NZ BLOG 7 - ALPS-2-OCEAN (& THE CENTRAL OTAGA RAIL TRAIL)

The Great Trails

I’d never done any form of what is becoming a rather modern phenomenon that is bike packing (although touring with bags has been around for donkeys years, and I’ve done a little of that, albeit 12 years ago!).

So, tentatively purchasing some bags for my cross bike, and making the necessary commitment to advance book the accommodation to complete New Zealand’s longest bike trail, the Alps2Ocean trail, I had to complete it!

Starting from the NZ Alps at the base of Mt Cook, or an alternative start point of the nearby Lake Tekapo, finishing some 320km later at the harbour in Oamaru , where else? Exactly where I’m based, no coincidence.

But first I wanted to test the gear. So just two days before, I dumped my car in the small town of Ranfurly in central Otago, to ride the 80k along the Central Otago Rail Trail to Alexandra, and then back the following day! 

All was fine! I’m not sure what I was expecting to happen, bags drop off, evaporate? 😊 Or worse…think mainly, it was just how it felt with that additional weight.

I had nothing to worry about, all was fine…cycling through what was the gold rush región of far horizons, rolling hills and distant mountains, very rural and sparsely populated. 😍

All was good, two days later the biggie! 🙌

ALPS2OCEAN TRAIL

With the family, we set off for a night to the start point, Tekapo, on the shores of the same named lake. An almost unnatural cobalt blue in colour with an unreal backdrop of the highest snow capped mountain range, the NZ Alps, with Mt Cook standing at the centre of attention, the highest point at 12,220 feet. It really is stunning.🥰

After a hearty long bike ride preparation of a Thai meal and several beers, by 8.30am, in the morning I was ready for the start line (just after Hamish disappointed us with a non return on his trout fishing exploits, for a not to be special breakie….so, porridge it was then!).🎣 🥣

DAY 1 TEKAPO TO LAKE OHAU 94km

So Day 1 of three, I headed for Twizel (all these communities are a legacy of the dam building population between 1968 and 1984, when it was going to be raised to the ground). Quite small places, these are not “Ambleside” or “Keswick” - but minimal and functional.

The route followed the canal linking up the Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki, for hydro electric production…mainly on gravel but also “seal” as the Kiwis call it, tarmac. The scenery continued to be unbelievable, but admittedly the ride on these long straight roads was a little tedious…once at Pukaki though, it changed to lakeside single track, then cut across to Twizel via open moorland and pine woods, much better. In Twizel: Bex, Hamish and Sienna were awaiting.

Necking a mince and cheese pie (they love their pies, and I must say they are good) and a must try once custard square! I continued my journey, but more “seal” and canal, this time linking Pukaki with Lake Ohau, some 25k.

However, once arriving at Lake Ohau, all changed, could it even be a more impressive dramatic vista than before, across the lake to more snow capped big ones! A nice single track hugged the contours lakeside, and eventually I arrived at my destination for day 1, Lake Ohau Ski Lodge. 😍🗻

Booking a room with a lake and a glorious mountain view, this was a stunning location. Probably the only time, I hankered a need to share that experience.😢

Dinner was communal, with tour groups and individuals alike. A talking point was that the first part of the trail the next day, was arduous, rocky and very difficult. Two guides told me I’d possibly puncture with skinny tyres, but almost certainly wouldn’t be able to climb the gradient….a challenge? Ainsworth? Do they know who I am 😂 💪

DAY 2 LAKE OHAU TO OTEMATATA 79km

Awaking to yet another beautiful blue sky day, if anything even at breakfast time the temperature was above 20C. I set off with a minor piece of anticipation, with all the locker room talk about skinny wheels and rocks and gradients.

A great single track start winding away across the mix of mainly open moorland and occasionally woods, typically over a stream. The views were just mesmeric, as I climbed higher and higher, as the terrain did get a little more coarse, wondering when this impossible challenge was going to materialise.🤷‍♂️

In front of me was a lofty mountain range, with clear diagonal tracks from the valley traversing the side slopes, clearly heading for the high passes. Was it one of these where I’d be doomed to failure?🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

No it wasn’t! Utter bollix….I eventually reached Qualiburn Road, which I knew was a long fast gravel road, guiding me nearly all the way to my next destination, Omarama, so I must have either gone the wrong way, or I’d completed their impossible climb without realising?

Of course, it was the latter, bloody Muppets….and this is why, I believe they have such an attitude even the guides: 

They are nearly all on E bikes, yes, I’m not anti E bikes, in a way this is good, because it allows access to the trails for people who otherwise would not be able to share those experiences, but….

Generally speaking, they are not aware of the levels of fitness required on a traditional bike, and also they have no perception of skill levels, balance, co-ordination etc🤷‍♂️🤬🙄

So that’s why they exaggerate in situations like this, still Muppets though 😂

Anyway, rolling on…very fast along Quailburn Road, mainly on gravel, hitting 60kph in places….after passing the “Clay Cliffs”, I soon entered Omarama. Fuelling up on a stuffed sausage, with mashed potato, yes! I had to ask the lady there what it was in the display cabinet, anyhow, suffice to say it was tasty! 😋

Now….the outstanding highlight of the 320km - the next section almost immediately hit a single track, hugging the shores of Lake Benmore, twists and hairpins, challenging climbs, and fun descents….some adrenaline with the single track adjacent to the vertical lakeside cliffs. 

The views were again more than sensational, and except for a very rare cyclist and speed boat, I had it all to myself….at one point I sat all alone on a rock promontory overlooking the lake and mountains….and for a moment I really lost myself….was this real?! Can it possibly get any better than this? 💕

Continuing the amazing views, I had a short challenging climb (37/28 gearing ) then the next lake down came into view (the Lakes are all part of the damned Waitaki river system), Lake Aviemore. After a series of switchbacks and a gentler ride along the lake, soon I arrived at my second day destination, Otematata.

Fuelling up in the evening on an awful chicken based burger and the obligatory few beers, I got to chat with a young Aussie couple. They were touring, with the fullest kit including camping equipment on their bikes….but described to me their biking experiences, across Europe, SE Asia and soon they were off to Greece….so young to, there was a part of me that was envious! 😚

DAY 3 OTEMATATA TO OAMARU 125km

For the first time the weather had broke overnight. The temperature had halved, it was overcast and there was an easterly headwind. As this was nearly 130km I set off before 8am, targeting Oamaru before 4pm to be welcomed by Bex. 

The whole of this section, I’d done before, which took away any anticipation of the unknown. The first section is all road along the side of Lake Aviemore for nearly 25km but then after mainly single track and shingle riverside roads….

I actually really enjoyed it. I think it was the contrast with the previous two days, so different…I’ve left the big mountain / lake scenery but in its own way the new environments were good to…it was necessary to have done those previous two days, to make that compare to understand why though.

Closing in on Duntroon after nearly 70km I caught a guy up with full gear on a mountain bike, we rode together into the small village, chatting along the way, and decided to lunch together. at the Flying Pig cafe. Great company….he was a Flying Doctor from Wellington, who’d worked in the NHS at Torquay and London in the late 90s….he recalled how it wasn’t fit for purpose then! We spoke of many other things of course….

We agreed that we needed to split, as I had my timescale, and I was riding much quicker. 🚴💨

I was now in really familiar territory, I’d ridden these sections a few times already, but even in driving drizzle on the higher parts, again this was different - it was that contrast again…the holistic experience of the overall journey! It really was like being in a new area! 👍

Once I’d defeated the ascents of the Island Cliff area, I plummeted down through the Rakis Railway Tunnel (closed in 1930)…the rain made the grit and sand more sticky, so I thought, and my confidence on the bike grew, taking some chances on descents and switchbacks! Or perhaps was it because I was so close to home?😅

Passing the familiar enclaves of Windsor and Fort Enfield, within 25 more minutes I was at the harbour in Oamaru, with Bex enthusiastically (and embarrassingly) cheering me home. Having my photo taken on the Alps2Ocean stage and frame overlooking the harbour (after kicking the E bikers off it, and into the harbour…..I didn’t really!). We then settled for a couple of pints at Scott’s Bar and Brewery. 🙌👏🍺🍺

So that was the Alps2Ocean trail….I really enjoyed it, no, that’s an understatement, the next day I felt a little lost, I guess through a minor withdrawal situation, possibly…but simply all I need to do, is plan my next one….Hamish (my tour advisor) suggests something a little more adventurous over on the west coast. 🤷‍♂️👍🚴🗻

I cannot wait!

                                                                       Above Lake Pukaki - Mt Cook in distance

                                                             Lake Ohau

                                                               Lake Aviemore & Dams

Lake Aviemore

Shores of Lake Ohau

Heading to Kurow - Waitaki River

That 2nd Day and Lake Benmore

Danseys Pass - returning from Otago

Elephant Rocks - 3rd Day

Day 3 - nearly home, Enfield

Lake Tekapo - and a rolling cloud

Day 3 - Rakis Tunnel

Dam and Lake Aviemore

Otago Rail Trail

NZ BLOG 6 - CHRISTCHURCH ; AKAROA, GERALDINE and LAKES TEKOPO & PUKAKI

Excursion covering Christchurch and its environ, eventually returning south to Geraldine and then west into "The Lakes" - 3rd to 8th January 2023

Mount Cook and Lake Pukaki

Christchurch

Banks Peninsula

CHRISTCHURCH

In September 2010, the residents of Christchurch breathed a sigh of relief, in believing they had dodged the silver bullet that was an earthquake with a magnitude of 7.1, with the epicentre west of the city. There was some damage to older buildings but no deaths. 😓However…

Roll on five months to February 2011, at peak lunchtime, this 6.3 magnitude earthquake much closer and shallower with an epicentre to the SE, caused widespread carnage, 185 deaths, and mass destruction across the city, including ongoing “liquefaction” across the eastern suburbs, where persistent regular tremors, caused liquid silt (pressure on fine grained sands) to ooze upwards and making residences inhabitable - apparently, the insurance companies made life even worse, as they would of course! 😭🤬🤬😭

Ten years on, and the estimated $50 billion reconstruct is still ongoing, although well advanced, but not complete, with open planning and low rise "earthquake proof" re-building, the residents are slowly starting to feel proud about their city, once again.🙌

And so they should, a very attractive city, very green and open….and the city centre is well planned along the river Avon. A very quiet city (although 4 days is hard to fully assess) and very English, as it always was (but apparently the most racist city in NZ!).

On my first full day, I walked from my digs in Linwood, directly to the nearby river Avon, and took the longer meandering route along the river trail eventually into the city centre.

Evidence was still apparent of “red no go zones” which had been landscaped, with driveways still visible, but I assume no build areas. I had a good chat with an older guy, who was more than forthcoming about his recollections on the day, in great detail and also his wife (he was a manager at the local international swimming pool, and his wife was in college as a teacher). He pointed out the new buildings, the surviving ones, and what used to be in the empty spaces…adjacent us.

A must visit was Quake City museum, which I found really interesting especially the recollections of some of the residents in the immediate aftermath, and how it impacted them, and then 10 years on, to how they feel today. Amazing actual footage too of when the earthquake struck, as people were innocently getting on with their normal daily lives. Very poignant too was the Wall of Remberance, with all the 185 names etched in the stone, quite anonymous except for two eulogies from their family, see the one below, so much more moving when it is made so personal 😢

Continuing my journey, slowly, taking in the environ, on a gorgeous Summer’s day, the centre is certainly a very chilled relaxing place…with punting on the river, and cafe society al fresco of course….where I found the rather cool C1 Espresso in the edgiest part of the centre surrounded by some really great street art. 🎨☕️ 

Shortly after, continuing my walk, I had a strange deja vu type experience….approaching where the Anglican Cathedral was still being reconstructed, I knew I’d been here before, but obviously under different circumstances? Yes, it was 1989, and we were listening to the famous Wizard making his customary daily oratory on the steps of the cathedral! (See the pinched photo, the steeple fell in the earthquake). 😳 

The following day I combined a fairly decent bike ride, out of Christchurch initially into some amazing mountain climbs and scenery with equally dramatic coastlines, over to Lyttleton and back over another challenging climb to a surf resort called Sumner. 🚴‍♂️🤪 I returned here in the evening to the Beach Bar Restaurant for my dinner! And then later even squeezed in some nature ramblings on the Bexley Wetland, near to a not very impressive New Brighton, I may have caught it on a quiet day!

My host was a lady of Dutch descent, initially of robust character, but slowly chipping away, we ultimately had some great conversations - and she was always open to advise on places to visit.

AKAROA

Packing up after three nights I headed on the most of scenic routes over to nearby Banks Peninsula with the aim of visiting Akaroa. Set in the most eye watering of settings, surrounding by a rim of dramatic mountains with the azure blue waters in the middle….this was a volcanic crater….🌋

The first part of NZ initially occupied by the French (until the English arrived), with clear influences still visible, with street names and descendants of those pioneers still residing. 🇫🇷

A lovely place although for me, too touristy, lots of families on the beach….although it didn’t take much to walk around to the lighthouse, to find that solitude. Also on the advice of my previous host, I visited the “Giant’s House” - a cross between modern art based on porcelain and an horticultural accompaniment. It was really impressive!

Now, decision time?!

I decided that the four hour drive to Kaikoura further north, was too far, to possibly go on a whale lookout boat (which I wasn’t really fussed about; same with the small dolphin trips from Akaroa….don’t think I agree with them, scuba diving yes, chasing them in a boat, no!).

So decided to head back south, but via Geraldine…

GERALDINE

You can’t beat two nights in Geraldine, fnarr, fnarr! 😂

Well you can, it looked quite nice and lively when I passed through it a few days back, but now, in pouring rain, which continued into the following early afternoon, it didn’t reach my expectations - although I had a magnificent curry on that first night. In the morning, I managed to squeeze a local walk in, which actually was nice, with the main interest being a huge Kauri tree, and an important associated bat population, although I saw none. In the later afternoon, I took the CX bike on mainly gravel tracks around the Peel Forest area, but more of a fitness ticking the box exercise, the grim misty conditions didn’t help!

LAKES TEKAPO & PUKAKI / MT COOK / CLAY CLIFFS

I left Geraldine after watching the mighty Owls defeat, unbelievably, Newcastle in the FA Cup! Brunch at Fairlie, delaying as much as possible to await the forecasted improving weather. And it worked a treat, by the time I got to the Lakes the sky was blue and the sun was out and very warm. The Lakes looked unreal, a cobalt blue, with the backdrop of the snow covered Alps, and that is where I was going to next. ☀️😍

On my bike, I cycled due west, hugging the shores of Pukaki, heading directly for the mighty Mt Cook…at 12218ft the highest point on the islands, quite remarkable when you consider the small size of the islands. An advantage being so youthful geologically, the disadvantage of course is that the continued build is still ongoing, hence the earthquakes and seismic activity!

But I wasn’t considering that, as the views were simply mind blowing, defo in the top few of all time scenic rides….80km later I’m back at the car…and made a quick stop in Twizel, very minimalist and basic, I expected more of an “Ambleside” but apparently there simply isn’t the demand….visitor numbers are comparatively very small, and a high proportion are self sufficient in their campervans and tents etc

Moving on, I made a slight deviation to the geologically very interesting Clay Cliffs (opposite)….layers of silts, clays and conglomerates, again impacted by seismic movement creating some wonderful morphology. Apparently in the Spring, the place is immersed in carpets of lupins, I’ll have to come back! 

Less than two hours later and I’m back with the family in Oamaru and reflected on a wonderful and varied number of days, giving me a true flavour to experience much more! 👍                                        

                                                                                                                                       

That "1989" Moment

Giants House - Akaroa

(READ THIS 😭!) Wall of Remembrance

River Avon - walking into Christchurch

Tram Central Christchurch

Mosaic Modern Art

River Avon - Central Christchurch

Towards Lyttleton

Sign of the Kiwi - Cafe - Dyers Pass

Little Owl

Between Banks Peninsula & Lyttleton

Banks Peninsula

Mt Cook and Lake Waptaki

Bell & Spire from the Anglican Cathedral - Quake City

NZ BLOG 5 - CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR 2022

 Quality family time over the festive period from 23rd December 2022

After returning from the Catlins and Dunedin, we ran into Christmas and New Year….so although I now have wheels, my exploits consisted of day trips away in the car or with the bike, and to spend time with the family. ❣️

WAITAKI VALLEY AND WAIMATE

This included one rather lengthy road trip, including the huge limestone morphs parochially named the “Elephant Rocks”, quite impressive, then just down the road in Duntroon (in the Waitaki Valley) I popped into the rather grandiose named “Vanished World Centre”, affectively a geology exhibition. I made the mistake of informing the chap that I had a geology background, but some 40 (aaagh!) years ago, and that I'd forgotten most detail. As it was quiet, he offered to walk me around, in order to explain the geological detail, kind of him, but I didn’t really have two hours to spare. Fortunately I was rescued by the arrival of a family that needed his attention. 🙌

Pushing cynicism aside, it was interesting to understand why NZ is so seismically active with the Pacific and Australasian plates pushing against each other….also that many think NZ is simply an island in the Pacific, it is actually a continent (Zealandia), but with large parts submerged. The rise and fall of the sea levels were well illustrated through geological time….including the inception plate known as Gondwana Land. 🌋

Moving on down the valley I popped by the pre European Māori paintings, but I wasn’t impressed. Not sure if my expectations were a little high: a Van Gogh or Picasso perhaps? 🎨

Crossing the Waitaki river at Kurow I then headed over to a small town called Waimate, parking up at an eco reserve (fences to keep predators out, and traps galore - mainly for rats, stoats and possums (although they call hedgehogs “Pests”)). A nice walk initially through the “bush” (trees, trees and more trees….see later day out!) but thank goodness eventually opening up into some relatively lofty views out to the coast.

In fact it reminded me very much of the scarps on the South Downs in England. So, nice views at the top over the coastal plain and Waimate…and also joined by a fairly rare NZ Falcon. 😍

PALMERSTON BIKE RIDE

Hamish, being a local for one but also a tour guide for a number of years, has been great for recommending places to visit…and this was another one.

Halfway to Dunedin, about an hours drive, I plotted (with Hamish) a 60 plus k bike ride, mainly on gravel…but a cracking ride, just unfortunate it was quite overcast, until of course I finished the ride! So, I must return…., interesting morphology there, and I’ve tried to research this, the area seemed to have a series of extinct volcanoes, certainly typically conical in shape….but the 535 page geology thesis 😳 I found was just a little too much for me to thoroughly investigate! Great ride all the same though….👍

BUSH, BUSH AND MORE BLOODY BUSH

The Kiwis seem to love their bush walks! Affectively immersed pretty much permanently in trees. Maybe it’s the escape from the Summer heat, what else, I'm not sure, I don’t understand it! 

So off I went to Herbert Forest, about 30 mins south of Oamaru, and chose a near four hour walk. “Superb walk” I was told….90 mins later I’m still in trees, nothing but trees….no views, one semi decent waterfall, at times quite difficult under foot, and had to cross a stream 13 times (exact cos it was stated in the flyers, I didn’t count!). 🤪

Just as I was getting cabin fever, I crossed a forest road…thank goodness for Google Maps…I took it, knowing it was heading sort of in my car direction, and within 30 mins I’d escaped!😅

So when I see, “bush walks” now, I’m wary.😊

The irony being, unlike the UK, lots of quality looking walking areas are on private land, so access is denied. Quite frustrating riding and driving around seeing some lovely looking challenges, but there is no access. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

PENGUIN NIGHT

Oamaru is quite well known for its Blue Penguins, some 200 plus each night after sunset, make their way out of the ocean to their burrows and nests. However, also nearby, and at approx two hours before sunset, the very rare, and much more shy Yellow Eyed Penguins also return from a days fishing to nearby Bushy Beach. 🐧

I arrived at Bushy, just after seven, and joined the enthusiasts scanning closely the sea ebb - I left just after nine, and saw a grand total of three! Which apparently is quite good, because often none are seen. Giving a German mother and daughter a lift back into town, they shared a not uncommon view that the $36 fee to watch the Blue Penguins (with differing prices for priority seating!) was an unattractive proposition, nature should be free!

So with them, I joined about 30 others on the north beach by the harbour, as some of the Blue’s were unaware of a contract to exit only at the paid area, although the vast majority were at the “zoo”….suffice to say, particularly as Bex could get me a ticket for half price, next time I may succumb, because by 1030, and getting very cold now, we saw a grand total of ONE! 🐧

I may return….to both sites!

THE FISH WIFE

Over New Year, we had a family day out, down to Moeraki Lighthouse, to view the birds and seals, but then popped into the fishing village itself after…the third time I had visited, and on each of the previous two, the highly recommended takeaway, The Fish Wife, was closed. But not today…so, quickly checking the online reviews, the recommendation was fresh (from the sea that morning) Blue Codfish and Crayfish. The codfish was really exquisite, and the crayfish was nice, if a little rubbery, but not sure I’m comfortable eating crayfish (plus crabs, octopus, lobster et al), from my scuba days, seeing them living and breathing under water….and what natures delight they are! 🐟🍤

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR

Christmas and New Year were very pleasant with the family, next year when Sienna is another year older and more understanding will be more interesting though! Typically Kiwis have ham for Christmas Day, but Becky managed to source a turkey from somewhere, and a lovely meal it was too….although the highlight of the day was the Sticky Toffee Pudding made by master chef Abuelo LOL por supuesto! 🥧🤷‍♂️

A family road trip ensued too, with a first stop in Timaru, an hour north, firstly to order a pearl wedding bracelet for Becky, then visit the local rides fair. Abuelo volunteered to be the cameraman rather than partake in the tea cups ride, see photo!

Hamish thinks nothing of super long drives, so I guess, not so surprisingly, decided to take me for a first visit towards the Alps, arriving at Lake Tekapo some two hours later, to the most stunning views, with an azure blue lake with the backdrop of Mt Cook...really spectacular, see next post for my personal visit.

In total we drove for 7 hours!! 😳

Becky and Hamish went out early on NYE with Abuelo solo baby sitting for the first time! Then Bex swapped with me, and with our bikes, Hamish and I went to Scott’s first where there was a live band playing covers, and also a full pipe band. They do love their Scottish heritage. 🍻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Chatting to a guy at the bar, dressed in Victorian gear, he turned out to be the World Penny Farthing Hill Climb Champion (self appointed after a local race 😂)….as only a multiple national champion, he had trumped me - we laughed and had our photo taken. He did try to persuade me to join his local cycling club, with a membership of………….two! A Penny farthing club of course! 😊

With 20 mins to go we decided to go to the local gardens where there was more entertainment on….again a band, a piper at midnight….then everyone immediately went home! 😳 Getting “double header” pints in was a mistake, as we slowly finished them off, bewildered that the night ended minutes after midnight…..think we should have stayed at Scotts!

Holiday season over, time now to do some solo exploration!