Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Ullapool to Oban

 DAY 19 Ullapool & Torridon
Thursday 22nd May

 By 1.30am I was asleep in a layby just outside Ullapool, together with a number of other vans. I drove back into Ullapool, it seemed quite nice, similar to Stornaway. My original ferry booking had just arrived and there were lots of vehicles all queuing to head out of the town, fortunately in the opposite direction to me...

 

On local recommendation I went to The Bothie, a cool independent cafe and had another Full Scottish (although I need a break from them now).  The ambience was so cool I even messaged Katie...but within minutes it was destroyed by 3 new clients with 4 large dogs...the dogs were hardly well behaved, but the fvckin owners made more noise, calling out their dogs....I picked up my bits and pieces and went to the outside garden eating area...said a few words to the waitress, And she totally agreed with me, but the owners allow dogs in the small cafe...put THEM in the friggin garden!!

 

 Anyhow it didn’t spoil the breakie, and soon I was on the road again, destination: Torridon, a 90 min drive through classic Scottish mountain and loch scenery....

The scenery was breathtaking with several lochs, and mighty peaks...but this was surpassed when I eventually drove down the Torridon valley. Spectacular scenery with Ben Eigdhe and Ben Alligin on the north side, including their lieutenants. Eventually I paused at Torridon village and a little further on alongside Loch Torridon I found a perfect spot by the loch. For quite a while I read my book, with regular views across the Loch, as this was another eagle spot, apparently,  none seen! The weather remained exquisite, but for how much longer?

It was mid afto and still nice and sunny, and with the use of WalkHighlands I pinched an easy hike around two lochs: Clair and Coulin. High enough to get excellent views of those Torridon peaks across the azure blue lochs.

I drove back to my previous spot for the night, but it had been taken! But fortunately there was enough space for my van, another example of the advantage of a smaller van.The guy already there had been mountain biking but was an experienced hiker / climber for 40 years...and he felt that on the UK mainland those views along the valley were the most dramatic he would send someone to, if there was only one choice! (The Cuillins being the best, of course not on the mainland).

 The weather was due to break this evening, but there now seemed to be a 1/2 day extension...so I decided to climb Mount Eigdhe but early in the morning, as clouds were due by mid afto, and heavy rain in the evening.

 

DAY 20 Torridon & Loch Shieldaig
Friday 23rd May

By 8am I was on the hoof, as planned...the peaks certainly looked imposing and beckoning...the route was clear, unlike some of the more remote hikes I'd done earlier on the adventure. Very soon a chap came downwards towards me....

This was Simon (from Inverness). He'd used an OS route which took him on a rather ambitious direct route to the peak of Ben Eigdhe, rather than the Komoot one I was using, that was following the more defined route...we spent the whole hike together, chatting about all sorts like a pair old buddies! Super company, Simon, thanks mate! 

We soon reached glorious views from the tops, but to reach the highest point we had a short ridge to scramble along and upwards...a challenging scramble really adds to the enjoyment and achievement.

We then ridge walked, and got chatting to two young lads loaded with climbing equipment...later we saw them on a pretty foreboding buttress, now...I'll stick to the scrambling!

We could've done a 3rd Munro, but it was an out and back, and by now some thin cloud had rolled in, no blue for the first time in weeks!

We descended a challenging scree run, looking over and ultimately walking alongside a lochan, Coire...apparently used in some TV series, and described as the most beautiful tarn setting in the UK. Although I'm not sure about that one with ones I know in the Lake District.
We disturbed some red deer...lovely to see.

 

It was all downhill now...but it soon passed by, with further conversation...and although only a 2 km road hike to our carpark back in the valley, we got a hitch at the first attempt!

We said our farewells and we both went separate ways...BTW Simon had an amazing 360 degree camera, an Insta X2...added to my list "for the next time" to conduct some research.

For the first time in weeks, it started to rain, then really hammered it down. Soon I reached the lovely setting of Loch Shieldaig and Shieldaig itself, picking a spot overlooking the Loch, and spent a couple of hours in the local bar, a deserved treat! White Tailed Eagles nest on this loch, but again no sign...

I later learnt that Shieldaig is on the NC500 route, and the price of accommodation for one night is now what it used to be for a week, apparently! I'm no fan of this NC500, great marketing by someone to attract the tourists...but with so many other areas to visit and the fact it attracts many motorcyclists, sportscar types, motorhomes and car drivers (most just drive and take Insta photos, and keep moving on....not for me...🤷‍♂️)...bit like the tourists I witnessed on Skye.
However, I had to experience the Applecross peninsula, but with a washout forecast tomorrow, would it be worth saving for another day?

 

 DAY 21 Applecross Peninsula
Saturday 24th May

The forecast was a 2 day washout, in reality it was mixed, with sunny spells and occasional showers. So I set off around the peninsula...firstly carefully observing Loch Shieldaig for those eagles...not one! 

 

Great journey hugging the coastline, looking over towards Skye, so close as the crow flies, I'd come almost full circle...the islands probably viewed though were more likely to be Rona and Raasay....I stopped a few miles short of Applecross, and went for a wander onto a nice beach (not Harris standard) and followed the coastline to make it a round walk...a red deer stag suddenly startled, ran away from me, but then stopped and stared. Unfortunately I'd left my camera in the van...but returned (after sadly watching Sheff U lose again at Wembley in a play off final, not sad that they lost of course!) but he'd gone!

Applecross was busy, although I guess it's the only stopping / refreshment stop on the whole peninsula....and I think they'd been a cycling event too...the inn was fully booked for food, so it 

 

 was dog food and noodles again! I had a pint, then went in search of a night stop.....just across the bay, I found a stop...no camping signs, with a tent motif, and explicitly referred to the grassy part or machair down towards the waters. I'd found my spot for the night overlooking the bay, but there wasn't much to see, as the weather closed in...

 

DAY 22 Applecross to Pete's!
Sunday 25th May  

The rains had definitely come, although it wasn't continuous, and sometimes the mix of dark clouds, rain, sunshine with occasionally rainbows made the scenery quite dramatic. 

I really had no plans now, except to possibly see Stevie in Glencoe and ultimately go to Pete's somewhere near Oban?! However due to the lochs and general geography the driving was quite substantial, but easy tourist driving, and I was in no rush...firstly to negotiate the (not so at all) formidable Bealach na Ba (the pass over to Loch Kishorn)....it wasn't long before I messaged Pete and decided to arrive at his today....although the views were quite dramatic, the cloud was down, and I had no specific plans to stop anywhere en route. Loch after loch, I stopped for a coffee and some eats at the Pitstop at Kintail. 

 

Glengarry soon arrived, on the Great Glen fault line now and then heading SW along Loch Lochy,  Spean Bridge and Fort William....civilisation at last! The huge sea Loch Linnhe was soon adjacent, before I turned firstly into Glencoe Village, and then to the top of the pass...although it was quite cloudy, you really got an idea of how formidable it is...I'll defo be back. 

Stevie messaged me back in order to meet up, but by which time I'd left Glencoe! Next time mate!!

 

 
I pulled over near Port Appin to sadly watch the last Premiership round of the season...but decided I wasn't bothered...so headed to Pete's. 

Pete (Nimmo) was part of the old Blackpool / Sixth Form / drinking crowd...the last time we met we think was in one of my Edinburgh fringe visits possibly in the late 90s. Pete sent me a postcode to plug into my Google Maps, and thank goodness! 

 

On a single track road right adjacent the sea loch, Loch Creran...Pete had bought a sizeable piece of land and designed everything himself. Clearly including his residence which was like one of these contemporary eco places you see on TV, but the surrounding environment was also well thought out....with water spaces, wild flower areas, grassland, woodland and pathways to the rear....his boat was moored just on the loch, visible through the huge display windows..what a place! Pete is definitely living out his dreams....that full on outdoor existence whatever season....sailing, sea kayaking, island hopping, wild camping, gravel biking and winter based activities too.

During the period just before and including my visit there had been a pine marten (which apparently catch the grey squirrels), red squirrels, stag roe deer, woodpeckers, and an otter had cleaned out the carp from one of the water features.

It was great to see Pete, and we had much to talk about what had occurred in the intervening years, and reminiscing on those Blackpool days, and what had had happened to all those pals we had back in the day...

Pete's local was 7 miles away (he said 6!) via velo and gravel paths..so 3 pints and a Thai curry at the the Creagan Inn,we cycled home in near darkness with full lighting, and it reminded me how I used to enjoy those night club rides at Sheffrec in my early days, even in the depth of Winter...on return we stayed up till nearly 3am continuing those reminisces!

 

DAY 23 Pete's @ South Shian
Monday 26th May
Both rather fuzzy the following morning, and we only had 5 drinks (how times have changed!)....Pete had planned a bike ride with a difference, with two ferries! So we set off to Port Appin, and arrived just as the skipper was breaking for his 2 hour lunch...we'd missed it! Not to worry, the forecast wasn't great, in fact it rained nearly all afternoon, and the forecast tomorrow was much better. We returned a different route to make more of a loop, and then decided to chill in the evening...an relatively lazy day! 

Pete baked a variety of vegetables topped with some lamb, which was delicious....served with a couple of beers....we watched Free Solo with Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan in the Yosemites without a rope, my sixth time, Pete's first, and my heart rate still escalates on that Boulder Gap segment...and the rest!

 

DAY 24 Pete's @ South Shian

Tuesday 27th May
No rush in the morning, as the ferries dictated our start time, 2pm at Oban for
Lismore..but on a closer examination, clockwise was best for the route to align with the ferry timetables...so Oban bound first.  

 

 The last time I was in Oban was on day 2 on my adventure, hoping for a standby place on the Mull ferry. We arrived an hour early, so killed sometime by having some crayfish sandwiches at the dockside (white bread, not very appetising!)...

This was a small car ferry to Lismore (island) 55 mins....and then a few kilometres to a heritage centre that had a nice cafe. I had soup and a panini, as my plan was to set off as soon as we got back...  

Lovely small island, with a single lane from top to bottom....so we continued

 

 

to the foot ferry to get back over to the mainland, at Port Appin. Pete pointed out at island that had recently been bought by a Dutch family (Dutch purchases apparently not unusual) for £6M....

We rode back from the port, the same way as yesterday, and the weather today has been kind, and slowly improving with the higher peaks slowly becoming more visible...the views all through the route had been delightful, but the softer late afternoon light improved them too... 

 

A quick shower, a cuppa, Strava sorted 🙄, van loaded, handshakes and farewells with a promise I'll definitely be back one day, and this time not a 25 year gap....and off I went to see someone else I had not seen for many many years....cracking 2 nights 3 days with Pete!

 

So now, and early evening 3 hour drive but where to?! 

Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Isle of Lewis & Harris

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DAY 14  Isle of Harris
Saturday 17th May

Sadly I guess, I found a parking spot immediately and watched the FA Cup Final (Palace 1-0 City) and then set off on the "main road" as it hugged the west side. Immediately my heart had an extra beat after the general lack of character on Uist. Significant mountain backdrop, rugged coastal scenery, interspersed with the most stunning white sandy bays...one after the other: Scarista,  Horgabost,  Seilebost,  and Luskentyre.  The latter considered one of the better ones...it's hard to separate them though...there was no 4G at Luskentyre (I'm a fussy offgridder now!) So drove all the way back around to where I'd come from, at a spot I'd clocked on the way out..Surprisingly it was still vacant...cracking spot, high up above the coast with amazing views.

 

DAY 15 Isle of Harris
Sunday 18th May

I drove back down to Leverburgh, then headed for the Golden Road...the east side single track that navigates across the very rocky and windy terrain, passing loch after loch...with seals a plenty. I stopped a couple of times, but the driving and such a demanding journey was tiring, and to be honest, as rugged as the scenery was, it never really changed. I'm not sure how long I lasted on the road, but I cut out a final loop...enough was enough! One observation similar to that on Uist...I hardly saw any duck life on any of the lochs, my theory on Uist was that the interior lochans may be very acidic, so not much of an ecosystem to support..but a number of the lochs I passed on this road were sea lochs, and still no wildlife at all...except the seals!

Occasionally on this tour, I choose to have a "chill out day"...more driving and sight seeing (with intentions of relaxing and reading), but I can only drive for so long, it tires me out...this was one of those days, and I needed to do something more active than just driving...although anyone would get worn out on the Golden Road.

It was early afternoon, and I considered climbing the highest mountain on the Outer Hebrides, Clisham,  but first I wanted to tick off another beach, Hushinish. The roads didn't improve, full concentration required on the road to Hushinish, similar to the Golden Road, and some 15 plus miles and I had to come back...just to tick off a must see beach!

 Eventually arriving above the beach, and Wow! This was like the Caribbean, from the white sand to the turquoise waters...quite stunning. I was lucky to get a last parking spot, and I had to go for a closer inspection...the sky was blue, and the sun was quite warm (about 19C)...I walked around the bay, and there appeared a few smaller beaches interspersed with rocky platforms. There was a slight edge to a NE wind, so I positioned myself out of the wind, and finally read my book! The mountain hike was pushed back, as I wandered further around the bay, and eventually over a shallow ridge to look across the sea on the otherside...quite breathtaking.

I decided to stay the night, with occasional sortees out onto the beach and above it to get that photo...at one point I was the only person on the beach. Finally relaxing in the van, the wind really ramped up...blowing the sand horizontal and even rocking the van...and meanwhile I planned my ascent of Clisham, thinking that if it's this windy at sea level, what on earth will it be like at 2000ft!

DAY 16 Isle of Harris
Monday 19th May

There was no need to worry, the wind had eased and it was another glorious morning. I left Hushnish, and this time the return navigation along the single track didn't seem as arduous as yesterday. I found a Clisham circular route on Komoot (which was a big mistake) and soon parked up and was off and upwards. The estimated time for the hike was 5-6 hours, and I was walking before 10am...so all good. The hike was really magnificent, better than I had envisaged. From sea level the mountains were quite inviting, but close up they were much more dramatic looking...with severe cliffs and challenging edges...but probably too many big scree fields which had to be  negotiated carefully, mainly on the descent. 

Most people seemed to be hiking the opposite way, and I soon discovered that it was part of a classic Hebridean horseshoe as documented on WalkHighlands, a wonderful site, detailing numerous challenges all over the Highlands...but as a horseshoe, not a round!
The views from the tops were memorable, and although not many other folk were up there I had some good chats...although one was tinged with sadness: a guy and his wife always wanted to visit the Hebrides, but their booking was cancelled because of Covid, but they retained the booking and changed the dates...but his wife died this last year, and he'd been caring for her...but in her memory he decided to continue with the trip! How sad is that...2 cottages too, one in Tarbet and one further north in Lewis, all on his own, with those memories I guess including, what should have been 😢

On the descent a bog monster attempted to devour me, sinking down above my knees without warning...it made me apprehensive after, and I wondered how this place would be without a rain drought!

Eventually I got back down to the main road, but immediately realised I was a good 6km from my van, and I didn't fancy walking...thumb out, and within 5 mins I got a lift back to my van!

On checking the route later, I discovered that the horseshoe route differed slightly in that the carpark I should have used and the return to the main road were only 500m apart...I'll know next time!

Anyway, all told, it was a 7 plus hour hike, a real full dayer, but worth it...so I decided to reward myself to a pub meal, somewhere....using Google Maps I checked out the only nearby restaurants in Tarbet and on the Isle of Scarpay, but they were quite upmarket fish restaurants... I just wanted some basic pub grub...but there weren't any...so it was noodles and "dog food" (tinned mince and onions for example) again, but I did find a good spot by Loch Laxadale on the return to Tarbet from Scarpay...and by heck, that night the wind was even stronger....as I watched the footy snugly  inside my van...there was suddenly a a knock knock knock knock on the door, and out on the road were a batch of LWB vans each with a car on a trailer...at the door was a young woman they'd obviously volunteered to ask me if I could move so they could all fit on my parking spot....cheek! I stayed!

 DAY 17 Isle of Harris / Lewis

Tuesday 20th May

I decided it was about time for a "Full Scottish", but the nearby cafe in Tarbet was not open until 1030am, so I took my time in the van, and also did a saunter around the loch...I hit Tarbet at about 1010, just in time to use the "utilities", and the water supply...all identified by an app called simply Location, specifically for vans and motorhomes...has all sorts on there from off gridding locations to water, loos, fuel,  cafes etc very useful!

The Full Scottish went down very well, but they'd run out of haggis! Oh no!! I set off, not 100% sure where to, but on my ChatGPT advised itinerary offered some sea stacks in Lewis on the west coast listed for tomorrow...a good 90 minutes drive, but I had nowhere else to go!

These were the Mangersta Stacks, see the photos, I didn't expect this...they really impacted me....for a while I was the only person on the cliff tops, I walked the whole stretch around to a headland, viewing the stacks from differing angles. Occasionally sitting on the cliff edge just mesmerised by these wonders of nature...the stacks alone were amazing, but with the backdrop of the ocean, cliffs, mountains and even two large caves on the opposite headland.

It was worth the 90 minute drive! Nearby too, not to be overlooked, were the Uig Sands...another white sandy beach, but huge...I thought of Southport whilst there...although the Ribble estuary is a poor comparison!

I got that "driving too much" syndrome again, even with the magnificent sea stacks...and decided tomorrow I must look to climb the highest mountain on Lewis...Mealaisbhal and according to WalkHighlands the direct out and back route started just little south of the sea stacks.

So I needed to find an off grid location for the night, and in this vicinity,  and NOT a campsite..."one doesn't do campsites" anymore! Purrrfect, above Reef Bay. Ace view, white sands, rugged backdrop, hill top....but no 4G! As stated earlier, I've become very fussy re my locations...so off on a search I continued, but not a lot of places left...Next area would be a 30 min drive back for tomorrow's walk....Kneep Bay campsite came into view, but just above it was a space for parking, looking down on the bay's expanse and the campsite...but a parked car had obscured the "No Overnight Camping" sign...oh well, on this occasion the campsite.

It was actually quite a nice one, £20 (for 2 people, I hate that 😑) and as I didn't need the electric hookup, I picked my spot literally right on the beach edge! After a walk and a read, at last, I settled in for the night....and as it was a campsite I put my roof top up, then regretted it...I'd got so accustomed to not having it, I felt I'd lost the cosiness, so I decided after 45 mins to pull it back down.

At least I tried, for some reason, I couldn't get all the material inside the front lip, eventually I managed to close it, but it wasn't satisfactory, and was a little concerned, so, as I write this, I must tidy tomorrow (I meant to do it today but forgot!)....mental note to self!

The wind got up again overnight...there felt a change in the weather oncoming...

DAY 18 Isle of Lewis
Wednesday 20th May

Another clear sky, but definitely cooler....which reminds me. I had a morning pattern: heater on whilst still wrapped up....typically the thermostat was about 12C first thing...but the heater soon took it to a nice temperature...coffee on...and then a body wash (usually, although I had a shower at the campsite (£1 for 3 mins!))...v refreshing with my camping soap pads...bed put away...then another coffee with a porridge (what else!) And ready for the day...go go!

I read the detail on WalkHighlands for my proposed walk, and I couldn't get excited. A 20 min drive to the start point was OK...but an out and back route but with substantial bog...then I read about another closer lower level walk with diverse scenery but with enough altitude to get excellent coastal and mountain views...that'll do!

Parking adjacent a local school, the kids were playing out...I pondered  the lifestyle of children growing up in this environment, and after throwing an escaped football to a teacher ('thanks, but I'd get it but I'm the only one on duty today so cannot leave the kids!")...I set off, also admiring a set of large chess pieces apparently discovered under the sand dunes! From the 12th century,  one piece was sold for £735,000 and most are held in the British Museum: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_chessmen

The walk was as good as described, but plentiful bog trotting, goodness knows what these bogs are like after normal rain or snow melt 😳

Don't laugh, but navigation was an issue. Few excuses...laws in Scotland are very open on access, in fact it is open access...so the OS maps don't regularly have standard footpath markings...so Komoot for example struggles to route plan, as it requires the underlying source maps to have access paths to work....you can override but it cannot help you....also, (even if I had a silva compass) I purposefully downloaded the appropriate OS maps to my phone, but for some reason when out of signal, they don't upload...I must investigate....

So after the first and highest peak, topped with all sorts of radar and receivers (including air traffic control apparently) on Forsnabhal and I knew the next tangible location was a tarn or lochan,  as they are called in Scotland...but the wrong one!

It didn't matter, it was a small jewel amongst the heather and bog...I sat there for a while, totally alone...and pondered across the waters, and had my first ham, brie and cranberry wrap...delish!

Soon back on track, the larger intended lochan soon came into view...such a wonderful day and I didn't care about the extended route.

Descending towards coast level, Reef Bay came into view (the previous perfect off grid location but without 4G)....an excellent viewpoint...I reached for my binoculars as some ravens were circling around....aaagh!

But where were they??? Shit, I'd not got them, I must have left them at the first lochan when I got my first wrap out, but that by now was some distance back. What should I do: write off £400 binoculars or walk back?

I walked all the way back, quite philosophical, it was a glorious day, an easy walk, and I'd see the vistas from a different perspective....so I told myself!

And there they were, sat on a rock behind where I'd been sat...I apologised to them (I really did) and trudged back to reset my hike....so a 16km hike, 6km more than the plan!
So, that was Lewis and Skye, my ferry booked was at 7am tomorrow, but I knew there was one at 10pm tonight from Stornoway, so in that direction I set...via a scenic alternative loop in order to check out the mid to north part of Lewis. I'd heard and researched it was very bleak with lots of lochans, and it was....it did actually remind me of swathes of Yorkshire on my recent trip...

Parking right in the heart of the small town, I discovered a curry house (nice) watched the appalling first half of the Europa Cup final  between  Spurs and Man Utd, then 45 mins prior to sail time went to join the throngs embarking on the ferry and hoped I could be squeezed on...

There was no one there! The late ferry it materialised is specifically the commercial freight ferry for HGVs etc, so Joe Public cannot book in advance...and as most of the holiday makers have restricted time, they generally pre book those that are available for the public. So there was my van, one car and not many HGVs. And as this is a significant crossing (near 3 hours) it's a pretty sizeable ferry....so a little surreal with no one hardly on the boat! And all the HGV boys were finding quiet corners to get a snooze....

Just finished writing this, it's 0046am and we have just docked!

Perfect timing, and back on the mainland....with no definite plans except possible catchup with Stevie (met in Mull) in Glencoe and an old Blackpool pal, Pete, who lives at Loch Crennan....wherever that is.....anyhow I need somewhere to kip....

And that was the Islands, now an explore heading south from Ullapool...I must ask ChatGPT the places of interest!

Scotland Tour - May 2025 - North & South Uist

 DAY 12 South Uist

Thursday 15th May
So, a 90 minute ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy. The plan was was to drive all the way south then work my way north, as my ferry to Lewis was from Bernaray in the far north. It wasn't a great initial impression, practically all of the landscape throughout the journey was featureless. Flat marshland with a myriad of lochans, with hardly a sign of wildlife on them (later realising that they were probably quite acidic and thus lifeless?). 

I eventually got to Lochboisdale, looking for a park up, but I have certain criteria now with my offgridding! Using Park4Night there were a couple of spots, incredulously next to a pub in a coastal remote spot only 10 mins away.   

I discovered, later after a few chats, this is why people generally love Uist. A glorious beach welcomed me, and a perfect spot, facing west, to look forward to another stunning sunset in the practically cloudless sky. I wandered slowly along the beach and rocky platforms towards the pub (Polochar Inn), and it was rather nice.

After gorging on a venison burger washed down with 2 pints of Skye Red, I wandered back to the van. Only to discover a bloody big motorhome had somehow squeezed past me, and parked up fairly close up, when there was plenty of space...knobs. It didn't obstruct my sunset view, eventually capturing one of my favourite photos so far, post sunset the sky due west was a mixture of reds and pinks, with a nearby rock platform occupied by a flock of oystercatchers...good photo for me anyway, have a butchers above.

DAY 13 South Uist
Friday 16th May

More chats on a repeat peruse along the coast in the morning, encouraged me to have a rare very easy cycle an hour north along the coast, to inspect the continuum of white sands, dunes and rocky platforms. It was gorgeous...some gratuitous birding and photography...seeing certain wader birds in their summer coats was a joy, such as dunlin and sanderlings....I returned with a loop slightly inland, but this confirmed it was the coast that is the clear attraction.

The women who encouraged me to inspect that coastline, also said I must at least visit the closest of two islands that were due south of S Uist. Eriskay was connected by a causeway, and on arrival I understood why. More character land wise, but a gem of a beach and view...I sat above the beach, again decrying I hadn't packed any swim shorts! 

Having only 2 full days on Uist I headed north. The west side are where the beaches are, the east side is more rugged, I did a couple of sortees east...but a priority was Loch Druidbeg, so I headed there and planned this to be my second stayover spot, hopefully viewing the White Tailed Eagles, apparently where they bred. The omens were good, as one flew over as I drove in that direction, but alas I never saw one again...in fact again, there wasn't much to see right across the Loch.

  A fantastic spot though, with a backdrop of really the only hill range, the highest point on Uist, Ben Mhor at about 1900ft...I was planning on hiking it, but the estimated hike time was several hours with lots of cross country bog!

I parked right next to the RSPB trailer, where I later learnt every Tuesday at 9.30am there is a guided viewing, and they would know exactly where to go and view those Eagles!

DAY 14 Uist
Saturday 17th May

Great spot overnight, so remote, and a rare mountain backdrop on Uist, but no sight of a confounded eagle!

I moved onwards northwards, and made a couple of eastward inspections, but nothing to warm the heart, and always had to return the same way. The RSPB reserve on the coast at Balranald was next, firstly mistakenly going to a small campsite, where the lady refused me to conduct a water top up! 

 

There were a couple from Wigan sat on the small cliff top bird watching, but said it was super quiet...so soon I continued my journey north, crossing more causeways and across Benbecula.

Closer to Bernaray I'd passed a tempting hill with a rocky helmet, with no rights of way on the OS map but a track of sorts leading away from the road, I asked a local if I could cut across his field, and off I went, this was Crogearraidh, barely 600ft, but stood aloft the flatlands with views right across the island. Again the beach and small bay on the coast was exquisite..

Before crossing the final causeway to Bernaray I did another lengthy eastward explore, but returned immediately, I was struggling now to fill the day...the days have a good 18 hours of daylight, it was only 3pm, and wondered how I could fill the the next 6 plus hours?

So across the causeway to Bernaray and immediately I saw the queue for the ferry to Harris, but my ferry booking was 8.30am the next day. A must visit as advised was the Bernaray West Beach, so 10 mins further on I parked up, and could see another impressive beach and dunes...but I had 6 hours to kill, and by now I really needed more than beach views. Across the strait I could see the mountains of Harris...a quick check on the ferry app, and the immediate one was due to leave in 20 mins! I span around and rushed to the ferry, well, I tried...a friggin motorhome was blocking my way at less than 20mph. Suffice to say, the ferry hadn't loaded up, so I joined a 2 van queue in lane 3, the standby lane...and just literally they squeezed me on so close to the ramp, I worried how close it would get to the van when they raised it! 50 mins later I drove off the ferry into Leverburgh, I parked up immediately, the FA Cup final had literally just kicked off!