The Catlins and Dunedin - from 19th December 2022
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THE CATLINS
So with a blue sky, the solo road trip commenced, and on Sienna’s first birthday, leaving with very fond farewells from the new family, I headed east…with a list of must visit locations collated from some of the previous days conversations.
Not quite in the Catlins, I first stopped at Fortrose, looking out over the estuary of the Mataura river…nearby were a couple taking in the sunshine outside a ubiquitous campervan. I wandered over, had an extended chat….and immediately recognised, OH NO!! A Yorkshireman ð and the first person I talk to!! We had quite a conversation, they also had a wedding and were visiting their son…decent guy until he described me as an honorary Yorkie, when he learnt I’d been based in Sheffield for 30 years….ðĪŽð
I continued until the Waipapa Lighthouse, erected after the sinking of SS Tararua in 1881 with the loss of 331 lives on reefs just offshore. A stunning coastline with my first glimpse of a sea lion across the bay in the distance.
Purposefully then visiting Curio Bay, to view and known for its petrified (fossilised) forest by silica, and there was no disappointment with the coastal cliff exposing the clearest detail of the Jurassic forest from 170 million years ago, when NZ was part of Gondwanaland. ðĶ
As I drove further into the Catlins, the weather unfortunately closed in, so I terminated the planned other visits for today, but instead went straight to my digs in Papatowai - being “greeted” by a less than welcoming host, something with Airbnb I’ve never experienced. The weather improved in the evening, so I went for a walk along the estuary of the Tahakopa, and back through the thick temperate rain forest, through the village which had very little to offer and only 40 permanent residents,although the Lost Gypsy Gallery was interesting, and that word again, quirky!
The following day firstly I visited the impressive McLean Falls, but then the less than impressive Tautuku estuary walkway and a short walk to Lake Wilkie.
In the afternoon I started off visiting known Sea Lion beaches, firstly Cannibal Beach, however no beasts present albeit a lovely location with the roaring ocean. From there I realised on gravel roads I could head to Nugget and Kaka Points….the most northerly on my hitlist and what became the highlight of the region. The coastline itself was very impressive, but the highlight was the jaw dropping precipitous headland with lighthouse (at 900m) of Nugget Point - together with wave thrashed cliffs and sapphire waters, and also plenty of wildlife with a colony of spoonbills, shags and two sets of Sea Lions including a mighty male. The view from the lighthouse was spectacular with a series of rock “nuggets” stretching out into the ocean, hence the name Nugget Point! ððĶ
On returning via Owaka I decided to visit Surat Bay Beach, and almost literally, as I passed onto the beach from the bush, stepped on some young sea lions, six in total, all sleeping including big daddy.
I awoke early the following day and this time hopped onto my bike, traversing a great circuit on mainly gravel roads that I had previously plotted. Although rather overcast, it was an excellent finale to the Catlins….saw more sea lions, a deer and a possum en route! ðī♂️ðĻ
Leaving my digs a day early, in agreement with my host, as I’d seen all I wanted, and I really wanted to get away from the guy himself…a first for me with Airbnb in years of using them, he clearly had some very recent issues, as contradicting his rather good reviews on his profile! ðĪŽðĪŽ
DUNEDIN
I headed to a smart suburb of Dunedin, called Waverley, high on a hill, on the start of the Otago Peninsula- in readiness for my pre booked tour at the Royal Albatross Centre the following morning. Greeted by a lovely welcoming lady, a complete contrast to my previous host. I visited the town centre in the early evening, which was quite nice, with a very strong Scottish influence, in fact the first European settlers included a relative of Robbie Burns and Dunedin itself is Gaelic for Edinburgh.
Walking around the Octagon and along such streets as St Andrew, Stuart, Moray and Princes Streets I eventually found Vogel Street the start of the arty trail, Dunedin is really on the international street art map….It was rather a flying visit, so hopefully I can revisit with more time one day. I finished off with a pint of English ale in the Duke of Wellington! ðš
By 1015 the following morning, and after a catch up with Donna and George in Mallorca, I’d driven the beautiful coast hugging road along the peninsula to the Albatross centre. There were about six pairs of Albatrosses- incubating for nearly three months, and the only known mainland breeding sites of these birds….their main concentration are on the Chatham Islands, a few thousand kilometres to the east in the Pacific Ocean. 
Leaving Dunedin via “the steepest road in the World”, Baldwin Street…19% average with a peak of 35% - my bike stayed in the car! ðĪŠðī♂️ðģ
Ninety minutes later and I’m back in Oamaru, and by six, with Becky and Sienna we walked around the Christmas market, where they left me to join Hamish and his friends for a Christmas beer in Scott’s Brewing House. ð ðŧ
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Baldwin Street - Steepest Residential Road in the World
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Kaka Point to Nugget Point |
McLean Falls |
Nugget Point |
Curio Bay |
 |  Swamp Harrier |
Kereru (NZ Wood Pigeon) |
Royal Spoonbill |
White Fronted Tern |
NZ Yellowhammer |
