ANDALUSIA STAGE 5 - RONDA

Stage 5: Ronda, another example of a Pueblo Blanco, is built over and known for a large gorge dividing the town. Located in the Sierras, between Las Nieves and Grazela mountain ranges…a really amazing backdrop.

Typically full of history, a fortification from the Romans to the Moors to the Iberians….but visitors all flock to the Puente Nuevo - the New Bridge over the canyon that divides the old and new towns, with a 120m drop to the river below…designed and built by the same architect, who also built the Plaza de Toros, the bullring….and apparently where bull fighting started. Bulls were used to advance the skill of the soldiers on horseback, which became a spectator “sport”.

In the first rains of the journey, I toured the bull ring and museum, rather hypocritically as I’d defo vote to ban….was interesting though and it is part of their culture / history I suppose.

Close to the bullring was the Puente Nuevo, and how iconic….seen many times on photographs, and it didn’t disappoint…quite an engineering feat, difficult to take your eyes off it…You can imagine back in the day, “hey boys, I’ve got a job for you, can you build a bridge across that gorge?” What boss, seriously? You friggin joking….😂🤷‍♂️ The boys completed it 42 years later in 1793.

Looking over the bridge, one could see access to the gorge bottom, with not many takers…easy escape from the masses, off I went……it was lovely, nicer in isolation and better views.

In the evening, I attended a Spanish guitar recital….apparently going through several styles from baroque to flamenco….but as amazing as he was, it all sounded similar to my untrained ear…🤷‍♂️😊 Really good though, the man could really finger pluck, and with so much passion…

Less than an hour to the east is El Caminito del Rey (the short hike of the king)…once tagged the World’s most dangerous hike and it possibly was….too many people lost their lives, so access was banned, and eventually 4 plus million was spent on it, to reopen as a tourist hotspot. Bit disappointing for me, nothing dangerous at all about it, series of boardwalks through the canyons…very touristy, ok you need a head for heights…Although the scenery was mind blowing….I had to join an organised group, but as soon as the young guide started off with, “Are you all feeling brave today? “ , I can’t hear you, I said, are you all…..oh shut the f*** up! The Grumpy old git, whispered under his breath, so I stayed 30m behind on the whole walk, to take in the environment and have my own space (karma man! ).

Returning to Ronda, I justifiably broke my 2 night rule….an advantage of posting these, was that an old University pal was also in town and had seen my locations on FB. I hadn’t seen Eve, since the early 80s, now living in the USA, we had a great night of recollections, from days of old, although it was a little one sided, as I couldn’t remember most of the anecdotes….hardly surprising from my main university extra curricular activity….🍻🍻🍻 Really lovely evening with Eve and her hubby John, and thanks for the dinner (reyt posh too!).

Up early the following morning, to wizz over to Sevilla airport to collect a mystery pal, who was joining me for a few days in Sevilla….but who is it? 🤷‍♂️😊👍

ANDALUSIA STAGE 4 - TARIFA & GIBRALTAR

 

Stage 4: So, Tarifa…the furthest point south in Europe, and the closest point to Morocco, which was clearly visible. Is the Kite surfing capital due to two winds, the Poniente and the Levante - although, and fortunately for me, there was little wind, although I’m sure the sight of 100s of kite surfers would have been quite cool.

Not a particularly large place, but with an old quarter, with hidden little squares with bars and eateries…very nice, and with that cool surfer vibe….to the west, the stunningly beautiful sandy surfers beach, on the Atlantic….and to the east the more rugged coastline of Parque Natural de Estrecho, on the Mediterranean.

In the morning, I had a wander, including walking the causeway to the Isla de las 

Palomas, as far south as I could, this technically, is the most southerly point in Europe…and of course, I had to message the kids and tell them that at that point in time I was the most southern person in Europe! 😂

However, it backfired, soon after, there was an unexpected impact: I was desperate for a cool beer, but when I ordered it, the barman would only serve me shandy! 😂😜 (well I laughed when I wrote this 🤭).

I didn’t really go for a beer, I turned to the long surf beach and walked in the ebb…amazing (with headphones again: queue, Melt by Leftfield 🥰)…quite heavenly, solitudinal too….eventually I cut back to the mainland for a coffee and bite to eat…

All very quiet, nicely off season, but got chatting to a Becca….English with VG Spanish…had quite a chat, she was also exploring Andalusia, and had been living recently on the west coast of Mexico….I asked her where her home or base was, her response was, “I’m a nomad” 🙌 her next target was Guatemala, although she worked, as a legal advisor to a UK based housing association, but clearly remotely, very remotely! We discussed the advantages of travelling alone, which I was very fast discovering, and moreso travelling alone as a woman….interesting stuff….another one I envied!

In the afternoon I went for a short hike, above the cliffs into the Parque Natural, heading east….returned in almost darkness, forgot the sunset was 7 and not 8pm! Also in the same boat was a young Swede, Victor….barely 30….a kite surfing instructor, whose immediate ambition was to kite surf instruct around the World….why not! We went for eats together, and I tried the local delicacy, fresh Red Tuna… migrates, through the Straits…wowser, it was so good!

I left the following day, I loved Tarifa, but then juggled two options, Check out Gibraltar or a day trip to Tangiers….I decided if I visited Morocco, I need to do it properly over time….so decided on the former.

But I couldn’t get excited, why visit, a literal little England, when I’m exploring Andalusia? A one off…to be ticked off was the conclusion. And that’s all it will ever be, as expected, “Main Street” was as stereotypically English as possible, from Mothercare to Fish n Chips to Carling to English pubs to PG tips etc More interesting was getting the cable car to the top of The Rock, greeted immediately by the monkeys; but also great views. I walked down via some WW2 tunnels - reaching back to Main Street, I scampered directly back to Spain as quick as possible! Ticked off ✅ never to return!

Conversely my next destination was always high on my list, heading directly into the interior, towards the mountains with ever increasing spectacular scenery…Ronda here I come, now, I was very excited, I love my mountains 👍🥰

ANDALUSIA STAGE 3 - CADIZ TO TARIFA JOURNEY

Stage 3: With Esther’s itinerary in hand, the journey to Tarifa commenced...selecting just three of her suggestions for this blog from all the visits, giving a nice contrast too…

First was Parque Natural Bahia de Cadiz. A wetland that is wet! Cadiz is surrounded by wetland or “marismas” (marshes) - I chose those adjacent to the urban area of San Fernando, south of Cadiz.

A really extensive area, marshes with raised causeways, arrived and packed out with parked cars….as the area used for recreation: walking, jogging, cycling and even the occasional horse rider, but so huge, sparse in encounters….and in the middle, all the nature. Saw the flamingoes immediately, and eventually got to the nearest point where I could nearly reach out….I never get bored with looking at them, ugly and beautiful….plenty of other “stuff” too…nature fulfilment, a real mental reset, if it were ever needed 🥰

Quickly moving on and up! Andalusia is well known for Los Pueblos Blancos….the white towns…In the mountains the compact villages are whitewashed, contrasting with beautifully coloured flowers, the brown mountain backdrop and the almost constant blue sky - make them stunning especially from a distance. My pueblo was Vejer de la Frontera - not just for the El Pueblo Blanco but also with a labyrinth of historical twisting streets, ubiquitous castle and some lovely squares and cafes….worth the visit.

Dropping back to the coast and closer towards Tarifa, the terrain was changing. From the flatlands and marismas of further north, I was gradually driving into more hilly terrain….another giveaway on the reputation of Tarifa, were the multitudes of windfarms, I have never seen so many….turning onto a dead end road over a low mountain col, I arrived at the stunningly beautiful La Playa Bolonia, with a clear Moroccan backdrop.

Defo in surfer territory now, this was 1960s California in 2022 - hippydom, all that was needed was that musical backdrop - the Mamas and the Papas, The Doors or CSNY? Campervan city, cool old retro ones…chilled on the beach, cooking, talking, having a cold beer, peace, love 🥰etc …..I love it, a lifestyle to envy, maybe one day (although I’d never surf with my lanky non centre of gravity)…but irrespective I would have a problem for acceptance: a proper beard seems mandatory! I’m almost certain I couldn’t get anywhere near these, I’d fail the interview on arrival 😂

Just 30 mins from Tarifa, I slap on my WhatsApp location for Marine my new host, and soon, navigating through the historic quarter of the small town, there she was waiting for me, to show me to my next stopover….Tarifa, I liked it already….and I hadn’t even started to explore….🥰

ANDALUSIA STAGE 2 - PUERTO SANTA MARIA CADIZ

 

Stage 2: As the crow flies from El Rocio to Cadiz is barely 45 mins, but those wetlands get in the way (that aren’t wet remember 🙄)…so it’s all the way back to Sevilla, then south….a good two hours.

Decided to actually book across from Cadiz at a great spot in its own right called Puerto Santa Maria. My Airbnb host Esther was very particular about arrival times, so by using WhatsApp “location” she was well impressed, and was even standing waiting for me at the entrance to her block., and what a nice surprise! 😘

7th floor, great views of her town, sharing her flat is what AirBnB is about imho….I started using Airbnb a few years back, almost exclusively for racing - essentially if an individual wishes to share their space, by definition they typically tend to be quite open friendly types, there may of course be the odd weirdo….yet to encounter! 

But Esther was super, very accommodating, as well as the views, the flat was equidistant from the beach walk and the centre / old town, where she sent me, on that first late afternoon and evening.

She was actually an English teacher, which wasn’t going to help my Spanish, from Sevilla but lived in the USA. 

The town gets overlooked by the nearby presence of Cadiz, but is actually quite a happening place with a typically Spanish historic centre.

The following day Esther recommended my getting the catamaran taxi across to Cadiz (in my Lancashire - Spanish I insisted on a vuelva, volver, regresar ticket - a return, making sure I got it right! All v similar, I think!).

Esther sent me a WhatsApp with a full itinerary / tour for Cadiz, with links etc 

What a star! 

And it worked a treat…and what an amazing place it is, I would highly recommend a visit….so, to the madness of the central market, via the amazing Cathedral, chaotic but atmospheric at the market with tapas and beer a plenty; next stop Taberna Casa Manteca…apparently according to some English boys at the bar, was on a Rick Stein show…🤷‍♂️ Then the beach, Playa la Caleta, then Santa Catalina castle, and followed by a great walk through narrow streets to the museum (with headphones and of course just the best sounds, enhanced the experience….sure I was dancing at one point 🙄😂)…quite like some modern art, but I’m lost on fine art….so spent time on the top floor, hardly any on the middle, and a bit more, checking out “what did the Romans do for us”….queue the great man JC (you must know it?) 😊

Had another beer stop, when the message arrived from Esther, would you like to go out for dinner tonight? This Spanish AirBnB is just a different level!

I didn’t in the end have a return ticket, irrespective or because of my rubbish Spanish…and the boat was full, so a €35 bloody taxi back, temporarily annoyed with myself….talking to the driver, partido de futbol actually, his team were playing, Cadiz, and he had it on the radio. I lied and said I supported Manchester City, so I could mention Pep, his team were drawing 0-0! I felt better already!

Esther took me to her favourite fish tapas restaurant at 10pm! I quite like the chilled, going out late style….and then we went to her jazz club to meet some pals. None of which could speak any English….and of course as we all know, alcohol plus learning a language makes you fluent….or so I thought. Anyway I made them laugh, regularly, although they said they were laughing “with me”….I did say if I’d spent a month with Esther’s pal, my Spanish would really improve! It was an idea that stuck with me for a while after 😘

We got in at 4am….and the World was still buzzing, but in a non English sober way….before you start, it was all platonic, or is it plutonic….I mix those words up.

So, the two day rule was met…I had to leave and move on the following morning (well, the same one actually!) and guess what?

Esther set me an itinerary for my journey to the next stop, Tarifa. The kite surfing dude capital, Europe’s most southerly point and just a giant leap from Morocco….

So the journey continued, with another fond farewell (and a final hug) it was adios Esther and Puerto Santa Maria…..👍