Keith's Globe Trotting Blog: Oamaru

NZ Blog 2 - 14th Dec 2022

An initial period of local familiarisation, on foot, en velo, road trips and family sortees out.

Continually impressed with the town itself, learning much more by spending some time in the Whitestone City (museum) including an informative short film on the super rise (as big and as important as LA in the 1800s), it’s fall and then rise again…also discovering it had a huge reputation as Sin City, with more brothels than any other city, and alcohol awash. They worked hard, and played even harder clearly. 🍻🧛‍♀️😅

The decline was caused by three main influences: the price of wheat shot up in the UK; the demand for larger ships made the harbour relatively redundant and the final nail! Those God bothering Presbyterian types voted in a period of abolition that lasted from 1906 to 1960 - so who wanted to work and live in Oamaru? 🤷‍♂️

Then ultimately like the Phoenix it eventually arose, to become the diverse attraction it is today…where the legacy of the architecture and culture has unexpectedly contributed directly to that modern day draw.

My plan is to visit a town place of interest intermittently, in this period i visited the Grainstore Gallery - full to the rafters, literally, of modern art, so much so, it's difficult to know where to look to next. Many of the artefacts are the work of it's owner, Donna Demente, who I had a short chat with - heritage from Chorley, Lancs! See the photos below.

Interesting short video here on Oamaru => https://youtu.be/iapyWF0aTyE

Cycling: brought my much maligned cross bike out, with changeable wheels from road to off road (only 30mm though), and a good job too. Two things learnt very early, although a proportion of Oamaru is on a coastal plain, to get out and into the hinterland, there are some really steep climbs, and then in the hinterland it is generally rolling to very challenging, but also a large proportion of the roads are of gravel. So after only two rides, my road wheels were stored away, now for good! 🚵‍♂️

Discovering places such as Enfield, Kia Ora, Windsor and Five Forks….and also exploring the Alps 2 Ocean trail….where on writing this I’ve completed the sections from Oamaru up to Otematata (which is passed the point of the damned River Waitaki and the subsequent Lakes). For the latter, this is broaching the start of the mountain interior, with Mt Cook the highest at 12,218ft…although so far it has been immersed in clouds (yes Summer, is rather delayed in arriving). I have planned doing the full Alps 2 Ocean trail (over 300k from the base of Mt Cook) in mid January. The scenery although fairly good near the coast, certainly does escalate in drama the closer to the Alps one goes. ⛰⛰

Sight seeing: From very local walks starting at the Oamaru viewpoint along to Cape Wanbrow, where I saw baby Blue Penguins and a pup seal resting on the beach, amongst many seabirds…the coastline and views are quite delectable. 🐧🦭🌊

Travelling further south through Kakanui, to Moeraki and the furthest south yet, Shag Point. Although underwhelmed by the Moeraki Boulders attraction, more like pebbles! Photographing a few choice birds on the way, including the rather Cretaceous looking Spoonbills….and in Moeraki sampling the highly recommended Blue Cod, fresh from the local fisherman….it was very tasty! Although unfortunately the Fish Wife eaterie was closed, a must go to apparently.

Northwards, we had a family trip to Waimate, to an eco park (managed nature reserve with walks), viewing some stereotypical NZ birds: the NZ Harrier, the Tui, the Silvereye, the Bellbird and the Fantail.

And of course, last but not least, Sienna's first birthday party and BBQ (one week before the actual birthday, due to the below)....all her "buddies" were around in the morning, and the "grown ups" in the afto for the beers and meat fest! A good time was had by all....including of course the star of the show, especially with a tradition of "cake smashing" (apparently something babies on their first birthday have recorded!).

This towards the end of my third week, we are all visiting Hamish’s family near Invercargill in the “Deep South”, where I’ll be borrowing a car for the duration….so the more distanced explorations can really begin… 🥳

Starting with the Caitlins on the SE tip - unanimously recommended by the locals as a must visit, we will see! 🤷‍♂️😎👍