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Stage 14 - Hohe Tauern National Park - Austria - 16th October to….
So I left Salzburg in glorious sunshine, but the temperature had dropped, this was autumn now! Google Maps said nearly two hours to my destination, but almost immediately I was driving through Alpine landscapes, and immediately realised there was an awful lot to discover in Austria (combined with the Bavarian Alps), I flagged a future trip but much more dedicated to just this area…(country!).
Several tunnels later (I was heading due south towards Slovenia) but eventually took a diversion, as the plan was to scale and experience the Grosglocken Pass….the highest paved road pass in Austria, at 2504m. However at the toll gates (yes!) they were closed, unless you had snow chains! There had been heavy snow higher up, as witnessed by the live feed in the Information Centre…so about turn I went! Shame, the views are supposed to be brilliant from the tops. 🤷♂️
I was going to Mittersill anyway, and the advice at the IC was to head that way too….it seemed a thriving large village / small town….but the nearest camping was 12km away, down the valley at a very small place called Wald just down from Krimml.
The campsite looked closed, but a mobile home pulled up, with a nice German couple….who confirmed it was open, and although it was defo much colder the sun was shining and made a difference, in the sun! (For ref: €17, and a Euro back on the lukewarm shower!).
I went out on the bike, with some guidance from the lady at the reception. Which included a track off the valley through, yes a deep forest….the aim was to view the alpine skyline, above the forest. But I gave up! It went on and on, and at one point was 25%….and the temperature was 0C, so I returned to the valley, and followed the cycle trail signs to the Krimml Waterfalls, the highest in Austria.
However, they wouldn’t let me in, with a bike! And it was €8 - I saw the last part of the fall from the other bank, and from a distance….and yes, for a waterfall it looked impressive.
It was all downhill from there, literally, 500m back to camp! By which time the sun was going down, as was the temperature! Even the friggin shower was cold, but the welcome from my German neighbours was warm…they invited me to join them for a beer! Probably in their 70s, the following morning they were cycling up the old road above the valley, dumping their bikes then hiking to a nearby lofty peak. They told me they’d done the same in Slovenia, up Triglav the highest mountain, including a necessary refuge sleepover….well impressed!
I struggled but eventually found a very local restaurant in a nearby village run by an elderly couple, with no English…and some interesting German music on the radio! I chose another local dish, and yes more dumplings and sauerkraut with pork again, I think….and applestrudel again!
Returning to my pitch, I stayed in the car a while because it really was cold! While I completed my social media etc gubbins….and fvck it was cold, a seriously clear star lit sky was a bonus, but it ended there…my night was very restless, it was soooo cold!
There was frost everywhere, of course, the following morning….and I had no hesitation in deciding not to do a second night! Although once I got sorted in all my gear, and the sun started to shine, breakie was quite nice….it was very clear again….but cold. I had a lovely chat with Becky….then set off towards Innsbruck via the old road that climbed over 700m above the valley.
I decidedly had an end of trip head on, I wasn’t as enthused about finding cycle routes nor hiking….but happy to car trip and site see….bloody tourist. As stated before I would really like to return and spend much more time in this region!
Becky said I must visit Innsbruck….but that’s a city, and I don’t get enthused by them….unless they are special…🤷♂️
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