EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 6 - NOT Lake Garda 😘 (Italy)

Stage 6 - Lake Garda

I was expecting a scenic journey from Lake Como to Garda....but first there are a series of lengthy tunnels concealing any views of Como, but the route dropped out of the mountains and became slow and urban, including Brescia and Bergamo. The traffic was quite heavy, and then there are crazy Italian drivers....tailgating at speed is insufficient, some will then take an inside lane to then squeeze back in front, even when there's hardly any gain. Italian men 🤷‍♂️😂

If I thought the initial impression of Lake Como was poor, heck, Garda was truly awful. Yes, take away people and cars, I guess it's quite attractive (although not in the Alpine league)....but it was snided. Worse than Como though, the valley is even tighter....queues of cars and buses, often getting stuck behind cyclists of all varieties, who even used the plentiful tunnels.

On advice I went to the far north, Riva del Garda, apparently a centre for outdoor activities, and in the foothills of the Alps...but that was packed too....I went to one campsite, and the nice lady suggested I should drive an hour further on, to Lake Molveno - she said Garda was full of Germans, who's school hols haven't finished yet...all campsites would be full of mobile homes of various varieties....I didn't want to stay anyway, so off north I went, for another hour....

Stage 6 Proper - Lago Molveno - Brenta Dolomites 30th Sept to 2nd October

And what a lucky escape that was! I'd always wanted to visit the Italian lakes, almost like I was missing out...but really, Como was OK, but Garda was awful....I won't return.

The topography changes dramatically. Tbh I didn't realise I was in the Dolomites, albeit a western corner....The Brenta Dolomites. And Molveno is in such a beautiful location, by the lake, but with an amazing backdrop of those sawtooth peaks....mesmerising. I got a spot on a very busy campsite (for ref 34€ per night, most expensive yet), but it didn't matter.

I had to try the pizza in the evening, when in Rome, well, Italy...and it was nice: Quattro Stagioni!

I'd planned a route for the morning, although a little concerned about the do ability of the terrain. So before I left the village, I had a chat with a nice guy at a MTB hire place. He verified it and thought the gravel bike may struggle in just one part of the route....good enough for me!

So up the valley, to a slighter larger ski resort, Ándalo, to catch a gondola, up to over 5,000ft (well, I wasn't going to climb that high up from the valley, THROUGH BLOODY TREES too!). And what a cracker of a ride! The first section undulated, but more or less stayed at the high level, facing opposite those quintessential sawtooth peaks of the Dolomites.

The difficult section, was barely 400m, and I even managed to force ride sections (I'm dangerously slowly getting fitter, and having to find my old climbing legs!).

Most of it was perfect gravel, with occasional sections that were a little too bumpy. I simply had to take it steady...I eventually came to huge multi hairpin single track road, that went on forever....the valley floor seemingly not getting any closer! 

Some lovely villages (see the mural from one) and soon I was sat by a small lake: Lago di Nembia - beautiful, calming, the BOLLIX! LTD en serio ❤️

Gravel all the way back into Molveno adjacent the lake, followed by 45 mins of sat on the grass, basking in the sun, I even took my socks off! It really is a lovely all round resort...but I'd guess a far greater proportion of visitors are "active" in some way, MTB probably the biggest sport.

If this is a taster of these Dolomites, I cannot wait for the next few days, and the gorgeous forecast continues!

So on my journey again in the morning, after more pizza....and soon to be more Dolomites!

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 5 - Lake Como - (Italy)

Stage 5 - Lake Como - Italy - 27th Sept to 30th

The original plan was to travel clockwise and the next port of call was to be Lucerne. Two things: I couldn't get excited about Lucerne or Bavaria, and the main reason, Italy and Slovenia were always my favourites before I set off. I could be wrong of course, time will tell...apologies to Bavaria and Lucerne!

And the weather in Italy was like Summer, and extending for a number of days. And it could change any time soon?  That helps!

So leaving Lauterbrunnen, but first a visit to the local bike mechanic, I accidentally dropped my bike and bent the gear hangar....all sorted. But good chat with the two boys (Aussie and Brit) - they were saying that the tourist numbers to the village are well up on pre Covid. But the ambition of those tourists have changed. The vast majority just wander around the villages and towns, look for that key social media photo, and sit in cafes etc without exploring whatsoever the environment. I know people like that, I mused! But, seriously, it wasn't helping their business, interesting though 🤷‍♂️

So off I set, but to Lake Como - a four hour plus drive, but with the scenery I experienced who cares! I'd never heard of the Susten Pass, on the map, I guess in the Alps it is one of many...but bloody hell! What a climb over, and what views, really amazing...if it were in France, I guess it would've been more well known as it would be on the Tour de France!

Also, and I'm not sure why, I missed the Gothard Tunnel....and instead went over the pass, but I'm not sure I ever saw a choice! I did see a huge queue on an adjacent road, and expected to join it, I guess the pass was more scenic!

Soon I was in Italy, the traffic increased, of course traversing across Lugano, and then adjacent the Lake for quite a while....my Google Maps dropped me off at Menaggio, which looked very nice on the lakeside, but it was rammed. I needed to escape....so I drove towards the north end of the lake Domaso, got some info from a Tourist Info place and a recommendation of a local campsite.

Nightmare! About 7 campsites all side by side, absolutely rammed with campervans and mobile homes, I mean, shanti town style....friggin no way, and that's a holiday?? anyhow, two more stabs, and I found myself at the top of the lake, further actually, adjacent the river that joins the two lakes (Mezzola, the second smaller one), in a place called Sorico, surprisingly I guess, I did fear the worst, I found a lovely quiet site, with some v friendly peeps. Two nights booked in...for reference 14 euros per night!

Early evening, I jumped on my bike, and cycled along the lakeside track all the way back to Domoso, scoffing as I passed the peeps sat outside in the shanti towns! And settled at a lakeside restaurant, for a meal and a couple of beers, as we all observed the sunset over the lake, and particularly looking across at the very tempting and imposing, Monte Legnone * 😘

The ride back was "ace", it's a long time since I've done any nighttime riding, but with my new lights and head torch it was super enjoyable, in fact I extended it passed my site until I reached the end of the trail.

The following morning I planned a double bike ride. The first was OK, the second was a disaster. I suspected with the tight valley and steep sides, unless lots of climbing was welcome, this was going to be not easy to plan. However the first one was an intentional climb, "just" above the campsite....well it took 30 mins and lots of hairpins on impossibly narrow roads to reach the start point (and who would want to live up there: "just popping out for some milk and bread, see you in two hours!")....

The first ride was to the summit, of sorts of Monte Mezzo, more of a mountain community, views were ok, but due to the height very hazy....I did plan to go higher, but couldn't see the point...and I knew the descent would be very tentative, as really this was full suspension MTB territory.

Two hours later I set off on ride number two....the plan was a 50k ride but more on the lakeside, but initially I had to get over some climbs through the trees. Well, firstly the climbing was relentless, and eventually I "retired" as the so called MTB trails were impossible, in fact I had to regularly carry the bike, never mind push...very frustrating, even Danny Macasgill would struggle on these (ok, perhaps he particularly wouldn't!).

I returned to the riverside, sat in the shade under a tree, and relaxed! In the evening, I returned to Domoso for beer and dinner.

Packing away, I couldn't help but keep observing Monte Legnone opposite the lake, all nearly 9,000ft of it....so of course, after packing up...off I went...but first to the start point, another 30 mins of climbing in the car! 

The climb took me almost exactly 3 hours, all of it climbing , with some parts especially the last part very steep and rocky, with short sections of vía Ferrata, the air became thin, the breathing typically laboured but the views compensated. 

It was even possible to pick out the Matterhorn on the horizon, and also Monte Rosa, the highest mountain in Italy. * check! There was some haze, but generally quite spectacular.

The descent was (like Mallorca) more of a toil, sometimes it's harder descending, especially when it's really gnarly and rocky.

Probably descended just 30 mins quicker than the ascent, by which time it was after 5pm, and Lake Garda was a chunk of 3 hours away....so I returned to my friendly campsite for one more night....then in the morning could chill, and set off when ready.

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 4 - Lauterbrunnen (Suisse)

Stage 4 - Lauterbrunnen (Switzerland ) 25th Sept to 27th

It was about a 2 hour drive from Zermatt, but it could've been much longer! The Google Maps seemed to be guiding me typically just fine, but took me to a rail station in the middle of the mountains...firstly I carried straight on, but G Maps was insisting I do a U turn, back to the rail station! 

I studied the map, but any alternative was a long way round, but as I was setting off, incorrectly, noticed the entry to a car train ferry! Within 2 mins and approx 27 euros lighter, I'm sat on a car train, and going through a lengthy tunnel: The Lötschberg Tunnel.

Eventually revealing more stunning Alpine views, through a valley of ski villages, soon arriving at Thunersee, with a brief stop at Spiez...just touching on Interlaken, I decided to go straight to Lauterbrunnen,. I recalled the drive from 23 years ago, with the family, and for a moment I found it slightly emotional.

Campsite found in the village (with kitchen and lounge!), for ref about 32 euros per night. Once settled, I went for a cycle tootle up the valley (of waterfalls) to Stechelberg, then into the village for a couple of Weissbiers and a Rosti Curry, which was quite tasty.

A cold night again (but not frosty), I forgot how the narrow valley with its precipitous walls doesn't allow much sunlight! 

By 0930 I was on the Wengen mountain train with velo, and had a planned route returning to Lauterbrunnen via Klein Schiedegg (at nearly 7,000ft the highest point) and Grindelwald...to complete an actual full circuit would've meant scaling the almost vertical cliff up to Wengen, although the first few kilometres from my start in Wengen, were very brutal, although eventually it settled, but always climbing to Klein Schiedegg....the sun was out again, and the views were magnificent...with the Eiger and the Jungfrau being the most famous...from Klein Schiedegg it was a huge descent to Grindelwald, then valley rides from there and eventually back to base. One of the best rides, and perfect for a gravel bike too.

After some sustinence and a shower, I decided to head down to Interlaken and have a walk. The paragliders were landing regularly, which reminded me of my flight all those years ago....but moreso because Linda had the duty to video me, the result being a nice vid of just my feet...the excuse was that she was distracted looking after a 2 year old Jamie! Probably true...we actually spoke later that evening about it! 

Evening was spent with a Sri Lankan meal at the campsite in the pleasant company of a Dutch couple (btw without stereotyping the Dutch are the friendliest, and speak better English than me 😂...if if see a NL number plate, I'll often make the effort to converse!) so that was the Bernese Alps, the 2 night rule soon to be met...so off I go again...but where too? 🤷‍♂️😎

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 3 Zermatt (Switzerland)

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Stage 3 - Switzerland - Zermatt

I was almost tempted to wait a day for the wall to wall sunshine, just to compete the Lac Blanc hike, but the cable car needed to get to the first level had already gone on it’s late Summer break, in readiness for the upcoming ski season. So I continued to Switzerland.

My first task was to purchase a vignette (affectively a mandatory tourist road tax), all the tourist info, made it clear that one could be bought at customs…Not a soul there! I drove for an hour, before pulling in at a service station and getting one….cost about £36, for the year….fine about£140 in not having one. Phew, I could relax now!

So, Zermatt, here I come, and more specifically the iconic Matterhorn. However all the high peaks were immersed in cloud! That is 20 peaks over 4,000 metres 😳 

Zermatt itself is car free, so I camped in the village down the valley, Tasch….and a nice campsite too (for ref: 27 Euro pn)….after setting up, I “tootled” up the bike track to check out Zermatt, sans helmet…but the tootle turned into quite a MTB challenge, even defeating me on a couple of the loose stoned ascents (ignominiously being passed by e bikes 😫)…

Zermatt was very….err…..Swiss….alpine village, but packed with tourists, watch and chocolate shops etc etc….all I was interested in, was whether the cloud would clear to see the Matterhorn.

And it did, and WOW! I find some natural features quite spiritual….but the best was to come, tomorrow was to be total sunshine!

And it was! But I awoke to ice all over the tent and car….but survived! Planned a quite well known walk after some research, The 5 Lakes (or Seenweg)….I was marching to catch the Zermatt train by 8.15am (thumbed a lift too), and from the station in Zermatt, set off to the start point of the hike.

MISTAKE! Later I discovered I could’ve got a ski lift to the start point, but instead struggled on a ridiculously steep climb through trees, for probably more than an hour….discovering that the route was a sort of endurance test path, with stages and minimum time limits…basically to assess fitness for climbing the Matterhorn. I’m not sure if I passed or failed!

Anyway, suffice to say…what enveloped was one of the most mesmeric hikes I have , or will ever have done….there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the Matterhorn stood out, as proud and as modest as could be, so iconic, and as I stated previously….something quite spiritual about it. I simply did not tire of looking at it….without the Matterhorn….the other peaks would have been sufficient, but the Matterhorn really does steal the show!

The hike passed 5 lakes (surprise surprise) with varying degrees of enhancement to the vista…see the classic reflection photo, and my favourite was the last lake….I chatted with a number of  peeps on the hike, but specifically a couple from Southern California, Dave and Robin, older than me, but heck, Robin was fit! Used to live in Windsor and ran half marathons! 

I knew now to take a vehicular back down to Zermatt, the Sunegga, an underground one…no wonder I missed it!

Wow what a day that was, I deserved a pint! Sadly googling, “pubs near me with football”, I found myself in the "Grizzly Bear"...and yes, the north London derby was in full swing….anyway several pints of Guinness later…great converse with the well travelled English barman, a couple from South Carolina (first time out of the States) and a craggy Latvian mountaineering guide (£1300 approx cost to be guided up the Matterhorn!)…anyway a good night was had, but it hadn't finished. The first restaurant I walked past was an Indian, I couldn't resist, even when a standard meal was at least 30 euros ! 😳

Catching the 2115 train, and with a walk to the campsite (I tried thumbing it again!)....another morning of ice, but by 10 I was off to stage 4 of the tour....Interlaken!

EURO TOUR 2023 - Stage 2 - Passy / Chamonix (France)

Stage 2 - Passy / Chamonix 

Deciding to take the slightly longer non toll route from Annecy, I headed  towards Albertville, where at Ugine the normal tunnel route was closed, so a vertiginous mountain top diversion it was…and eventually I passed a series of gorgeous Alpine ski resorts including Flumet, with the growingly impressive Mt Blanc range dominating the target skyline.

It’s been over 10 years since I was last in Chamonix. Two visits in the same year, firstly, to complete the circuit of Mt Blanc on mountain bikes; and shortly after returned with the family.

I’d forgot how stunning the location is…it’s clearly relative in an Alpine context, but Chamonix is at a different level to Annecy…the backdrop of Mt Blanc, and also equally as engaging the glacier which “flows” down towards the Chamonix valley. The town centre too, is very purdy.

After having the worst Cappuccino ever, I discovered an afternoon hike, the Petit Balcón paths…the walk made up for the coffee, never getting bored with that spectacular backdrop.

Heavy rain was forecast, so I bottled the camping…but had to drive 30 mins down the valley to get a reasonably priced AirBnB in a high mountain side location called Plateau de Passy (£47 per night for 

ref), and a very nice studio it was too, with the room view facing directly across to Mt Blanc. And a lovely quiet (out of season) village it was too…one general store,one restaurant and the obligatory boulangerie !

It’s nice mixing the camping with Airbnb…not one is any better (weather permitting!), just different…but putting my feet up, with a few blondes (beers unfortunately) and watching the Champions League after consecutive canvas nights was a nice change!

It had rained heavily in the night, but wasn’t first thing in the morning, in fact the forecast was quite optimistic until late afto. I pinched and slightly edited a Komoot bike gravel route, to also include a visit to the recommended Lac Vert…and set off, with a target of Chamonix. Mt Blanc, unlike yesterday, was fully visible, as were all the surrounding mountain tops…a truly scintillating landscape.

First stop was a forested track climb to the lovely and atmospheric Lac Vert, before struggling with the Komoot navigation descending sharply through the forest…some of the tracks more than crossed that line to mountain biking….soon, though (and mainly on asphalt ) I completed some mega climbs, followed by a series of very quiet (it won’t be long) ski villages before reaching the outskirts of Chamonix. 

Returning on a gravel track on the opposite side of the valley, it soon (officially ) terminated, forcing me to return over the lofty ascents I’d visited previously…but but but…looking at the map, there seemed to be an old road, then a very undistinguished track that could possibly keep me in the valley, and avoid all those climbs?!

It went ok until I hit an industrial operation, possibly quarrying, where there were security gates, and “interdit “ and danger signs all over….I perservered, threw the bike over a fence, kept my head down, and the road became the track on the map. Now, perhaps years ago, this was an access way, but now hugely overgrown but just distinguishable, most I “force rode” some I had to walk, and even lift the bike over obstacles…eventually I reached a road….all to avoid that return climbing!! Well, I still had the mega climb back to base! 

Awaking to very low cloud, my hope was to complete the apparently the best hike (accessible 😘) in the area, Lac Blanc, but should I break my 2 night rule…as for the next several days it’s wall to wall sunshine? 🤷‍♂️