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LONDON, FRANCE & THE TOUR OF THE LOIRE VALLEY
Escaping the generally appalling weather from Sheffield to head south, into, yes you guessed it, into even more appalling weather! 
An overnight pitstop in Tooting with Gaston, and then a relatively short dash to Folkestone and Le Tunnel….arriving in Calais, amazed that my journey to Tours (approx halfway to Spain) was more than 7 hours, fortunately realising after 20 mins or so, that my Google Maps options was set to NO TOLL ROADS! 
A quick rectification and it reduced to 5 hours, still significant but not quite as almost impossible!
A quick rectification and it reduced to 5 hours, still significant but not quite as almost impossible!Driving through relentless rain nearly all the way, with two stops for sustenance and energy drinks, and getting another drenching as I unloaded the car to my Airbnb just outside Tours, on the banks of a tributary of the Loire. 
Enjoying a deserved kip, using my new toy, Komoot to plan a cycle route (and verified by my host, Gregory, as très bon!), attempting to visit a series of castles, that the Loire region is famous for…so on a cold and very windy morning, I completed a 100km circuit (too far), checking out five chateaus…once you’ve seen one! 
From Chinon to Ussé to Villandry - tick, tick, tick!
The route was almost totally on non car back lanes and lots of cycle trails, but almost totally on tarmac…I wouldn’t rush back for the scenery…the Loire and even it’s tributaries are generally imperceptibly wide rivers, and not particularly scenic….the rest of the landscape was generally flat, rural with many vineyards and farms.
In the evening I checked out the centre of Tours, which was I’m not sure why, but surprisingly attractive, super historic, with gorgeous cobbled narrow lanes and squares with many timbered houses, especially around Place Plumereau .
Implementing the now “historic “ two day rule, I packed up the following morning, to head south.
“South”, well, that’s the way to Spain, although, I didn’t quite make it! 
REPORT TWO 17th Monday April - LA DORDOGNE
I wasn’t really enthused by another more than five hour drive, in order to reach Spain, and after checking the weather forecast, and noting that it was much improved around La Dordogne, I decided why not?!
Arriving mid afto, I hesitated on camping, but on discovering there were several AirBnBs available for less than £40, I couldn’t resist. Before checking in, I pinched a 2 hour walk from Komoot, taking in yet another impressive chateau, Monbazillac….through a landscape of vine groves! Bastante agradable 
The Airbnb was fine, a converted cellar - although I was more impressed with an auto robot like lawn mower!
I planned a route en velo, for the following day, and affectively rode 40km downstream and back, although I managed a loop…very pleasant, and actually very French, bien sûr 
Very purdy, with lovely almost medieval like villages and architecture….and varied “pretty” landscapes…(clearly previously spoilt, and hard to be impressed!). 
A quickish turnaround at my gaff, with the aim to drive east, further into the interior of the Dordogne. I’m sure from my distant memory, there was better scenery, smaller rivers and more dramatic vistas than around the sizeable River Dordogne….so I headed to Les Eyzies, on the tributary, the Vezere…and this was definitely more like it…driving through the evidence of Prehistory with the impressive overhanging cliffs, guarding the cave interiors of that evidence. The cliffs were so impressive I made a U turn….observing the residences built into the rock face, although passing by the tour of the interior!
The village itself too was embraced by more rising cliffs, and very pretty it was too, by the river.
Returning back to base in Bergerac, I started thinking that another two days in Dordogne would be welcome, but exploring further east….and I must use my tent!!
REPORT THREE - Tuesday April 18th - More Dordogne
Before I even went out for my evening meal al centro, I’d found a camping app, and booked two nights by the riverside site (La Dordogne) at Le Buisson de Cadouin, approximately an hour downstream. Committed, and so now I had to get the tent out, the forecast was excellent too, so no excuses…. Setting off in the morning, firstly though back to Les Eyzies, where I’d pinched a walk from Komoot (again)….in gorgeous Spring conditions, I walked around the limestone cliffs and caves, very impressive, but too much “bush” or foliage in between for me….still very nice.
The drive after to the campsite was only 20 mins, approaching with the slightest hint of anticipation….the place looked deserted! And affectively it was, not in season yet…but I was given my pitch…and wow! 100m2 pitches, with tall hedges in between for privacy, and right on the river bank….probably the best spot I’d ever had. 
Soon setting up all the kit, sitting out, trying my new jet cooker for a couple of hot drinks…this beats sitting in an Airbnb - it couldn’t have been a more gorgeous setting, and the weather matched it….so pleased I’d made the decision.
A not too dissimilar experience to the one I had in NZ when I reluctantly again first camped, and never looked back….not sure I’ll do 12 consecutive nights again, but I can only try….no kitchens like NZ, so it’s either a local hostelry or get the boil in the bag rice out!The following morning I’d plotted another Komoot ride, but this time using the MTB profile….it turned out much better, with more off-road, and just a couple of spots where a MTB was really required, but I survived….nice circuit joining up the valleys of the Dordogne and the Vezère…standout was at their confluence, a small hamlet called Limeuil, stunning setting (although they wouldn’t serve me food on the riverside terrace ).
).After I drove to Domme, apparently one of the prettiest dwellings in the region, but bettered without planning on the way back vía La Roque Gageac, where the village is built rather amazingly into the rock face, and then Beynac et Cazenac, with the imposing castle overlooks the valley, I stopped for a beer and tapas, overlooking the Dordogne, with a setting sun, the castle and intermittent multi coloured hot air balloons floating above, all very romantic…rather nice!
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La Roque-Gageac  |
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