Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Isle of Skye

DAY 7 - Mull to Skye

Saturday 10th May

 I didn't rush in the morning. I went via the earlier campsite to recover a towel, then the loos in the first village (see, no worries...one of my concerns re off grid, although I do have an emergency bucket and super strong bin liners!).

I tootled to the ferry, not knowing the time table,  as my ticket I could catch any ferry. Fluked perfect timing as the vehicles were literally embarking as I arrived, and I just fitted on...over to Lochaline on the mainland and then a 90 min slow drive to Mallaig for the Skye ferry.

 All very pleasant, Mallaig was rather busy with mainly tourists...and I failed in getting some cheap footwear for my waterfall pool bathing...the temperature is no issue, it's the stones under barefeet!

Last on the ferry at Fishnish, but first off at Mallaig. I chatted with a young chef who was returning to work on Skye, but interrupted by my van alarm going off (and multiple other vehicles) clearly caused by the ferry's vibration...at least I know it works!

I'd got some tips from my Mull contacts on where to start my Skye journey. It wasn't going dark until nearly 10pm, so no rush, the plan was to start south and work my way up, as the plan was to catch the Uig ferry to North Uist, eventually!

Firstly I went to Elgol, SE Skye, a tiny port, at the end of a fairly long single track road (as most are)...which included a journey around the shores of Loch Slapin where I'd clocked numerous off grid possibilities, and that is where I returned.

With views to die for, but with no phone signal (and my OS map download attempts had failed) I had no idea what mountains i was surrounded by...brill setting though with a handful of vans scattered but not too many, and a few tents. This location was on the route of the Skye Trail, a lengthy backpacking route. Nearby too, were some small waterfalls and pools, perfecto!

DAY 8 Skye
Sunday 11th May
The plan was to have a chill day after the Ben More ascent, my quads were complaining a little, mainly from the arduous descent off Ben More. With no signal, I noticed on my road map there were some waterfalls on a walk just across the Loch, so I decided to head over there...
The falls were heading in the direction of the impressive peaks I'd viewed from the van overnight...the draw of them was predictable...still with no signal, I spoke to a couple of folk on the way down, and learnt that it was a "ronny" called Bla Bleinn (I think pronounced Blathin?)...the main ascent was quite tough, lots of scree, very steep...but the scenery became increasingly awesome, in fact I'd rarely seen such dramatic mountain scape.

 

At the top, with crazy views across to the Cuillin ridge, I was firstly alone, then a young Dutch couple arrived but from the peak opposite, which I fancied doing, to make at least part of the route non repeatable. But they didnt hesitate in advising me not too, due to a very exposed 40m or so....soon, a Scottish guy, Stevie arrived...

We discussed whether to do the loop, and decided to...his reasoning was, what do the Dutch know about mountains?!

It was exposed, very much so, but carefully we navigated across it, however in a different way, worse was a lengthy steep scree down to a col...slowly and carefully and with the aid of one of Stevie's sticks we made it..and all the way back to the loch. We exchanged numbers, and as Stevie was based in Glencoe there was a possibility we may hook up as I pass through....

We hit the loch quite late, at about 7pm, when suddenly a sea fog / cloud rolled in over the massif...quite spectacular,  and down just in time.

 

 DAY 9 Skye
Monday 12th May
Sleeping in a layby south of Sligachan...I planned to have a chillout day with easy walks and sight seeing...I half heartedly did the Sligachan Falls...and Sligachan itself was swamped with tourists, taking multiple photos of anything and everything! 

 

All except a nearby statue celebrating the two pioneers who first navigated the Cuillin edge.

I really needed to relax today, I was very tired...grabbing a coffee and cake in Carbost, right opposite the Talisker whisky distillery and sat on the grass behind the coffee place and read my book. But soon sat with a young Irish girl who now lived in Edinburgh, and packed in being a barrister, to enjoy her love of mountaineering! She wrote on my phone 3 intro Munros on the Cuillin ridge, a choice for tomorrow's hike...

Not far away I discovered a cracking little spot, by a small harbour and community, with an evening to remember as the sun set directly across the sea, while seals swam nearby disinterested! This was Portnalong Pier, tremendous spot, the thought now of using a campsite is getting further and further removed...this is true liberation! Just, I decided to swing my van sidewards to get the best views, in agreement with a couple of off gridders, however my rear wheels sank into what was deep gravel...two pushing and some worry we weren't winning, when suddenly "she" (I haven't got a name yet, was going to be Tranny but thought otherwise!) got a grip and grovelled out! Phew!

 

Strategically placing the van at the top and side of the slipway, no way was I reversing back onto that gravel, an advantage of having a small van, proved numerous other times too...

A seal appeared in the small harbour, and the evening sunset was scintillating!

 

A guy nearby caught me including the van with the sunset, and laughed, although he admitted photoing his motorbike with strategic mountain backdrop, I argued that was more sad, slightly!

 DAY 10 Skye
Tuesday 13th May
So the Cuiilins today. Last night I sent Stevie 3 options, with a favourite starting from the Fairy Pools...Stevie checked the detail, and advised that the hardest scramble was a grade 2 (out of 3). The Munro was Bruach na Frithe.

I was at the FP carpark quite early and already it was v busy...a tourist hotspot.
The Fairy Pools are a sequence of waterfalls with the backdrop of part of the Cuillin edge...quite pretty, but must be better when it has been normally rainy, another steamer of a day though today, in fact I spent the whole day in a T shirt...

 

As it materialised the ascent (and descent) was easier than Bla Bleinn, and some scrambling but never a Grade 2. Perhaps in this case it's what you make it, as there were easier walking routes just below the ridge, I guess one could choose to navigate the edge. Ascending I spent most of the time with two girls, and their dogs...with just one of them to the top, as the other did worry when we did hit some rocky scrambles (unfortunately I forgot their names).

The views of course were dramatic and magnificent, on a perfect day. I sat with two old boys, ex rock climbers, who knew all the different peaks we were looking at, even in the distance on the mainland.

The only negative were a group of young Americans fvcking about with their Instagram priorities...really ruining the kharma...but soon 

they left, and suddenly you could hear a pin drop...we sat there for a good period of time, marvelling at the extraordinarily vistas before setting off down a different edge, to make a round trip of it.

 

I found a secluded waterfall near the carpark and had a lovely dip. Great day...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 DAY 11 Skye

Wednesday 14th May

My plan was to get a ferry to North Uist, but wanted to visit the Old Man of Storr first just north of Portree...so I headed north, finding a roadside recess with a loch view and the Old Man. Looked more like contemporary art v impressive.
By 9am I was at the Storr carpark, and again this was more busy than I'd seen before on Skye..with a perpetual stream of bodies ascending to the main view point. It was worth it  though, the rock structure was quite morphologically impressive, so unique and cathedral like!

After the Viewpoint, I'd planned to climb much higher above the imposing cliffs to the Storr summit...within 200m of leaving the viewpoint path, I was in complete isolation...bliss!

It was an easy ascent with a steady ridge walk to reach the summit...sat there was Callum, a copper and quality rugby player from Montrose...he was going back the same way, but I invited him on my Komoot circular route, so off we set...main descent down a sharp very narrow water course, and soon we were at the carpark, saying our farewells.

Thought I'd better book my ferry, only to discover there was no availability for days! So I called direct...my vehicle was downsized on their system  from a motor home to a campervan (cannot do online) and the nice lady got me a spot but tomorrow! And advised to complete the two other ferries required to Harris and finally back to the mainland at Ullapool. All booked with exact ferry times now, for £150.

Popping down to Portree to get ripped off by the local Co-Op (everything is expensive, and also not a great choice after a cyber attack!). I decided to head back north passed the Old Man...with occasional view point stops until I came to the top of the island, heading closer to my ferry port, Uig.

Another stunning find to stay over, facing exactly due West with yet another stunner of a sunset, over the top of Uist, my destination for tomorrow.

 

The next morning, I visited another tourist trap, the Fairy Gardens....just a series of isolated small stacks..Killed 90 mins,  before heading down into Uig to catch the ferry to Lochmaddy, North Uist.

   

I went for a coffee with a guy who was in a van in front of me...my sort of age...told me he had prostate cancer, and had just finished chemotherapy., he was told to rest but decided to get out in his van...at times he didn't seem too well...just makes you think!  

To the ferry we went....

North Uist and South Uist here we come!

 

 

Scotland Tour - May 2025 - Oban & Isle of Mull

DAY 1 Crinan & south of Oban (Adhern Peninsula & Loch Awe)

Sunday 4th May

Returning back from Mallorca, I had some immediate plans including a visit to London...however as there was some rather stunning forecasted weather including Scotland, I quickly loaded the van and first thing on Sunday May 4th I was off up north, very north.

A good 6 hours later (after 2 stops), I'm alongside Loch Lomond, this stirs the heart, although I must keep going. It's Mayday weekend, and it's very busy...so first stop Inveraray. Again, some apprehension re overnighting and off gridding about the van, need to basically use more...but especially not continually using campsites.

 The campsite near Inverary looked awful, so I continued to Lochgilphead  - I got chatting there to a guy with a van, who mixed sites with off grid...he gave me a few tips like if you see a beach, take the road / track and see if 

 anywhere to park van; any Forestry Commission? and he'd just stayed by the Crinan Canal...I inspected, but kept going into Crinan itself...after a short pootle I headed towards Oban. 

 But where do I stay the night!! Using the app, Park4TheNight , there was a site in a tiny place called Adhern, but noticed at the end of the Peninsula, there was a carpark. So ignoring the small camping site, I made my way to the end of the road, and there was a carpark of sorts, with about 5 vans and no view. 

I didn't last long, I don't want a van ghetto,  and set off to return, when within 300m I noticed a space at the side of the lane, with views to die for...and that became my room with a view for the night, and what a view! The most amazing sunset, sunrise and morning views....in perfect May weather...looking across at Jura.

 

DAY 2
Monday 5th May - Loch Awe & Isle of Mull 

So a proper off grid night, and how liberating, and what a view, with the most scintillating sunset, right out of my van window! Next stop Mull, or was it? I went on the CalMac ferry site, and no availability for vans for the foreseeable, I even called them direct, but no luck. The only chance was on standby?

The following morning, after watching some Eider Ducks romancing, also a gorgeous Great Northern Diver getting bothered by gulls, I set off down the Adfern peninsula, but decided to go back south briefly, for some nostalgia.

Loch Awe was where with my Mum, Dad and sister, we went 3 years running in the late 60s early 70s (ultimately defeated by the midges), and where my Dad recognised my possible interest in birds and bought me at the time the definitive bird guide. All through me questioning a guy who sat all day with his binoculars looking out across the Loch, who let me use them...55 years later, I soon (well 23 miles of very narrow single track) arrived at Port Sonachan. Naturally I found it quite emotional, the "posh house" was actually up for sale (we stayed in one of three caravans down by the loch). I remember going up to the house though to watch the 1970 World Cup: oh, Peter Bonetti, what was you doing!! (One for the kids).

I hardly remember the hotel in the village, we wouldn't have gone there due to cost, but I stopped for a pint overlooking the Loch with the backdrop of Ben Cruachan, also recalling a boat my Dad hired just with me, and getting into some minor waves / difficulty at the nearby esturary of the River Awe...I'm sure we didn't have life jackets on either!

Heading on to Oban, I had a chance for the last ferry at 1940 to Mull. Lane 3 was standby lane, crossing my fingers, all the cars, vans and motor homes boarded...and then, phew, I was called to embark, just enough space! 

Alighting at Craignore, I asked a ferry worker, where do I pay? Assuming I had a ticket already scanned, he put his finger to his lips and waved me on...a freebie!
On research I knew Loch na Keal was the place for White Tailed Sea Eagles, and also according to the app Park4Night a semi off grid campsite...I was still unsure about offgridding, I felt more comfortable on an actual site (watch this space!), located right at the head of the loch, by which time the sun had just about set...a great spot!

DAY 3 - Isle of Mull

Tuesday 6th May 

The plan originally was to stay 2 nights on Mull then head towards Skye. I booked ahead on two ferries, so all sorted. This then my only full day, I decided to pinch a MTB route off Komoot, and take my gravel bike for a spin. The only off road section was immediate, over the tops tp Salen, after which it was single track lanes, including returning along the shores of Loch na Keal...not an eagle in sight!

The ride was OK but it didn't overly excite me, my first bike ride in 8 days too...after returning to the van and a sink based body wash, I decided to go for a drive.

A giveaway that there's something worth stopping for, is when you get a batch / flock / crowd of people with binoculars and scopes all looking in the same direction! And barely a mile from the campsite, here I was joining them all in viewing a White Tailed Sea Eagle in what I soon learnt was its regular tree on the hillside!

I got chatting to 2 Nottingham guys who tipped me off about where to possibly see an otter, and also mentioned a boat trip out to the Treshnish Isles, with some seabird paradise, it got me thinking.

Continuing the journey I went via the white sanded Calgary Bay, and finished off in Tobermory. One to have a pint and meal, and also to get some WiFi to upload my photos...the pint was quite nice, but over £6, and £16 for an average fish and chips...but I did upload my photos!
Back to the campsite, I thought I need to make a decision...I had no time restriction, so why rush off, with clearly much more to see...so, I pushed the ferries back one day (an advantage of purchasing standard tickets) and booked the boat trip to the Treshnish Isles (£80), but for the Thursday, as the next day was booked up.

I pushed my ferries back another day! 

DAY 4 - Isle of Mull
Wednesday 7th May

Otter day, or so I hoped!

The Nottingham boys mentioned Croggan. So off I set, via a cafe in Salam, which included a cracking Guinness and cream cake, delicious! Eventually via the smallest of single track roads to the almost very south of the island. These sea lochs, inlets and bays really are unbelievably exquisite, stunning in their setting...and with an almost continuous blue sky and sunshine.

There weren't many others there, and apparently two separate otters had been seen...so off I set down the track hugging the shore, totally alone...and then suddenly there he / she was...hard to photo though as it was constantly diving, eyes peeled to be alert, camera in hand, to get that classic photo. This occurred about 6 times, but then....nowhere! Where the heck had it gone?

Anyway, tick, tick - eagle and otter (although a Golden Eagle would be nice too)...returning to the little carpark: everyone had gone! It was so warm in the sun, and the views were NZ like (as my daughter commented on a video I sent). Just me and this setting, it really was blissful,  off the scale and not for the last time, quite spiritual.

I set my camping chair out in a good view spot, and quietly soaked it all in, it felt very good! And with a super view of a Great Northern Diver, in bright Summer plumage, plus a pair of Red Breasted Mergansers.

 

Then I got thinking again. A fair part of this dramatic view were Ben More and its lieutenants- the only Munro on the island (or a "Ronny" as I later learnt) - it was calling!

DAY 5 Isle of Mull
Thursday 8th May

The boat trip out to the Treshnish Isles, but first some time to kill. I went via the recess at the loch side where at most times they'd be people looking mainly for the Sea Eagle. 

At approx 11am each day a boat with tourists would appear and entice an eagle by throwing dead fish into the water. The local eagle knew this, and by now so did I, and I had a good idea where he'd be waiting! 

 And there he was not out in the loch, where the peeps had their binoculars trained, but behind us on the hillside on his favourite tree...I informed the small group, and they were delighted, with smug me, I'd become a local expert!

On to the boat, embarked at the Ulva island ferry...so off we went first to Staffa and Fingels Cave. Legend has that Staffa and the Giants Causeway in N Ireland have a connection (something about Gods falling out), as they both illustrate the excellent basalt columnar jointing, quite impressive.

The highlight though was the second island where we spent 2 hours...Lunga. Bempton Cliffs on steroids! Thousands of puffins all around as you walked, literally next to your feet! Another highlight was a colony of guillemots, tens of thousands, all tightly packed and nesting, mind blowing! Also razorbills and super close up of nesting shags...and more of course. 

 Three of us spent too long hearing the rasping sandpaper like call of corncrakes but couldn't see them in the grass! I got quite pally with a couple of women, well three actually, all of whom were also on the same campsite as me...they were spending the next 3 nights on a remote bothie on the Isle of Ulva, which we passed on the return...Mull really is the place for detox! The other lady, Kate, had a super interesting life...there didn't seem to be a place in the world where she hadn't spent some time generally doing voluntarily work...including Mongolia where the only shower she could use was in the local brothel!

 

As a young lady (from Baghdad!) who was wild camping  said to me, when you travel solo, you're never alone! Wise words and bang on!!

A return to Mull by 6pm, and another ferry towards Skye, I'd decided to push back another day...some unfulfilled business still on Mull!

 

DAY 6 Isle of Mull
Friday 9th May.

 

A rather late start to commence the ascent of Ben More, considering the last ferry from Fishnish was 7pm. Although the start was just down the loch but on the southern side where I hadn't ventured before. What became aware, were the clear opportunities for off grid camping.

Pulling into one of these slots was the start of the walk...first up to a col and then a sharp climb to a secondary peak followed by some consistent decent scrambling to the summit. The views were excellent on another glorious day, with 4 Sea Eagles gliding above (I was hoping they were Golden of course).

On people, I started with a couple at the Loch, the guy a real character...talked about all things but one was about off grid camping, and the temptation to head that way was now almost certain.

Catching us up, and then who I walked with all the way to the first col was Fiona from Suffolk...really enjoyed her company...but at the col she decided to go left, and climb the peak not in our direction. 

 

 She was into "lists" - on her third round of Wainwright's,  and now doing Munros, or "ronnies" and the peak to the left was apparently a "Corbett" ! I thought she was taking the piss, but sure enough Ronnie's are above 3000 feet, and Corbetts are 2500 to 3000 (and below that are Fionas!). So off she went...

 

We all reconvened back at the loch then said our farewells, great like minded people. BTW all three of them told me to not bother with Skye, they said it was too busy and simply not as open and chilled as Mull. We will see.

 

I moved my ferry again to the next day, and wild camped where I was, after a welcome dip in a nearby waterfall...

 

There is an element of freedom and liberation with wild camping, and the "relationship" with the van enters a higher plane, or something like that!

Next day the Isle of Skye!