EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 8 - Lake Bled - (Slovenia )

Stage 8 - Lake Bled - Slovenia - 4th October to 7th

For the first time  I awoke to a mixed cloudy morning, but still excited to drive a further 2 hours east, this time to Pragser Wildsee...unfortunately the cloud continued, arriving there, also called Lake Braies, it really was a beautiful setting. Only a small lake, but even under cloud cover, an azure blue.

The backdrop I'm sure would've been as impressive as what the standard has become in the Dolomites, but it wasn't playing today! Although this did not deter the droves of tourists...photo click opportunities galore; selfies, and Instagram poses in every direction...I don't associate with "these", I'm clearly a true traveller snob!

The car park was 15 mins gratis, I must have been there barely 25 mins....15 euros! WTF!!

It got worse. I drove the 40 mins to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo....a spectacular triple rock massif. Alas, it was still cloudy when I arrived, but to drive right up to the spectacular, it was €30 - with a road barriers and pay kiosks. Fvck off! This is nature...you money grabbing....🤬😤🤬

This was my most easterly planned spot in Italy, and with the forecast cloudy the next day...I didn't see any point in hanging around 🤷‍♂️

So Slovenia here we come! Another 4 hours, and I'd already done nearly 3..but travelling and sight seeing is different, although I did get tired on this one, even switching the music off in the car! Not a good sign.

I crossed into Austria (buying another vignette...I didn't even know I was going into Austria!)...and eventually arrived at a misty moody Lake Bled.

I'd made it!! Slovenia was always my hope, but back in the UK I was unsure I would make it this far east...mainly I guess if the weather turned....and the forecast for the next few days is more sunshine! Fingers crossed.

The campsite (for ref: €15 per night with wifi and elec!) was close to the lake at the top end, and I decided on 3 nights, expecting plenty to fill the time. On the first morning , as it was forecast to be a mixed cloudy sunny day, I decided to drive the 45 mins to the capital Ljubljana, for some kultcha…well tbh, I needed some contact lenses urgently, and a gas refill would be welcome. I achieved both, and also went up to the castle, walked through the old town etc TICK ✅ 😂

I was back at the campsite by 2pm, so decided to do a bike ride to a rival lake (according to Lonely Planets, Lake Bohinj ) so off I went, firstly mainly down a valley….finding an acceptable amount of gravel…the lake was ok, but nothing like as nice as Lake Bled. 

Then I returned! It must have taken me three times longer…a huge smooth road climb that went on for ever, passing some nice mountain villages, for most I sort of enjoyed…but then after a plateau it started climbing again….through thick pine woods, and it was getting dark. Isolated…Bears! I thought, am I in bear country again? Sure enough, I later found out I was!

Eventually, I hit the inevitable descent down down into Bled. I did consider if Roglic and Pogocar ** did their training on this road, and later again, found out that the National Hill Climb champs are on it, but on the ascent where I dropped down to Bled. Pogocar won in 2021 and 2022 but didn’t compete this year.

The reward para mi, for a rather unexpected tougher ride than I thought at the start, was a rather poor meal in the camp restaurant, “Viennese Chicken” sounded nice on the menu, in reality it was very school dinner like…deep fried breadcrumbed reconstituted chicken….followed by Bled Cream Cake…a slab of custard with some coconut and pastry on the top 🤷‍♂️ Lonely Planets is not complimentary at all about the local cuisine!

The following day, I decided on a hike to the nearby Vintgar Gorge. And impressive it was too, although I did a “Midnight Express” (under 40 year olds ask yer parents!). 

On the approach, everyone was walking towards me. Eventually I joked to a couple, and they said the gorge was only permitted one way?? Surely not? It was true….I’d walked too far, and so rebelled! There were some narrow parts, where I had to be rather strategic, but worse was to come….at the end were one way turnstiles, and a pay kiosk (€10 which I object to btw anyway)….I surprisingly smoothly vaulted the turnstiles, and walked past the staff with confidence, with some surprise on their faces! Always the rebel!  And didn’t pay a penny!

Eventually back at my car (after a lovely contoured but elevated walk back, with everyone walking towards me 😂)….it was only 1.30pm. So I picked a lake that was only 40km away….and off I went.

Fvckin L 🤬 It was 25km into Austria 🇦🇹 - which meant I went through the toll tunnel (Karawanks), 8km long, and a toll too….but bloody Austria..anyway the lake was ok (near Villach). I pulled over, switched off “toll roads” and “motorways” from Google Maps and set off. 

The universe (obviously) wanted me to go wrong, and re enter Austria 😜 The return journey, albeit 40mins longer….was stunning! This is what I had expected from Slovenia. Lake Bled itself is very nice, but the surrounding hills etc are nice but nothing to get excited about…

Now I was driving through part of the Julian Alps, but first over the Wurzenpass, one of the only two access routes from Austria to Slovenia pre the tunnel (the other pass being the Loibl Pass)….and then the mountains came into view, not too dissimilar to the Dolomites (well, geographically they are simply a continuation 🤷‍♂️)….this is what I expected from Slovenia.

Returning back to camp, more excited now about the following day, because the plan was to move on, westward anyway, over the Vrsic Pass, through the heart of the Alps….

** rather good pro cyclists from Slovenia 🇸🇮 

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 7 - Alpe di Siusi - Dolomites (Italy)

Stage 7 - Dolomites - Alpe di Siusi 2nd to 4th October

Surprisingly a fair chunk out of two hours, heading generally north east. I expected lots of stunning consistent scenery, a bit like crossing Switzerland, but it became quite urban and busy, with a toll motorway, seemingly taking many Germans back to their homeland (I was going to write Fatherland, but not sure that's acceptable, so I won't 😜).

Suddenly though these amazing mountain shapes came into view, to call them "sawtooth" really would be an understatement...really awe inspiring....these were the massif of Alpe di Siusi, but I decided to persevere to Val di Funes.

Again through a lower valley with a full on packed motorway, but about 10km from a turn, I climbed into the hanging valley of the valley, with another amazing backdrop. The valley was lovely too, so I pulled over to find a campsite.

There weren't any at all, in fact Siusi was the best bet, and I had to go that way anyway....so after about 40 mins I'd got a spot on a campsite (29 Euro per night for ref) with a full blown direct ñview of the Alpe di Siusi backdrop from my tent.

I did a recce in the early evening up and down the valley, and again had a pizza in Siusi and two beers!

The following morning, I decided to take the cable car from Siusi up to over 5,000ft to Compaccio, the start point of the Tour Gröden, essentially a circuit of three seperate mesmeric mountain massifs, also including dropping into two villages. The second, Santa Ulrich I decided, sensibly, to catch another gondola to take me back up, as I'd lost a lot of height dropping into The Valley.

The route was supposed to be a red route but it was absolutely fine (Italians do exaggerate!). I was overwhelmed though by E-MTBs often getting overtaken on some of the long ascents 😫. Also I kept hooking up with a Finish family who were on the same route, they were really nice...especially the Mum! I must visit Finland 😘

Back at the Compaccio gondola I had two beers, a panino and an Apple strudel (btw this región of Italy is totally German, must be history to it?).

I took the tarmac road all the way down to Siusi, with exhilarating speed ! 

To complete possibly the best bike ride I've done, certainly on this trip.❤️

But where to next, one last Dolomites stopover, but further east?🤷‍♂️

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 6 - NOT Lake Garda 😘 (Italy)

Stage 6 - Lake Garda

I was expecting a scenic journey from Lake Como to Garda....but first there are a series of lengthy tunnels concealing any views of Como, but the route dropped out of the mountains and became slow and urban, including Brescia and Bergamo. The traffic was quite heavy, and then there are crazy Italian drivers....tailgating at speed is insufficient, some will then take an inside lane to then squeeze back in front, even when there's hardly any gain. Italian men 🤷‍♂️😂

If I thought the initial impression of Lake Como was poor, heck, Garda was truly awful. Yes, take away people and cars, I guess it's quite attractive (although not in the Alpine league)....but it was snided. Worse than Como though, the valley is even tighter....queues of cars and buses, often getting stuck behind cyclists of all varieties, who even used the plentiful tunnels.

On advice I went to the far north, Riva del Garda, apparently a centre for outdoor activities, and in the foothills of the Alps...but that was packed too....I went to one campsite, and the nice lady suggested I should drive an hour further on, to Lake Molveno - she said Garda was full of Germans, who's school hols haven't finished yet...all campsites would be full of mobile homes of various varieties....I didn't want to stay anyway, so off north I went, for another hour....

Stage 6 Proper - Lago Molveno - Brenta Dolomites 30th Sept to 2nd October

And what a lucky escape that was! I'd always wanted to visit the Italian lakes, almost like I was missing out...but really, Como was OK, but Garda was awful....I won't return.

The topography changes dramatically. Tbh I didn't realise I was in the Dolomites, albeit a western corner....The Brenta Dolomites. And Molveno is in such a beautiful location, by the lake, but with an amazing backdrop of those sawtooth peaks....mesmerising. I got a spot on a very busy campsite (for ref 34€ per night, most expensive yet), but it didn't matter.

I had to try the pizza in the evening, when in Rome, well, Italy...and it was nice: Quattro Stagioni!

I'd planned a route for the morning, although a little concerned about the do ability of the terrain. So before I left the village, I had a chat with a nice guy at a MTB hire place. He verified it and thought the gravel bike may struggle in just one part of the route....good enough for me!

So up the valley, to a slighter larger ski resort, Ándalo, to catch a gondola, up to over 5,000ft (well, I wasn't going to climb that high up from the valley, THROUGH BLOODY TREES too!). And what a cracker of a ride! The first section undulated, but more or less stayed at the high level, facing opposite those quintessential sawtooth peaks of the Dolomites.

The difficult section, was barely 400m, and I even managed to force ride sections (I'm dangerously slowly getting fitter, and having to find my old climbing legs!).

Most of it was perfect gravel, with occasional sections that were a little too bumpy. I simply had to take it steady...I eventually came to huge multi hairpin single track road, that went on forever....the valley floor seemingly not getting any closer! 

Some lovely villages (see the mural from one) and soon I was sat by a small lake: Lago di Nembia - beautiful, calming, the BOLLIX! LTD en serio ❤️

Gravel all the way back into Molveno adjacent the lake, followed by 45 mins of sat on the grass, basking in the sun, I even took my socks off! It really is a lovely all round resort...but I'd guess a far greater proportion of visitors are "active" in some way, MTB probably the biggest sport.

If this is a taster of these Dolomites, I cannot wait for the next few days, and the gorgeous forecast continues!

So on my journey again in the morning, after more pizza....and soon to be more Dolomites!

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 5 - Lake Como - (Italy)

Stage 5 - Lake Como - Italy - 27th Sept to 30th

The original plan was to travel clockwise and the next port of call was to be Lucerne. Two things: I couldn't get excited about Lucerne or Bavaria, and the main reason, Italy and Slovenia were always my favourites before I set off. I could be wrong of course, time will tell...apologies to Bavaria and Lucerne!

And the weather in Italy was like Summer, and extending for a number of days. And it could change any time soon?  That helps!

So leaving Lauterbrunnen, but first a visit to the local bike mechanic, I accidentally dropped my bike and bent the gear hangar....all sorted. But good chat with the two boys (Aussie and Brit) - they were saying that the tourist numbers to the village are well up on pre Covid. But the ambition of those tourists have changed. The vast majority just wander around the villages and towns, look for that key social media photo, and sit in cafes etc without exploring whatsoever the environment. I know people like that, I mused! But, seriously, it wasn't helping their business, interesting though 🤷‍♂️

So off I set, but to Lake Como - a four hour plus drive, but with the scenery I experienced who cares! I'd never heard of the Susten Pass, on the map, I guess in the Alps it is one of many...but bloody hell! What a climb over, and what views, really amazing...if it were in France, I guess it would've been more well known as it would be on the Tour de France!

Also, and I'm not sure why, I missed the Gothard Tunnel....and instead went over the pass, but I'm not sure I ever saw a choice! I did see a huge queue on an adjacent road, and expected to join it, I guess the pass was more scenic!

Soon I was in Italy, the traffic increased, of course traversing across Lugano, and then adjacent the Lake for quite a while....my Google Maps dropped me off at Menaggio, which looked very nice on the lakeside, but it was rammed. I needed to escape....so I drove towards the north end of the lake Domaso, got some info from a Tourist Info place and a recommendation of a local campsite.

Nightmare! About 7 campsites all side by side, absolutely rammed with campervans and mobile homes, I mean, shanti town style....friggin no way, and that's a holiday?? anyhow, two more stabs, and I found myself at the top of the lake, further actually, adjacent the river that joins the two lakes (Mezzola, the second smaller one), in a place called Sorico, surprisingly I guess, I did fear the worst, I found a lovely quiet site, with some v friendly peeps. Two nights booked in...for reference 14 euros per night!

Early evening, I jumped on my bike, and cycled along the lakeside track all the way back to Domoso, scoffing as I passed the peeps sat outside in the shanti towns! And settled at a lakeside restaurant, for a meal and a couple of beers, as we all observed the sunset over the lake, and particularly looking across at the very tempting and imposing, Monte Legnone * 😘

The ride back was "ace", it's a long time since I've done any nighttime riding, but with my new lights and head torch it was super enjoyable, in fact I extended it passed my site until I reached the end of the trail.

The following morning I planned a double bike ride. The first was OK, the second was a disaster. I suspected with the tight valley and steep sides, unless lots of climbing was welcome, this was going to be not easy to plan. However the first one was an intentional climb, "just" above the campsite....well it took 30 mins and lots of hairpins on impossibly narrow roads to reach the start point (and who would want to live up there: "just popping out for some milk and bread, see you in two hours!")....

The first ride was to the summit, of sorts of Monte Mezzo, more of a mountain community, views were ok, but due to the height very hazy....I did plan to go higher, but couldn't see the point...and I knew the descent would be very tentative, as really this was full suspension MTB territory.

Two hours later I set off on ride number two....the plan was a 50k ride but more on the lakeside, but initially I had to get over some climbs through the trees. Well, firstly the climbing was relentless, and eventually I "retired" as the so called MTB trails were impossible, in fact I had to regularly carry the bike, never mind push...very frustrating, even Danny Macasgill would struggle on these (ok, perhaps he particularly wouldn't!).

I returned to the riverside, sat in the shade under a tree, and relaxed! In the evening, I returned to Domoso for beer and dinner.

Packing away, I couldn't help but keep observing Monte Legnone opposite the lake, all nearly 9,000ft of it....so of course, after packing up...off I went...but first to the start point, another 30 mins of climbing in the car! 

The climb took me almost exactly 3 hours, all of it climbing , with some parts especially the last part very steep and rocky, with short sections of vía Ferrata, the air became thin, the breathing typically laboured but the views compensated. 

It was even possible to pick out the Matterhorn on the horizon, and also Monte Rosa, the highest mountain in Italy. * check! There was some haze, but generally quite spectacular.

The descent was (like Mallorca) more of a toil, sometimes it's harder descending, especially when it's really gnarly and rocky.

Probably descended just 30 mins quicker than the ascent, by which time it was after 5pm, and Lake Garda was a chunk of 3 hours away....so I returned to my friendly campsite for one more night....then in the morning could chill, and set off when ready.