Friday, October 16, 2026

VAN TOUR EUROPE - Autumn 2026 - Stage 1 Belgium, Germany & Austria

 

Having had the campervan now for nearly two years, all trips have been UK based, for good reason...but encroaching on those darker evenings and cooler days, and no escape anymore to  Mallorca, AND no plans as yet to venture Down Under, I decided the time had come to venture south, very south! Dropping Linda off  at Heathrow who was on the journey to Australia,   followed by a weekend with Gaston, Le Tunnel was booked for Monday 12th October....let's go!!
 
 
Tooting that London - 8th to 12th October 2026 
 Dropped Linda off at Heathrow, followed by the quietest cross London roadtrip via Hampton Court, Kingston and Wimbledon, then weekend with Gaston in Tooting before heading south. Three beers on arrival with Gaston and felt awful the next day, went for walk on Tooting Common, read and cafe on Tooting Bec while G shouted at his work laptop!
Nick from uni, first time in 18 years at Granary Square on the Saturday, then walked into Camden along the canal, Camden Lock was predictably snided, so via G Maps found an escape pub nearby and eventually a cool known music bar in Camden itself...Italian at Tooting Bec - good to see Nick. Chilled on the Sunday, mainly watching footy....got overwhelmed late on, I guess travel anticipation, but awoke chilled, and set off into mainly the unknown, with an idea of a route, towards the Chunnell! Booked for 1215 but was awaiting boarding by 11, with bike rack affixed, not declared! 

 
Dinant - Belgium - 12th 13th October 
 
 
 
 All good via Le Tunnel, less than 4 hours to Dinant, initially east to Belgium, mainly motorway, no tolls! Overnight at local footy club, thanks to Park4Night app, high above the Meuse and town centre, but walked down...river cut through hence the dramatic cliffs, with interesting history from navigation, industry and key battles in both wars due to strategic river crossing. V quiet but it is October! And where the saxophone was invented, apparently! Classic historic setting with Citadal high above, and quaint cobbled market squares....

Couldnt resist a Leffe Blonde, "when in Belgium" - bit grey the following morning, rode the bike along the Meuse from La Rocher Bayard,  just for 50 mins but nice, as transport - further but track closed due to hunting, boar apparently...all good, quite pleasant, but nothing para mi, dramatic 😀 


 Cochem - Moselle Valley - Germany - 13th 14th October
 
Left Dinant for Cochem in the Moselle Valley, ESE from Dinant, but through grim conditions found myself driving through Luxembourg (four countries in 2 days!), the fastest route thanks to G Maps, but south then back NE, felt wrong as of course the priority is to head south. Spent an hour walking in Cochem, which is historic with amazing setting incl old squares and overlooking castles but packed with mainly old people! Cannot do tourist places and busy towns...drove van up and out into a forest and stayed the night there...better part day left here, 2 hour bike ride affectively mainly on cycle paths downstream then back down the otherside...36km - parked in small hamlet away from Cochem on the opposite bank- v pleasant but not outstanding...set off south on return to my next stop...this time checking the route G Maps had given me!
 
 
 

Heidelburg - Germany - 14th 15th October 
 
 
 
Next stop - 3 hours further south, crossed the Rhine and v industrial area, Mannheim. Dumped van 25 mins walk from old centre, along the river - another old city with ruined impressive castle, squares,  interesting architecture etc - had a beer taster rack, and a Bavarian meatloaf...thick ham, probably reconstituted....tried finding a bar that had  WiFi that actually worked, to transfer Egypt money - think I did but on snail speed local WiFi. Yes, historic, picturesque but doesn't excite me!  But do understand why tourists are drawn in...on the river Neckar, and the oldest German university town.
 

 

  

 

 

  

 

 

  

 
 Ehrwald - Garmisch - Belgium - 13th to 16th October 
 

 


  

 
A good 4 hour drive from Heidelberg, doesn't sound that long, but even with cruise control and all motorway to Fussen, I found it, again mentally tiring. But then the Alps came into view and it was afterall worthwhile! Technically in Austria I pulled over close to Ehrwald, to check out spots for the night, but soon it was obvious that there was an issue....exactly what the lady said to be in a Heidelberg bar, off grid camping in Austria especially is really restricted. So I checked out two local campsites, and the reviews were awful and the cost ridiculous....as it happens, continuing towards Garmisch, I entered Germany again, and found a spot I actually used for 2 nights....but there wasn't much to choose....anyhow at last I planned my next day, and the forecast was perfect for the mountain scenery.... 
 


 

 

  

 

  
Was at the Ehrwald gondola station by 9.30am when it was below 5C but clear blue sky...by later in the day was v warm....took the gondola up the mountain then did the well trodden hike to Seebensee, with classic Alpine surrounds, made more picturesque by the beautiful mountain lake...carried on up higher to the Coburger Huut for another lake and closer views of the mountains especially the majestic conical peak of Sonnenspitze with the Zugspitze massif to the north. Finished after 4pm so decided to stay the night in the same spot, in Germany just, as last night...to head south to Italy tomorrow....

 

  

 


  
 

 

 

Thursday, October 1, 2026

UK Excursions Away - April to September 2026



  


Some quality van escapes, typically midweek, to resolve my home cabin fever....not always possible to visit my preferred locations, carefully observing the weather forecasts (not they can be trusted), dictating having to delay or take a plan B or even C. The Lake District would (in the past) be my first choice, but firstly the weather was not always playing ball, and these days a combination of covid (Muggles, many discovering the beauty of the UK, enforced by overseas restrictions, and continuing to visit, and probably spreading the word) and effing social media....

 Instagram / TicToc / YouTube chasers, and "influencers" posting  reels, drawing even more visitors typically Gen Z but not exclusively, as if their "discoveries" are a recent phenomenon.

Ridiculous footage of queues on Snowdon (although be interesting how many caught the train) and wild camping carnage in the Lakes, together with snided hotspots...however, "hotspots" are fine, as it keeps the masses in one spot....best example has been Snowdon...while the moronic queues were taking place, I completed a number of really excellent hikes all within view of Snowdon and hardly saw 10 people on each of the walks...same with Scafell, 90+% of visitors to Wasdale would target the direct Scafell route, whereas I completed the classic Mosedale Horseshoe on the opposite side of the valley...in relative isolation.

Anyways enough of grumpy old git ramblings, here have been those excursions during this period:

 1. April 19th - Edale Loop with double scrambles - Peak Outdoor Adventures **

2.  April 23rd & 24th - Parlick & Fairsnape; Helvellyn via Swirrel Edge

3. May 5th & 6th Snowdonia:Arenig Fawr & The Welsh Matterhown (Cnicht)

4. May 26th & 27th Snowdonia: Carneddau Circuit & Moel Siabod 

5. June 29th - Snowdonia: Nantlle Ridge 

6. July 9th & 10th - Lake District: Mosedale Horseshoe; The Screes

7. August 25th to  28th - Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

8. ** Numerous Peak District hikes, solo and with groups

9. September 17th - Snowdon Horseshoe including Crib Goch 

 

April 19th - Edale Circuit with Peak Outdoor Adventures

 

Returning from the other side of the World in late March, and now with no racing, no Mallorca and diminishing interest even in riding my gravel bike, my social life was also subsequently greatly diminished...so researched hiking groups in the Peak District. Surprised to find so many options, most associated with the Ramblers Association (I joined the Sheffield 40s, but can hike with any group), but also other groups. As this hike was, an 18 miler from Edale, but surprisingly including two grade 1 scrambles up waterfalls: Crowden Clough and Red Brook.

 

  

 

 

  

 

 

 

  

 
Other local hikes included Alport Castle, a brilliant Hope Circuit including views above Wynatts Pass...a dredgingly tedious Dark Peak 18 miler from Langsett and a selection of other commendable hikes...must not take for granted what is on the doorstep! 

 

April 23rd & 24th - Partick & Fairsnape, Helvellyn round from Patterdale

 

  

 
Driving to the Lake District, I decided to plan a hike from Brock Bottom, retracing my old schoolboy training route on Parlick and Fairsnape, back via Beacon Fell. I used to occasionally go with my Dad to get some hills in my legs, with descending practice too down the steep return on Parlick. Also included Bleasdale where we had walked with the family as a boy.

 

 

 


 

  

 
Contininuing to the Lakes, I stayed over just down from Kirkstone Pass, and parked at my start point in Patterdale first thing....on a most perfect day, I scaled Helvellyn via Swirrel Edge and Catstycam, then after Helvellyn (which was not that busy) I walked the ridge edge to Dollywaggon Pike. The easiest route back would have been down Grisedale, but a long tedious return - the alternative was to scale Fairfield and onward to St Sunday Crag....the latter was more challenging than I expected with tiring legs...15 miles and just under 5000ft of ascent... 
 

May 5th & 6th Snowdonia:Arenig Fawr & The Welsh Matterhown (Cnicht)

 

  

 

 
Not being that familiar with Snowdonia, I used ChatGPT to research some possible hikes...Arenig Fawr was disappointing, it is located south of the main dramatic peaks...too much moorland and a tedious valley return....however Cricht was excellent...taking a route from Outdoor Active away from the standard path, it toured passed a number of jewel like tarns before the steeper ascent of the "Matterhorn"....
 

May 26th & 27th Snowdonia: Carneddau Circuit & Moel Siabod 

 

At the same time Snowdon was getting a ridiculous media slant on "queue jumping", from Lake Ogwen firstly I scaled the Carneddau peaks and hardly saw any people...a great circuit scaling the peaks of Dafydd and Llewelyn....but firstly Pen Yr Ole Wen via a short chimney, and descended with scrambles via Pen yr Helg Du....staying the night by Lake Mymbyr near Capel Curig, this second day scaled Moel Siabod, with a lengthy scramble " Daear Ddu "...really good ascent, and less people than yesterday! 

 

 

 

June 29th - Snowdonia: Nantlle Ridge 


  

 

Considered the best ridge walk in Snowdonia (arguably the Snowdon Horseshoe competes with that claim)...a point to point hike from Rhyd Ddu to Nebo over numerous peaks, with great views of Snowdon and the coastline...arrived at Nebo, realising I'd been there before whilst checking out an overnight stay (but phone signal was too low for Bayern Munich vs PSG!)...booked taxi back....great day! Except on removing my North Face boots noticed the soles were battered and part had come away....new boots on the way!

 

 July 9th & 10th - Lake District: Mosedale Horseshoe; The Screes

 

 

Staying at Stanton Bridge opposite a pub, as although there were some camping along Wast Water, it had the reputation of policing by the Nazi Trust rangers...only 20 mins from the head of Wast Water where there was free parking (as opposed to £10 in a Nazi Trust carpark)...I cheekily got an immediate lift along the road to my start point and ascended Yewbarrow, often excluded from the standard Horseshoe route, and understandable, as there were some decent rock scrambles....the temperature was well above the 30s in the valleys, and ascending Red Pike I was somewhat labouring, but knew once this was scaled, it was generally a ridge walk, well, not quite but the back had been broken....a fantastic Lakeland day, with super views of Steeple and Pillar Rock and right across the Lakes. The only downside was the direct descent off Kirk Fell to Wasdale Head....ridiculously steep with scree of all sizes, very slow progress.

 

  

 
From the van the next day, I planned a low level easy hike, but decided to scale The Screes or more specifically Whin Rigg, again very hot and a direct steep ascent....but once on top, it was mainly a steady descent (when news came through that Ann Widecombe had been murdered in her home) 

August 25th to  28th - Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

 


Been on my UK bucket list for a long time, only really visited properly when I was a very young boy with a holiday at Maenclochog, there was a cycle trip but the coastal parts were minimal and not on the locations I planned on this trip, where cycling was not permitted or often not possible. I targeted Cardigan, the closest to Sheffield, as a start point...this still took the best part of a 6 hour drive. The first two walks were point to point, and fortunately there were local bus services on hand...leaving the van at the destination point. The first section was from Poppit Sands to Newport....quite impressive but after several miles of fairly impressive cliff topography it did wear a little thin...the only really impressive part with caves and sea stacks was at Ceibwr...I did make the mistake of running parts of it, especially the downhill, and finished with very sore toes! The evening at Newport was very nice on the Nevern estuary with a stunning sunset.

I then moved west to Porthgain, a lovely harbour but a classic tourist honeypot, snided....I stayed 2 nights after asking in the pub if I could leave the van overnight, close enough to use their Wi-Fi too! The morning bus took me to Strumble Head, and headed back west to Portgain. This section was far more impressive with much more dramatic topography, with regularly spotting seal cubs and Mums....but again it was too long....irrespective of how impressive the cliffs were, it became quite monotonous...7 hours in total, but 4 would've been fine....especially too as approx 2000ft of ascent...

 

 

 


  

 

 

Another night in Portgain, heavy rain first thing the following morning, so slight delay to head to St Davids peninsula via the honeypot of the Blue Lagoon...I decided to try and contrive a circular route with a mix of coastline and hinterland, and not 7 hours! St Davids was perfect, there was a double peak, only several hundred feet high, but the highest on St Davids...setting off from the lovely Whitesands Bay, ascending immediately Carn Llidi, with excellent short scrambles up the double peak....more a small mountain, never based on height but character. Being the highest point, the 360 degree views were excellent. Cutting across to the coastline, some very similar topography was witnessed, before returning to a much busier Whitesands....but the variation added much more interest than the previous two days.

 

  


Heading south next along familiar (where we bike rode, up mental inclines!) small coastal lanes,  adjacent St Brides Bay, and finding an off grid spot just north of Broad Haven, in an elevated spot with a super sunset looking across the bay where I'd hiked earlier...

 The final planned hike was on the  Marloes Peninsula, including Marloes Sands and along the coast with nostalgic views of Skomer and Skokholm...passing many Choughs, a classic coastal cliff corvid....

 

 All done, pleased I've ticked it off....for coastal scenery, yes quite impressive, but lacks the variation and scenery of my favoured mountain explorations...I would not rush back...possibly next locations may be Devon and Cornwall, but more coastal scenery? 

 

September 17th - Snowdon Horseshoe via Crib Goch

 

  

 

 


The classic hike in Snowdonia, was always on my wishlist through my recent Snowdonia hikes, but purposefully waiting for a quieter period, as Snowdon and perhaps even the Crib get very busy. Taking an optimistic weather forecast, drove the 3 hours over to Capel Curig, just 20 mins or so from the hike start at Pen Y Pass. Only to find out the carpark was pre-booking and it was full anyway....and £25! No problem though, drive back down and a slight lengthening of the route....annoyingly the forecast was absolute bollocks...in fact almost the opposite to the forecast with cloudy conditions and on the Crib, strengthening winds and rain! But the scramble up was exhilarating and the arête outstanding...very few others on there...but on arriving on Snowdon, a packed train passed me, but as the weather deteriorated most of the selfie tourists were sheltering in the cafe....I walked straight passed the summit and finding the Watkins Path descended to a col before the climb up to Y Lliwedd, an impressive rocky ridge....the clouds had lifted across the valleys, although Snowdon itself stayed in cloud for the duration. Returning to my van for an hours rest, pleased I'd done the route, but would like to return in decent weather, especially on the Crib.