EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 12 - Vienna (Austria)

Stage 12 - Vienna - Austria - 12th to 15th October 

Quite interesting driving the rural roads north towards Vienna, from Lake Balaton, until I reached the freeway…very arable, crops galore to the horizon, a real food basket! Interesting…

That serenity was broken though on the motorway at rush hour, especially the closer I got to the city centre….very difficult negotiating what Google Maps was instructing, as the GPS was lost in the multiple tunnels…but somehow I went straight to John’s without a hitch! And there was John welcoming me on the roadside (I did invoke “Live Location” on WhatsApp!).

I hadn’t seen John in over 4 years, who used to live in Sheffield but now firmly ensconced in central Vienna. And you can’t blame him!

I spent 4 days with him, and although that’s a short time to gain a full understanding of anywhere, I was suitably impressed to how his lifestyle has been improved (oh, except a decent pint, unless you count Guinness!). The city centre is fairly compact, we went into the centre every night for food and liquid refreshment, but I also spent a chunk of a day walking around all the historical areas, which were very impressive (coming from me, that says a lot!).

Included the City Hall, Parliament, Theatres, Museums, Churches and the Cathedral, see photos.

And then there is the weather! Mid October and it’s sunny and in the low 20s, and invariably dry (rain shadow from the Alps to the west)….and John stated this is normal!

I did a spin on the island where the Danube was dammed, so on one side is an affective lake, and the redirected flowing Danube on the other side. Created relatively recently, in the 80s, to alleviate any flooding?

However on the Saturday, John lent me a road bike, and we did 100k plus / 4 hours riding, with three significant climbs and a few “blips”…first road ride for me for months, and certainly not that long…I survived just, but with some lower back pain. I thought Vienna was at the flat end of Austria!!

It made the evening pasta and Guinness taste that much better of course! Aided by a tremendous atmosphere in an Irish pub watching the Ireland vs NZ rugby quarter final…packed to the rafters….but most went home unhappy, but a classic frenetic top level game of that rugger! 

All in all, 4 great days, it flew by, and the combo of John’s company and the city itself, I really enjoyed it….and…I had a bed! Lol.😂

But John was flying to Zurich on business on the Sunday, so head west young man? Vienna being the furthest point east on my trip (or was Hungary?)….so affectively heading back now, and getting back on the original itinerary to the Austrian Alps but it was pouring down as I approached Salzburg, with two hours more driving to go….what do I do? 🤷‍♂️😊

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 11 - Lake Balaton - (Hungary)

Stage 11 - Lake Balaton - Hungary - 11th to 12th October 

I awoke at Kranjska to blazing sun with not a cloud in the sky, it was so tempting to stay, the Alpine skyline was at its best, but I’d already decided to leave and head to Lake Balaton. 4.5 hours drive, but soon I was leaving those Alpine vistas behind, although on the approach there was some variation and more appealing landscapes, but mainly in Slovenia.

Arriving on the shores of the Lake, I stopped to conduct some local research; which part of the lake is nicest and where are the campsites? Whilst doing so, I noticed a pair of Bearded Reedlings feeding quite confidently, despite my presence, on the mudflats. See photos, very nice, first time I think, I’ve seen them.

It turned out I had another hour to drive towards the eastern end of the lake, but even still struggled to find a place to pitch my tent. The sites were closed, out of season, but they were more like holiday camps anyway. For a short time I struggled, also, I wasn’t impressed with the general environment. However on checking AirBnB I found a hotel in one of the recommended villages, Tihany. Sited on a historically protected peninsula. The hotel was nice, all oldie worldly and thatched roofs, and next to a nature reserve. 

(For ref: £51 plus €6 for parking!)

In the evening after photographing a Syrian Woodpecker, I went in search of an eaterie. In the dark, the village looked nice, and planned to revisit the following morning. I requested an Hungarian dish, and was presented with beef cheek, in red wine sauce and potato dumplings! Very nice!

With no expectation on a planned bike circuit, after my first impressions yesterday, I was really pleasantly surprised. I did visit the village first, which was nice, with elevated views over the lake, and prime position given to the Benedictine Abbey. The lakeside dedicated path was a little monotonous, but once I climbed up into the hinterland it was very nice, with pleasant villages, quiet lanes, vineyards, forest trails and deer! A real mix.

Within an hour of arriving back at the hotel, I was heading almost due north, as planned, to visit a pal in Vienna….noticing how rural that part of Hungary is, through miles and miles of arable land.

But in less than three hours all that was forgotten, as I negotiated the crazy freeways at rush hour heading into Vienna.

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 10 - Kranjska Gora (Slovenia)

Stage 10 - Kransjka Gora - Slovenia - 9th Oct to 11th

So, when I returned from the bar on the last night in Bovic, I conducted some quick research (in my tent!) on Lake Balaton in Hungary, and it didn’t sound very enticing. Their mountains (only on part of the north side) are rather flat, and simply I wasn’t attracted, it wasn’t selling itself whatsoever 🤷‍♂️

And I had to kill 4 nights before visiting my pal in Vienna next Friday. I didn’t fancy 4 nights there!

Also at the back of my mind, although I had driven through the place twice, returning to Lake Bled and on the way to Bovic….I suspected I had missed an opportunity in Kranjska Gora, on the opposite side of the Vrsic Pass. Again, some quick research and it did seem to confirm that I had.

So off I set off over the pass…and this time, it was a contrast to last (sunny) Saturday….pretty quiet,certainly not a repeat of the masses of cars.

I popped into the tourist information at Kranjska, for some biking and hiking info, but decided on the campsite just 4km down the road, at Camp Spik. And what a great choice, a very lovely welcome 😘 and a view to die for, looking towards the dramatic profile of part of the Julian Alps, and a very quiet site too (in fact the lady on reception stated that last Saturday was a bit freaky with the number of people (mainly locals) that rolled out in the October sunshine, and, she was also familiar with Lake Balaton, and agreed with the conclusion of my research!). 

(For ref: 20 euros per night)

Through the info received, and the lady on reception, I planned a cycle route…to Italy and back! Seriously!! All along the valley (Sava) is an old railway line, mainly with tarmac, but also planned some detours, generally climbing out of the valley to experience these points of interest: Lake Jasna (together with the Ibex statue); Zelenci nature reserve; Tarvisio (Italy) and Lake Fusine and a World Championship Ski centre at Planica, and an elevated valley well up and beyond.

The diversions off the valley trail have that mountain backdrop experience, although it would’ve been quite bland…with some significant climbs, the views were very nice, especially with the lakes in the foreground.

I drove into (was going to cycle) Kranjska for an evening meal (Gnocchi with a Gorgonzola sauce, plus a local desert: sweet cheese dumplings with cream….was quite nice!).

The next day I decided on a hiking day, and using Komoot, started from the top of the  Vrsic Pass, sort of ticked the boxes, although a little too much climbing through thick forest (I put my music on to make some noise, in case of those pesky bears! Then worrying they may be attracted by a bit of dance chillout! 😂 Suffice to say, I got chatting to a local girl at the finish, who reassured me that there aren’t any bears in that region, 😂 something about Wolves, but not sure where she meant! 😳). 

 Eventually, and with a lot of climbing, I got the views I wanted, surrounded by an amazing vista, although I stayed below the buttress level….I wasn’t confident on the routes to the tops, as quite a few folk at the pass top had climbing gear with them. 🤷‍♂️

The same girl, above, had just done a hiking route to a peak top, and she explained the route, so my plan was to perhaps return, if I stay in Slovenia for two more days?

For a very rare occasion I improvised with a branch to make a walking stick. And recognised both with the steep ascents and descents how it definitely helped both ways….I’d also noticed how most hikers of all ages and standards use sticks….so on my return to Kranjska I popped into a shop, and apparently I need the variable length (longer for downhill) telescopic set. Unfortunately they had none in stock! Watch this space…

From there I drove east down the valley, to check out the Pericnik Waterfall, which was quite impressive….see photos.

As the afternoon progressed though, from contemplating staying here for 4 nights, I started thinking I’d like to move on….possibly to Hungary, I’ll sleep on it! 😊

 

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 9 - Julian Alps - Bovec (Slovenia)

Stage 9 - The Sôca Valley - Julian Alps - Bovec - Sat 7th Oct to Mon 9th Oct

So off I set into the mountains…saying farewell to my lovely chatty camp neighbours (Jonathon:French and Gaia: Italian)….first, the climb over Vrsic pass.

Quite a climb! Right into the heart of the Julian Alps….it was a Saturday, and not a cloud in the sky….explaining perhaps why this natural beauty was spoilt by the huge numbers of visitors, there wasn’t an impossible spot left to dump a car, it was that bad.

Later I commented my observations to the guy at the campsite , and he said it’s worse in July and August, how could it be!?

I eventually descended along the beautiful Sôca River, to my target destination, Bovec. The activity centre of the region….very quickly I was set up on a nearby campsite, and jumped on the bicicleta for a spin up and down the valley……

It was an ok ride, but the planned trail was blocked due to work, so I returned a little early, still 2 hours…not all but an emphasis on outdoor activities are based around the River Sôca, from kayaking, white water rafting to canyoning….

Also there is a well worn trail, the not unsurprisingly named Sôca Trail, typically completed by catching a bus to the start upstream, then walking back to Bovec. Unfortunately though the bus had stopped running for the season!

Furthermore, I tried to dig the knowledge of the guy at the campsite….but cycling particularly (off road) sounded limited, and the hiking suggestions did not excite.

For the evening I went into the village, and found a real ale bar, “Thirsty Rivers Brewing”, plus a basic burger….and live entertainment from a young girl plus guitar singing UK and US classics….included Wonderwall, Wish You Were Here and Beatles stuff…

The following morning I decided to make a list of accessible sites to visit, then do a combo road trip / short bike day. It lasted one waterfall! For some reason I felt lethargic, so I returned to my tent, had a Kip…felt better…and set off to a small lake (Krn) in the mountains.

The road ran out , 5km from the lake, into a rough track. I asked two guys on bikes if it were possible to ride up to the lake on my gravel bike….they assured me it was….it took me longer to sort my bike out than the ride!

Not sure what they were referring to, but the only access was a very narrow, rocky and steep path…that clearly stated  “bikes prohibited”??

So bike back in car, and spent some time on the Sôca Valley, stopping occasionally to check out the small gorges, and rapids..it is a very attractive river..with stunning blues and white water, with that magnificent massif backdrop.

But overall, I have been a little disappointed with this region..Perhaps I’d have been better staying nearer Bled, at Kranjska Gora..there seemed to be more possibilities for trail riding there? 

A couple more beers in the village, and by the morning, on the move again.

So that was Slovenia! ** see next stage! The one place I really wanted to visit..in conclusion though, without doubt I’ve been very spoilt, but overall I was a tad disappointed. Lake Bled itself is very photogenic, but the surrounding hills are nothing special and mainly forest covered.

The journey into the Julian Alps was very impressive, but it’s not an extensive area, and those scenes of all the cars parked in every conceivable spot, almost from the bottom of the  Vrsic Pass to the top was tbh bloody awful! And to be told that in July and August it’s even busier..?how could it be? And the lack of bike trails and decent walks in the Bovic area was disappointing…

Where to next? 🤷‍♂️😜😎