Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Isle of Lewis & Harris

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DAY 14  Isle of Harris
Saturday 17th May

Sadly I guess, I found a parking spot immediately and watched the FA Cup Final (Palace 1-0 City) and then set off on the "main road" as it hugged the west side. Immediately my heart had an extra beat after the general lack of character on Uist. Significant mountain backdrop, rugged coastal scenery, interspersed with the most stunning white sandy bays...one after the other: Scarista,  Horgabost,  Seilebost,  and Luskentyre.  The latter considered one of the better ones...it's hard to separate them though...there was no 4G at Luskentyre (I'm a fussy offgridder now!) So drove all the way back around to where I'd come from, at a spot I'd clocked on the way out..Surprisingly it was still vacant...cracking spot, high up above the coast with amazing views.

 

DAY 15 Isle of Harris
Sunday 18th May

I drove back down to Leverburgh, then headed for the Golden Road...the east side single track that navigates across the very rocky and windy terrain, passing loch after loch...with seals a plenty. I stopped a couple of times, but the driving and such a demanding journey was tiring, and to be honest, as rugged as the scenery was, it never really changed. I'm not sure how long I lasted on the road, but I cut out a final loop...enough was enough! One observation similar to that on Uist...I hardly saw any duck life on any of the lochs, my theory on Uist was that the interior lochans may be very acidic, so not much of an ecosystem to support..but a number of the lochs I passed on this road were sea lochs, and still no wildlife at all...except the seals!

Occasionally on this tour, I choose to have a "chill out day"...more driving and sight seeing (with intentions of relaxing and reading), but I can only drive for so long, it tires me out...this was one of those days, and I needed to do something more active than just driving...although anyone would get worn out on the Golden Road.

It was early afternoon, and I considered climbing the highest mountain on the Outer Hebrides, Clisham,  but first I wanted to tick off another beach, Hushinish. The roads didn't improve, full concentration required on the road to Hushinish, similar to the Golden Road, and some 15 plus miles and I had to come back...just to tick off a must see beach!

 Eventually arriving above the beach, and Wow! This was like the Caribbean, from the white sand to the turquoise waters...quite stunning. I was lucky to get a last parking spot, and I had to go for a closer inspection...the sky was blue, and the sun was quite warm (about 19C)...I walked around the bay, and there appeared a few smaller beaches interspersed with rocky platforms. There was a slight edge to a NE wind, so I positioned myself out of the wind, and finally read my book! The mountain hike was pushed back, as I wandered further around the bay, and eventually over a shallow ridge to look across the sea on the otherside...quite breathtaking.

I decided to stay the night, with occasional sortees out onto the beach and above it to get that photo...at one point I was the only person on the beach. Finally relaxing in the van, the wind really ramped up...blowing the sand horizontal and even rocking the van...and meanwhile I planned my ascent of Clisham, thinking that if it's this windy at sea level, what on earth will it be like at 2000ft!

DAY 16 Isle of Harris
Monday 19th May

There was no need to worry, the wind had eased and it was another glorious morning. I left Hushnish, and this time the return navigation along the single track didn't seem as arduous as yesterday. I found a Clisham circular route on Komoot (which was a big mistake) and soon parked up and was off and upwards. The estimated time for the hike was 5-6 hours, and I was walking before 10am...so all good. The hike was really magnificent, better than I had envisaged. From sea level the mountains were quite inviting, but close up they were much more dramatic looking...with severe cliffs and challenging edges...but probably too many big scree fields which had to be  negotiated carefully, mainly on the descent. 

Most people seemed to be hiking the opposite way, and I soon discovered that it was part of a classic Hebridean horseshoe as documented on WalkHighlands, a wonderful site, detailing numerous challenges all over the Highlands...but as a horseshoe, not a round!
The views from the tops were memorable, and although not many other folk were up there I had some good chats...although one was tinged with sadness: a guy and his wife always wanted to visit the Hebrides, but their booking was cancelled because of Covid, but they retained the booking and changed the dates...but his wife died this last year, and he'd been caring for her...but in her memory he decided to continue with the trip! How sad is that...2 cottages too, one in Tarbet and one further north in Lewis, all on his own, with those memories I guess including, what should have been 😢

On the descent a bog monster attempted to devour me, sinking down above my knees without warning...it made me apprehensive after, and I wondered how this place would be without a rain drought!

Eventually I got back down to the main road, but immediately realised I was a good 6km from my van, and I didn't fancy walking...thumb out, and within 5 mins I got a lift back to my van!

On checking the route later, I discovered that the horseshoe route differed slightly in that the carpark I should have used and the return to the main road were only 500m apart...I'll know next time!

Anyway, all told, it was a 7 plus hour hike, a real full dayer, but worth it...so I decided to reward myself to a pub meal, somewhere....using Google Maps I checked out the only nearby restaurants in Tarbet and on the Isle of Scarpay, but they were quite upmarket fish restaurants... I just wanted some basic pub grub...but there weren't any...so it was noodles and "dog food" (tinned mince and onions for example) again, but I did find a good spot by Loch Laxadale on the return to Tarbet from Scarpay...and by heck, that night the wind was even stronger....as I watched the footy snugly  inside my van...there was suddenly a a knock knock knock knock on the door, and out on the road were a batch of LWB vans each with a car on a trailer...at the door was a young woman they'd obviously volunteered to ask me if I could move so they could all fit on my parking spot....cheek! I stayed!

 DAY 17 Isle of Harris / Lewis

Tuesday 20th May

I decided it was about time for a "Full Scottish", but the nearby cafe in Tarbet was not open until 1030am, so I took my time in the van, and also did a saunter around the loch...I hit Tarbet at about 1010, just in time to use the "utilities", and the water supply...all identified by an app called simply Location, specifically for vans and motorhomes...has all sorts on there from off gridding locations to water, loos, fuel,  cafes etc very useful!

The Full Scottish went down very well, but they'd run out of haggis! Oh no!! I set off, not 100% sure where to, but on my ChatGPT advised itinerary offered some sea stacks in Lewis on the west coast listed for tomorrow...a good 90 minutes drive, but I had nowhere else to go!

These were the Mangersta Stacks, see the photos, I didn't expect this...they really impacted me....for a while I was the only person on the cliff tops, I walked the whole stretch around to a headland, viewing the stacks from differing angles. Occasionally sitting on the cliff edge just mesmerised by these wonders of nature...the stacks alone were amazing, but with the backdrop of the ocean, cliffs, mountains and even two large caves on the opposite headland.

It was worth the 90 minute drive! Nearby too, not to be overlooked, were the Uig Sands...another white sandy beach, but huge...I thought of Southport whilst there...although the Ribble estuary is a poor comparison!

I got that "driving too much" syndrome again, even with the magnificent sea stacks...and decided tomorrow I must look to climb the highest mountain on Lewis...Mealaisbhal and according to WalkHighlands the direct out and back route started just little south of the sea stacks.

So I needed to find an off grid location for the night, and in this vicinity,  and NOT a campsite..."one doesn't do campsites" anymore! Purrrfect, above Reef Bay. Ace view, white sands, rugged backdrop, hill top....but no 4G! As stated earlier, I've become very fussy re my locations...so off on a search I continued, but not a lot of places left...Next area would be a 30 min drive back for tomorrow's walk....Kneep Bay campsite came into view, but just above it was a space for parking, looking down on the bay's expanse and the campsite...but a parked car had obscured the "No Overnight Camping" sign...oh well, on this occasion the campsite.

It was actually quite a nice one, £20 (for 2 people, I hate that 😑) and as I didn't need the electric hookup, I picked my spot literally right on the beach edge! After a walk and a read, at last, I settled in for the night....and as it was a campsite I put my roof top up, then regretted it...I'd got so accustomed to not having it, I felt I'd lost the cosiness, so I decided after 45 mins to pull it back down.

At least I tried, for some reason, I couldn't get all the material inside the front lip, eventually I managed to close it, but it wasn't satisfactory, and was a little concerned, so, as I write this, I must tidy tomorrow (I meant to do it today but forgot!)....mental note to self!

The wind got up again overnight...there felt a change in the weather oncoming...

DAY 18 Isle of Lewis
Wednesday 20th May

Another clear sky, but definitely cooler....which reminds me. I had a morning pattern: heater on whilst still wrapped up....typically the thermostat was about 12C first thing...but the heater soon took it to a nice temperature...coffee on...and then a body wash (usually, although I had a shower at the campsite (£1 for 3 mins!))...v refreshing with my camping soap pads...bed put away...then another coffee with a porridge (what else!) And ready for the day...go go!

I read the detail on WalkHighlands for my proposed walk, and I couldn't get excited. A 20 min drive to the start point was OK...but an out and back route but with substantial bog...then I read about another closer lower level walk with diverse scenery but with enough altitude to get excellent coastal and mountain views...that'll do!

Parking adjacent a local school, the kids were playing out...I pondered  the lifestyle of children growing up in this environment, and after throwing an escaped football to a teacher ('thanks, but I'd get it but I'm the only one on duty today so cannot leave the kids!")...I set off, also admiring a set of large chess pieces apparently discovered under the sand dunes! From the 12th century,  one piece was sold for £735,000 and most are held in the British Museum: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_chessmen

The walk was as good as described, but plentiful bog trotting, goodness knows what these bogs are like after normal rain or snow melt 😳

Don't laugh, but navigation was an issue. Few excuses...laws in Scotland are very open on access, in fact it is open access...so the OS maps don't regularly have standard footpath markings...so Komoot for example struggles to route plan, as it requires the underlying source maps to have access paths to work....you can override but it cannot help you....also, (even if I had a silva compass) I purposefully downloaded the appropriate OS maps to my phone, but for some reason when out of signal, they don't upload...I must investigate....

So after the first and highest peak, topped with all sorts of radar and receivers (including air traffic control apparently) on Forsnabhal and I knew the next tangible location was a tarn or lochan,  as they are called in Scotland...but the wrong one!

It didn't matter, it was a small jewel amongst the heather and bog...I sat there for a while, totally alone...and pondered across the waters, and had my first ham, brie and cranberry wrap...delish!

Soon back on track, the larger intended lochan soon came into view...such a wonderful day and I didn't care about the extended route.

Descending towards coast level, Reef Bay came into view (the previous perfect off grid location but without 4G)....an excellent viewpoint...I reached for my binoculars as some ravens were circling around....aaagh!

But where were they??? Shit, I'd not got them, I must have left them at the first lochan when I got my first wrap out, but that by now was some distance back. What should I do: write off £400 binoculars or walk back?

I walked all the way back, quite philosophical, it was a glorious day, an easy walk, and I'd see the vistas from a different perspective....so I told myself!

And there they were, sat on a rock behind where I'd been sat...I apologised to them (I really did) and trudged back to reset my hike....so a 16km hike, 6km more than the plan!
So, that was Lewis and Skye, my ferry booked was at 7am tomorrow, but I knew there was one at 10pm tonight from Stornoway, so in that direction I set...via a scenic alternative loop in order to check out the mid to north part of Lewis. I'd heard and researched it was very bleak with lots of lochans, and it was....it did actually remind me of swathes of Yorkshire on my recent trip...

Parking right in the heart of the small town, I discovered a curry house (nice) watched the appalling first half of the Europa Cup final  between  Spurs and Man Utd, then 45 mins prior to sail time went to join the throngs embarking on the ferry and hoped I could be squeezed on...

There was no one there! The late ferry it materialised is specifically the commercial freight ferry for HGVs etc, so Joe Public cannot book in advance...and as most of the holiday makers have restricted time, they generally pre book those that are available for the public. So there was my van, one car and not many HGVs. And as this is a significant crossing (near 3 hours) it's a pretty sizeable ferry....so a little surreal with no one hardly on the boat! And all the HGV boys were finding quiet corners to get a snooze....

Just finished writing this, it's 0046am and we have just docked!

Perfect timing, and back on the mainland....with no definite plans except possible catchup with Stevie (met in Mull) in Glencoe and an old Blackpool pal, Pete, who lives at Loch Crennan....wherever that is.....anyhow I need somewhere to kip....

And that was the Islands, now an explore heading south from Ullapool...I must ask ChatGPT the places of interest!

Scotland Tour - May 2025 - North & South Uist

 DAY 12 South Uist

Thursday 15th May
So, a 90 minute ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy. The plan was was to drive all the way south then work my way north, as my ferry to Lewis was from Bernaray in the far north. It wasn't a great initial impression, practically all of the landscape throughout the journey was featureless. Flat marshland with a myriad of lochans, with hardly a sign of wildlife on them (later realising that they were probably quite acidic and thus lifeless?). 

I eventually got to Lochboisdale, looking for a park up, but I have certain criteria now with my offgridding! Using Park4Night there were a couple of spots, incredulously next to a pub in a coastal remote spot only 10 mins away.   

I discovered, later after a few chats, this is why people generally love Uist. A glorious beach welcomed me, and a perfect spot, facing west, to look forward to another stunning sunset in the practically cloudless sky. I wandered slowly along the beach and rocky platforms towards the pub (Polochar Inn), and it was rather nice.

After gorging on a venison burger washed down with 2 pints of Skye Red, I wandered back to the van. Only to discover a bloody big motorhome had somehow squeezed past me, and parked up fairly close up, when there was plenty of space...knobs. It didn't obstruct my sunset view, eventually capturing one of my favourite photos so far, post sunset the sky due west was a mixture of reds and pinks, with a nearby rock platform occupied by a flock of oystercatchers...good photo for me anyway, have a butchers above.

DAY 13 South Uist
Friday 16th May

More chats on a repeat peruse along the coast in the morning, encouraged me to have a rare very easy cycle an hour north along the coast, to inspect the continuum of white sands, dunes and rocky platforms. It was gorgeous...some gratuitous birding and photography...seeing certain wader birds in their summer coats was a joy, such as dunlin and sanderlings....I returned with a loop slightly inland, but this confirmed it was the coast that is the clear attraction.

The women who encouraged me to inspect that coastline, also said I must at least visit the closest of two islands that were due south of S Uist. Eriskay was connected by a causeway, and on arrival I understood why. More character land wise, but a gem of a beach and view...I sat above the beach, again decrying I hadn't packed any swim shorts! 

Having only 2 full days on Uist I headed north. The west side are where the beaches are, the east side is more rugged, I did a couple of sortees east...but a priority was Loch Druidbeg, so I headed there and planned this to be my second stayover spot, hopefully viewing the White Tailed Eagles, apparently where they bred. The omens were good, as one flew over as I drove in that direction, but alas I never saw one again...in fact again, there wasn't much to see right across the Loch.

  A fantastic spot though, with a backdrop of really the only hill range, the highest point on Uist, Ben Mhor at about 1900ft...I was planning on hiking it, but the estimated hike time was several hours with lots of cross country bog!

I parked right next to the RSPB trailer, where I later learnt every Tuesday at 9.30am there is a guided viewing, and they would know exactly where to go and view those Eagles!

DAY 14 Uist
Saturday 17th May

Great spot overnight, so remote, and a rare mountain backdrop on Uist, but no sight of a confounded eagle!

I moved onwards northwards, and made a couple of eastward inspections, but nothing to warm the heart, and always had to return the same way. The RSPB reserve on the coast at Balranald was next, firstly mistakenly going to a small campsite, where the lady refused me to conduct a water top up! 

 

There were a couple from Wigan sat on the small cliff top bird watching, but said it was super quiet...so soon I continued my journey north, crossing more causeways and across Benbecula.

Closer to Bernaray I'd passed a tempting hill with a rocky helmet, with no rights of way on the OS map but a track of sorts leading away from the road, I asked a local if I could cut across his field, and off I went, this was Crogearraidh, barely 600ft, but stood aloft the flatlands with views right across the island. Again the beach and small bay on the coast was exquisite..

Before crossing the final causeway to Bernaray I did another lengthy eastward explore, but returned immediately, I was struggling now to fill the day...the days have a good 18 hours of daylight, it was only 3pm, and wondered how I could fill the the next 6 plus hours?

So across the causeway to Bernaray and immediately I saw the queue for the ferry to Harris, but my ferry booking was 8.30am the next day. A must visit as advised was the Bernaray West Beach, so 10 mins further on I parked up, and could see another impressive beach and dunes...but I had 6 hours to kill, and by now I really needed more than beach views. Across the strait I could see the mountains of Harris...a quick check on the ferry app, and the immediate one was due to leave in 20 mins! I span around and rushed to the ferry, well, I tried...a friggin motorhome was blocking my way at less than 20mph. Suffice to say, the ferry hadn't loaded up, so I joined a 2 van queue in lane 3, the standby lane...and just literally they squeezed me on so close to the ramp, I worried how close it would get to the van when they raised it! 50 mins later I drove off the ferry into Leverburgh, I parked up immediately, the FA Cup final had literally just kicked off!
  

Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Isle of Skye

DAY 7 - Mull to Skye

Saturday 10th May

 I didn't rush in the morning. I went via the earlier campsite to recover a towel, then the loos in the first village (see, no worries...one of my concerns re off grid, although I do have an emergency bucket and super strong bin liners!).

I tootled to the ferry, not knowing the time table,  as my ticket I could catch any ferry. Fluked perfect timing as the vehicles were literally embarking as I arrived, and I just fitted on...over to Lochaline on the mainland and then a 90 min slow drive to Mallaig for the Skye ferry.

 All very pleasant, Mallaig was rather busy with mainly tourists...and I failed in getting some cheap footwear for my waterfall pool bathing...the temperature is no issue, it's the stones under barefeet!

Last on the ferry at Fishnish, but first off at Mallaig. I chatted with a young chef who was returning to work on Skye, but interrupted by my van alarm going off (and multiple other vehicles) clearly caused by the ferry's vibration...at least I know it works!

I'd got some tips from my Mull contacts on where to start my Skye journey. It wasn't going dark until nearly 10pm, so no rush, the plan was to start south and work my way up, as the plan was to catch the Uig ferry to North Uist, eventually!

Firstly I went to Elgol, SE Skye, a tiny port, at the end of a fairly long single track road (as most are)...which included a journey around the shores of Loch Slapin where I'd clocked numerous off grid possibilities, and that is where I returned.

With views to die for, but with no phone signal (and my OS map download attempts had failed) I had no idea what mountains i was surrounded by...brill setting though with a handful of vans scattered but not too many, and a few tents. This location was on the route of the Skye Trail, a lengthy backpacking route. Nearby too, were some small waterfalls and pools, perfecto!

DAY 8 Skye
Sunday 11th May
The plan was to have a chill day after the Ben More ascent, my quads were complaining a little, mainly from the arduous descent off Ben More. With no signal, I noticed on my road map there were some waterfalls on a walk just across the Loch, so I decided to head over there...
The falls were heading in the direction of the impressive peaks I'd viewed from the van overnight...the draw of them was predictable...still with no signal, I spoke to a couple of folk on the way down, and learnt that it was a "ronny" called Bla Bleinn (I think pronounced Blathin?)...the main ascent was quite tough, lots of scree, very steep...but the scenery became increasingly awesome, in fact I'd rarely seen such dramatic mountain scape.

 

At the top, with crazy views across to the Cuillin ridge, I was firstly alone, then a young Dutch couple arrived but from the peak opposite, which I fancied doing, to make at least part of the route non repeatable. But they didnt hesitate in advising me not too, due to a very exposed 40m or so....soon, a Scottish guy, Stevie arrived...

We discussed whether to do the loop, and decided to...his reasoning was, what do the Dutch know about mountains?!

It was exposed, very much so, but carefully we navigated across it, however in a different way, worse was a lengthy steep scree down to a col...slowly and carefully and with the aid of one of Stevie's sticks we made it..and all the way back to the loch. We exchanged numbers, and as Stevie was based in Glencoe there was a possibility we may hook up as I pass through....

We hit the loch quite late, at about 7pm, when suddenly a sea fog / cloud rolled in over the massif...quite spectacular,  and down just in time.

 

 DAY 9 Skye
Monday 12th May
Sleeping in a layby south of Sligachan...I planned to have a chillout day with easy walks and sight seeing...I half heartedly did the Sligachan Falls...and Sligachan itself was swamped with tourists, taking multiple photos of anything and everything! 

 

All except a nearby statue celebrating the two pioneers who first navigated the Cuillin edge.

I really needed to relax today, I was very tired...grabbing a coffee and cake in Carbost, right opposite the Talisker whisky distillery and sat on the grass behind the coffee place and read my book. But soon sat with a young Irish girl who now lived in Edinburgh, and packed in being a barrister, to enjoy her love of mountaineering! She wrote on my phone 3 intro Munros on the Cuillin ridge, a choice for tomorrow's hike...

Not far away I discovered a cracking little spot, by a small harbour and community, with an evening to remember as the sun set directly across the sea, while seals swam nearby disinterested! This was Portnalong Pier, tremendous spot, the thought now of using a campsite is getting further and further removed...this is true liberation! Just, I decided to swing my van sidewards to get the best views, in agreement with a couple of off gridders, however my rear wheels sank into what was deep gravel...two pushing and some worry we weren't winning, when suddenly "she" (I haven't got a name yet, was going to be Tranny but thought otherwise!) got a grip and grovelled out! Phew!

 

Strategically placing the van at the top and side of the slipway, no way was I reversing back onto that gravel, an advantage of having a small van, proved numerous other times too...

A seal appeared in the small harbour, and the evening sunset was scintillating!

 

A guy nearby caught me including the van with the sunset, and laughed, although he admitted photoing his motorbike with strategic mountain backdrop, I argued that was more sad, slightly!

 DAY 10 Skye
Tuesday 13th May
So the Cuiilins today. Last night I sent Stevie 3 options, with a favourite starting from the Fairy Pools...Stevie checked the detail, and advised that the hardest scramble was a grade 2 (out of 3). The Munro was Bruach na Frithe.

I was at the FP carpark quite early and already it was v busy...a tourist hotspot.
The Fairy Pools are a sequence of waterfalls with the backdrop of part of the Cuillin edge...quite pretty, but must be better when it has been normally rainy, another steamer of a day though today, in fact I spent the whole day in a T shirt...

 

As it materialised the ascent (and descent) was easier than Bla Bleinn, and some scrambling but never a Grade 2. Perhaps in this case it's what you make it, as there were easier walking routes just below the ridge, I guess one could choose to navigate the edge. Ascending I spent most of the time with two girls, and their dogs...with just one of them to the top, as the other did worry when we did hit some rocky scrambles (unfortunately I forgot their names).

The views of course were dramatic and magnificent, on a perfect day. I sat with two old boys, ex rock climbers, who knew all the different peaks we were looking at, even in the distance on the mainland.

The only negative were a group of young Americans fvcking about with their Instagram priorities...really ruining the kharma...but soon 

they left, and suddenly you could hear a pin drop...we sat there for a good period of time, marvelling at the extraordinarily vistas before setting off down a different edge, to make a round trip of it.

 

I found a secluded waterfall near the carpark and had a lovely dip. Great day...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 DAY 11 Skye

Wednesday 14th May

My plan was to get a ferry to North Uist, but wanted to visit the Old Man of Storr first just north of Portree...so I headed north, finding a roadside recess with a loch view and the Old Man. Looked more like contemporary art v impressive.
By 9am I was at the Storr carpark, and again this was more busy than I'd seen before on Skye..with a perpetual stream of bodies ascending to the main view point. It was worth it  though, the rock structure was quite morphologically impressive, so unique and cathedral like!

After the Viewpoint, I'd planned to climb much higher above the imposing cliffs to the Storr summit...within 200m of leaving the viewpoint path, I was in complete isolation...bliss!

It was an easy ascent with a steady ridge walk to reach the summit...sat there was Callum, a copper and quality rugby player from Montrose...he was going back the same way, but I invited him on my Komoot circular route, so off we set...main descent down a sharp very narrow water course, and soon we were at the carpark, saying our farewells.

Thought I'd better book my ferry, only to discover there was no availability for days! So I called direct...my vehicle was downsized on their system  from a motor home to a campervan (cannot do online) and the nice lady got me a spot but tomorrow! And advised to complete the two other ferries required to Harris and finally back to the mainland at Ullapool. All booked with exact ferry times now, for £150.

Popping down to Portree to get ripped off by the local Co-Op (everything is expensive, and also not a great choice after a cyber attack!). I decided to head back north passed the Old Man...with occasional view point stops until I came to the top of the island, heading closer to my ferry port, Uig.

Another stunning find to stay over, facing exactly due West with yet another stunner of a sunset, over the top of Uist, my destination for tomorrow.

 

The next morning, I visited another tourist trap, the Fairy Gardens....just a series of isolated small stacks..Killed 90 mins,  before heading down into Uig to catch the ferry to Lochmaddy, North Uist.

   

I went for a coffee with a guy who was in a van in front of me...my sort of age...told me he had prostate cancer, and had just finished chemotherapy., he was told to rest but decided to get out in his van...at times he didn't seem too well...just makes you think!  

To the ferry we went....

North Uist and South Uist here we come!