EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 10 - Kranjska Gora (Slovenia)

Stage 10 - Kransjka Gora - Slovenia - 9th Oct to 11th

So, when I returned from the bar on the last night in Bovic, I conducted some quick research (in my tent!) on Lake Balaton in Hungary, and it didn’t sound very enticing. Their mountains (only on part of the north side) are rather flat, and simply I wasn’t attracted, it wasn’t selling itself whatsoever 🤷‍♂️

And I had to kill 4 nights before visiting my pal in Vienna next Friday. I didn’t fancy 4 nights there!

Also at the back of my mind, although I had driven through the place twice, returning to Lake Bled and on the way to Bovic….I suspected I had missed an opportunity in Kranjska Gora, on the opposite side of the Vrsic Pass. Again, some quick research and it did seem to confirm that I had.

So off I set off over the pass…and this time, it was a contrast to last (sunny) Saturday….pretty quiet,certainly not a repeat of the masses of cars.

I popped into the tourist information at Kranjska, for some biking and hiking info, but decided on the campsite just 4km down the road, at Camp Spik. And what a great choice, a very lovely welcome 😘 and a view to die for, looking towards the dramatic profile of part of the Julian Alps, and a very quiet site too (in fact the lady on reception stated that last Saturday was a bit freaky with the number of people (mainly locals) that rolled out in the October sunshine, and, she was also familiar with Lake Balaton, and agreed with the conclusion of my research!). 

(For ref: 20 euros per night)

Through the info received, and the lady on reception, I planned a cycle route…to Italy and back! Seriously!! All along the valley (Sava) is an old railway line, mainly with tarmac, but also planned some detours, generally climbing out of the valley to experience these points of interest: Lake Jasna (together with the Ibex statue); Zelenci nature reserve; Tarvisio (Italy) and Lake Fusine and a World Championship Ski centre at Planica, and an elevated valley well up and beyond.

The diversions off the valley trail have that mountain backdrop experience, although it would’ve been quite bland…with some significant climbs, the views were very nice, especially with the lakes in the foreground.

I drove into (was going to cycle) Kranjska for an evening meal (Gnocchi with a Gorgonzola sauce, plus a local desert: sweet cheese dumplings with cream….was quite nice!).

The next day I decided on a hiking day, and using Komoot, started from the top of the  Vrsic Pass, sort of ticked the boxes, although a little too much climbing through thick forest (I put my music on to make some noise, in case of those pesky bears! Then worrying they may be attracted by a bit of dance chillout! 😂 Suffice to say, I got chatting to a local girl at the finish, who reassured me that there aren’t any bears in that region, 😂 something about Wolves, but not sure where she meant! 😳). 

 Eventually, and with a lot of climbing, I got the views I wanted, surrounded by an amazing vista, although I stayed below the buttress level….I wasn’t confident on the routes to the tops, as quite a few folk at the pass top had climbing gear with them. 🤷‍♂️

The same girl, above, had just done a hiking route to a peak top, and she explained the route, so my plan was to perhaps return, if I stay in Slovenia for two more days?

For a very rare occasion I improvised with a branch to make a walking stick. And recognised both with the steep ascents and descents how it definitely helped both ways….I’d also noticed how most hikers of all ages and standards use sticks….so on my return to Kranjska I popped into a shop, and apparently I need the variable length (longer for downhill) telescopic set. Unfortunately they had none in stock! Watch this space…

From there I drove east down the valley, to check out the Pericnik Waterfall, which was quite impressive….see photos.

As the afternoon progressed though, from contemplating staying here for 4 nights, I started thinking I’d like to move on….possibly to Hungary, I’ll sleep on it! 😊

 

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 9 - Julian Alps - Bovec (Slovenia)

Stage 9 - The Sôca Valley - Julian Alps - Bovec - Sat 7th Oct to Mon 9th Oct

So off I set into the mountains…saying farewell to my lovely chatty camp neighbours (Jonathon:French and Gaia: Italian)….first, the climb over Vrsic pass.

Quite a climb! Right into the heart of the Julian Alps….it was a Saturday, and not a cloud in the sky….explaining perhaps why this natural beauty was spoilt by the huge numbers of visitors, there wasn’t an impossible spot left to dump a car, it was that bad.

Later I commented my observations to the guy at the campsite , and he said it’s worse in July and August, how could it be!?

I eventually descended along the beautiful Sôca River, to my target destination, Bovec. The activity centre of the region….very quickly I was set up on a nearby campsite, and jumped on the bicicleta for a spin up and down the valley……

It was an ok ride, but the planned trail was blocked due to work, so I returned a little early, still 2 hours…not all but an emphasis on outdoor activities are based around the River Sôca, from kayaking, white water rafting to canyoning….

Also there is a well worn trail, the not unsurprisingly named Sôca Trail, typically completed by catching a bus to the start upstream, then walking back to Bovec. Unfortunately though the bus had stopped running for the season!

Furthermore, I tried to dig the knowledge of the guy at the campsite….but cycling particularly (off road) sounded limited, and the hiking suggestions did not excite.

For the evening I went into the village, and found a real ale bar, “Thirsty Rivers Brewing”, plus a basic burger….and live entertainment from a young girl plus guitar singing UK and US classics….included Wonderwall, Wish You Were Here and Beatles stuff…

The following morning I decided to make a list of accessible sites to visit, then do a combo road trip / short bike day. It lasted one waterfall! For some reason I felt lethargic, so I returned to my tent, had a Kip…felt better…and set off to a small lake (Krn) in the mountains.

The road ran out , 5km from the lake, into a rough track. I asked two guys on bikes if it were possible to ride up to the lake on my gravel bike….they assured me it was….it took me longer to sort my bike out than the ride!

Not sure what they were referring to, but the only access was a very narrow, rocky and steep path…that clearly stated  “bikes prohibited”??

So bike back in car, and spent some time on the Sôca Valley, stopping occasionally to check out the small gorges, and rapids..it is a very attractive river..with stunning blues and white water, with that magnificent massif backdrop.

But overall, I have been a little disappointed with this region..Perhaps I’d have been better staying nearer Bled, at Kranjska Gora..there seemed to be more possibilities for trail riding there? 

A couple more beers in the village, and by the morning, on the move again.

So that was Slovenia! ** see next stage! The one place I really wanted to visit..in conclusion though, without doubt I’ve been very spoilt, but overall I was a tad disappointed. Lake Bled itself is very photogenic, but the surrounding hills are nothing special and mainly forest covered.

The journey into the Julian Alps was very impressive, but it’s not an extensive area, and those scenes of all the cars parked in every conceivable spot, almost from the bottom of the  Vrsic Pass to the top was tbh bloody awful! And to be told that in July and August it’s even busier..?how could it be? And the lack of bike trails and decent walks in the Bovic area was disappointing…

Where to next? 🤷‍♂️😜😎

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 8 - Lake Bled - (Slovenia )

Stage 8 - Lake Bled - Slovenia - 4th October to 7th

For the first time  I awoke to a mixed cloudy morning, but still excited to drive a further 2 hours east, this time to Pragser Wildsee...unfortunately the cloud continued, arriving there, also called Lake Braies, it really was a beautiful setting. Only a small lake, but even under cloud cover, an azure blue.

The backdrop I'm sure would've been as impressive as what the standard has become in the Dolomites, but it wasn't playing today! Although this did not deter the droves of tourists...photo click opportunities galore; selfies, and Instagram poses in every direction...I don't associate with "these", I'm clearly a true traveller snob!

The car park was 15 mins gratis, I must have been there barely 25 mins....15 euros! WTF!!

It got worse. I drove the 40 mins to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo....a spectacular triple rock massif. Alas, it was still cloudy when I arrived, but to drive right up to the spectacular, it was €30 - with a road barriers and pay kiosks. Fvck off! This is nature...you money grabbing....🤬😤🤬

This was my most easterly planned spot in Italy, and with the forecast cloudy the next day...I didn't see any point in hanging around 🤷‍♂️

So Slovenia here we come! Another 4 hours, and I'd already done nearly 3..but travelling and sight seeing is different, although I did get tired on this one, even switching the music off in the car! Not a good sign.

I crossed into Austria (buying another vignette...I didn't even know I was going into Austria!)...and eventually arrived at a misty moody Lake Bled.

I'd made it!! Slovenia was always my hope, but back in the UK I was unsure I would make it this far east...mainly I guess if the weather turned....and the forecast for the next few days is more sunshine! Fingers crossed.

The campsite (for ref: €15 per night with wifi and elec!) was close to the lake at the top end, and I decided on 3 nights, expecting plenty to fill the time. On the first morning , as it was forecast to be a mixed cloudy sunny day, I decided to drive the 45 mins to the capital Ljubljana, for some kultcha…well tbh, I needed some contact lenses urgently, and a gas refill would be welcome. I achieved both, and also went up to the castle, walked through the old town etc TICK ✅ 😂

I was back at the campsite by 2pm, so decided to do a bike ride to a rival lake (according to Lonely Planets, Lake Bohinj ) so off I went, firstly mainly down a valley….finding an acceptable amount of gravel…the lake was ok, but nothing like as nice as Lake Bled. 

Then I returned! It must have taken me three times longer…a huge smooth road climb that went on for ever, passing some nice mountain villages, for most I sort of enjoyed…but then after a plateau it started climbing again….through thick pine woods, and it was getting dark. Isolated…Bears! I thought, am I in bear country again? Sure enough, I later found out I was!

Eventually, I hit the inevitable descent down down into Bled. I did consider if Roglic and Pogocar ** did their training on this road, and later again, found out that the National Hill Climb champs are on it, but on the ascent where I dropped down to Bled. Pogocar won in 2021 and 2022 but didn’t compete this year.

The reward para mi, for a rather unexpected tougher ride than I thought at the start, was a rather poor meal in the camp restaurant, “Viennese Chicken” sounded nice on the menu, in reality it was very school dinner like…deep fried breadcrumbed reconstituted chicken….followed by Bled Cream Cake…a slab of custard with some coconut and pastry on the top 🤷‍♂️ Lonely Planets is not complimentary at all about the local cuisine!

The following day, I decided on a hike to the nearby Vintgar Gorge. And impressive it was too, although I did a “Midnight Express” (under 40 year olds ask yer parents!). 

On the approach, everyone was walking towards me. Eventually I joked to a couple, and they said the gorge was only permitted one way?? Surely not? It was true….I’d walked too far, and so rebelled! There were some narrow parts, where I had to be rather strategic, but worse was to come….at the end were one way turnstiles, and a pay kiosk (€10 which I object to btw anyway)….I surprisingly smoothly vaulted the turnstiles, and walked past the staff with confidence, with some surprise on their faces! Always the rebel!  And didn’t pay a penny!

Eventually back at my car (after a lovely contoured but elevated walk back, with everyone walking towards me 😂)….it was only 1.30pm. So I picked a lake that was only 40km away….and off I went.

Fvckin L 🤬 It was 25km into Austria 🇦🇹 - which meant I went through the toll tunnel (Karawanks), 8km long, and a toll too….but bloody Austria..anyway the lake was ok (near Villach). I pulled over, switched off “toll roads” and “motorways” from Google Maps and set off. 

The universe (obviously) wanted me to go wrong, and re enter Austria 😜 The return journey, albeit 40mins longer….was stunning! This is what I had expected from Slovenia. Lake Bled itself is very nice, but the surrounding hills etc are nice but nothing to get excited about…

Now I was driving through part of the Julian Alps, but first over the Wurzenpass, one of the only two access routes from Austria to Slovenia pre the tunnel (the other pass being the Loibl Pass)….and then the mountains came into view, not too dissimilar to the Dolomites (well, geographically they are simply a continuation 🤷‍♂️)….this is what I expected from Slovenia.

Returning back to camp, more excited now about the following day, because the plan was to move on, westward anyway, over the Vrsic Pass, through the heart of the Alps….

** rather good pro cyclists from Slovenia 🇸🇮 

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 7 - Alpe di Siusi - Dolomites (Italy)

Stage 7 - Dolomites - Alpe di Siusi 2nd to 4th October

Surprisingly a fair chunk out of two hours, heading generally north east. I expected lots of stunning consistent scenery, a bit like crossing Switzerland, but it became quite urban and busy, with a toll motorway, seemingly taking many Germans back to their homeland (I was going to write Fatherland, but not sure that's acceptable, so I won't 😜).

Suddenly though these amazing mountain shapes came into view, to call them "sawtooth" really would be an understatement...really awe inspiring....these were the massif of Alpe di Siusi, but I decided to persevere to Val di Funes.

Again through a lower valley with a full on packed motorway, but about 10km from a turn, I climbed into the hanging valley of the valley, with another amazing backdrop. The valley was lovely too, so I pulled over to find a campsite.

There weren't any at all, in fact Siusi was the best bet, and I had to go that way anyway....so after about 40 mins I'd got a spot on a campsite (29 Euro per night for ref) with a full blown direct ñview of the Alpe di Siusi backdrop from my tent.

I did a recce in the early evening up and down the valley, and again had a pizza in Siusi and two beers!

The following morning, I decided to take the cable car from Siusi up to over 5,000ft to Compaccio, the start point of the Tour Gröden, essentially a circuit of three seperate mesmeric mountain massifs, also including dropping into two villages. The second, Santa Ulrich I decided, sensibly, to catch another gondola to take me back up, as I'd lost a lot of height dropping into The Valley.

The route was supposed to be a red route but it was absolutely fine (Italians do exaggerate!). I was overwhelmed though by E-MTBs often getting overtaken on some of the long ascents 😫. Also I kept hooking up with a Finish family who were on the same route, they were really nice...especially the Mum! I must visit Finland 😘

Back at the Compaccio gondola I had two beers, a panino and an Apple strudel (btw this región of Italy is totally German, must be history to it?).

I took the tarmac road all the way down to Siusi, with exhilarating speed ! 

To complete possibly the best bike ride I've done, certainly on this trip.❤️

But where to next, one last Dolomites stopover, but further east?🤷‍♂️