Keith's Globe Trotting Blog: February 2023

Spilt Apple Rock - nr Kaiteriteri

Wharariki Beach nr Farewell Spit

Kaiteriteri

Excursion, first to Christchurch to meet Jamie and Katie, then solo, northwards to Kaikoura, Picton, Nelson, Abel Tasman and Farewell Spit, returning via St Arnaud and Hanmer Springs - 18th Feb to 5th March

NELSON

A lovely spot , yes, but I forgot to mention next to the airport! The engines kicked in, bang on 6am, 📢 fortunately I’d crashed at 10pm after a sortee and curry downtown! So an early wash and breakie, but why doesn’t everyone else wake up!! 🤷‍♂️

Plan was to follow the Great Taste Trail…which affectively hugs the coastline north east….have a meal somewhere along the route, and tootle back.🥰

I didn’t even make 10k….😢 first a rear puncture; then another after putting a tube in it….4th attempt I found a shop with a tyre and a willingness to fit immediately…..3k and it goes again….back to shop….re done, seems ok now…..gentle local ride with some photography on a gorgeous late afto….was quite chilled…..lovely weather, great views…..why get upset!? 😊

So a reset, and start again tomorrow…..

Aaagh….mi cumpleaños!

I don’t need anymore of these….”Will you still need me, will you still feed me….when I’m 64”

?” 🎶 😳😢

Anyhow, as planned…the Great Taste Trail, up the coast, over numerous boardwalks and even a ferry and without issues this time….and I’m not sure what I was supposed to taste, but on the recommendation of a ‘local’ from originally Cheshire…I found the Riverside Restaurant, near and treated myself to an exquisite birthday meal (lamb shank based)….the chef was French, 🇫🇷 and the place was rather interesting….anti war commune set up in 1941 by Christian Pacifists, although not religious now, it still works as an equal commune, with no private ownership of property or cars, and everyone receives a weekly allowance….more to read here =>

https://www.riverside.org.nz/about-us

Anyway very nice they were, and I even got a hug, when I threw in it was my birthday! 🥰

I returned a part roadie back way (on guidance from Mr Cheshire) although relatively quiet, I really wouldn’t recommend bike riding on NZ roads. The default passing distance is minimal, and it’s rare for a driver to go really wide….a common complaint amongst touring cyclists I met….🤬

Eventually I arrived back at base camp, showered, then mistakenly attempted a siesta in a boiling hot tent! Then went out for birthday drinks….love the solo stuff, but this is one time where some amigos would’ve been welcome! 😢🍻

I awoke too early, about 6am, and decided I’d had enough of Nelson. I’d broken my max 2 night rule, due to the write off day….but I had some important business before I left!

I’ve been planning on some mountain biking since I arrived….and Nelson had the Coppermine Trail…I collected a full suspension bike (140mm I think) from a local shop, and off I set. The last time I did “proper” mountain biking was probably 10 years ago….in the shop, again, I derided e-mountain bikes….but within an hour, I wish I had one…🤪🚵‍♀️

The ascent was ‘only’ 16km, but bloody L, it went on and on, quite often in the lowest gears….I wasn’t enjoying it….quite rocky in places too. It seemed to last forever, but finally it levelled out, away from the ubiquitous BUSH…rather exposed, but nothing to see really, due to cloud and it was quite cold….but then the descent started. 😳😳

I couldn’t do this! It was so rocky, steep and twisting….I cannot recall anything at this level even back in the day, well perhaps I did….so….deep breath. relax, drop the seat post, trust the bike and move the body with the terrain….and soon, wowser! It all came flooding back….I guess just like riding a (mountain) bike! An exhilarating descent down into the valley, far better than the climb up….but I still wouldn’t get an E bike!🤷‍♂️😜

KAITERITERI

All sweaty and exhausted, I targeted Abel Tasman. Probably the most recommended place on the island….I decided upon a night in Kaiteriteri because it has a purposeful mountain bike park, and the location is supposed to be almost semi tropical like. 🏝️

Well, it has and it was…but not a lot there, except the Kiwi caravan and van crowd….I’d say far more than international tourists in their campervans.

Look I’m no snob, but….is this the equivalent crowd (not all obviously)that aspires for Skeggy or Bognor? Give ‘em a beach, a spade, the sun, pizza and chips and piss beer, and they come running….yes, I am a snob, clearly….😂🙄

Two bars, neither offered WiFi, one had no tap beer….330ml cans for $10 and chips galore in every direction.🤬

I wanted to give my legs a rest tomorrow, stay two nights and do the MTB park on Wednesday, but can I stay two nights here? Legs suffer, suffer legs!

After an intensive storm, I awoke to a beautiful morning, with a short pootle to the top of a viewpoint, looking down on the awakening village and beach activities, including kayakers and ferry taxi goers, really was an idyllic view point.😍

I decided to leave, and after chatting with a local (originally from London) , on her recommendation I headed for Harwoods Hole. Not realising it was taking me further north, and also up over the Takaka Hill (an understatement, this was a very lofty mountain pass)….20km down a gravel road and I arrived for the 45 min trek to the countries deepest cave sinkhole, and impressive it was too! 👍

TAKAKA & FAREWELL SPIT

I decided to keep heading north (also after speaking to a German lady, who suggested the bird life on Farewell Spit should be impressive, the most northerly point on the South Island). But first, hippiedom, Takaka….the guide book mentioned, dreadlocks, tie dye, bare feet etc….and it was bang on….but….

I’ve always considered I’m almost the perfect age for musical milestones: Prog rock, Bowie, Punk, New Wave, Dance and Britpop…..but slightly too young, for one genre I would’ve liked to have experienced: 60s hippies, but NO THANK YOU! Not after what I saw in Takaka….I’ll leave it there….perhaps I’m influenced by the musical association….Neil Young, Mamas and the Papas, Doors etc 🤷‍♂️🫣

So, soon I was walking the Farewell Spit (an apt name I thought, considering I’m leaving soon)…but Charlotte’s (the German lady) prediction wasn’t quite right. The environment looked ideal, but the bird count was primarily Oystercatchers and Black Swans….the evening was rescued though by a recommendation to watch the sunset at Wharaiki Beach….and wowser, it was worth it….really stunning, see the photos. 🌅🥰

ABEL TASMAN & MARAHAU

Setting off early in the morning, popping into Collingwood (notice how a number of these places are named after British military figures) for a quick coffee, and some provisions….within 75 mins I was back over the Takaka “Hill” and landed in Marahau.

The southern entry point to the Abel Tasman National Park. A top three location for most Kiwi recommendations, and as I walked the track adjacent the tropical like beaches and rainforest, it was understandable why….the beaches were simply gorgeous, fortunately against the forecast, it was a perfect day too….eventually I booked (via Bex, my travel agent) a boat taxi, so I could walk further along the track and passed more beaches….there was still an element of my moan at bush, and the restrictive views, but like some places it wasn’t a continuous tunnel! 🏝️🥰

Thank goodness the boat taxi was on time, and so was I….and my name was on the fully loaded boat - well done Becky! 👏

I had a few beers and basic fish and chips (that’s why I never usually order it) , then went back to my campsite….to discover, some dick had planted his tent right next to mine…🥴even before this, I wasn’t impressed with what they constituted a site for tents….a small rectangular area, next to the park entrance and squeezed against the backpackers accommodation…for 8 tents! Fvckers…it’ll be on Trip Advisor! ✅

Offski early (the earliest risers meeting in the kitchen are always the tent peeps)…although not the best sleep, again….(by now I was pining for a bed) I set off to Kaiteriteri and hired a super full suspension mountain bike (a Scott) and headed into the local well regarded MTB park….all good fun, from confident and flowing to very sketchy, with one fall….but otherwise survived, and one more ride back into the off road world! 😅

ALL ABEL TASMAN

ST ARNAUD AND NELSON LAKES NATIONAL PARK

I needed to head south, on the map it doesn’t look far to Oamaru, but Google Maps says 10 hours, from Farewell Spit, the furthest point I stayed away…and, I wanted to be in Oamaru for the weekend…so knocking two hours off that, I reached St Arnaud, a small (and only) community in the Nelson Lakes National Park.

Very nice, I guess, but I’ve been spoilt….described as the most northerly point of the Alps (although those right up in the NW at Takaka were rather damned impressive, perhaps not technically “The Alps”)…..yes, high mountains….but also yes, shrouded mainly in that favourite of mine, bush….I did try one of their suggested walks, but cut it short, because, yes you know the pattern now….bush, bush and more bush….🙄😜

Slightly more interesting by the fact I hiked in an area where there is a managed predator control, with an increase in some of their indigenous species especially the Kiwi, but I saw nothing…well, but bush! 👏

Tenting for the first time in a DOC (Dept of Conservation) site, heck it was sparse. No electricity, not even a kettle in the “food prep area” (not kitchen), cold showers, and a pitch in the trees, but really isolated and a few kms from the village. I slept like a baby! Eight hours solid….best yet! 🤙

MURCHISON, THE LEWIS PASS AND HANMER SPRINGS

After my super refresh, I was away just after 7am, with a quick pause admiring the wispy low clouds over Lake Rotoiti. I couldn’t be fussed making my coffee and porridge over my portable stove, decided to drive the 60k to Murchison and treat myself! 😊

And what a drive, that early….so typical of NZ. Just the bog standard journeys are mesmeric…heading spinning from one view to another, just gobsmacked by the relentless beauty.😍🏞️

Murchison was great…cosy, like a mid west town…bit sleepy, or NOT….it’s considered the whitewater capital of NZ, with 4 rivers converging on the town….but did find the most exquisite cafe. ☕️The staff were so friendly, and great coffee with a very agreeable eggs Benedict…I left with a great impression, and was feeling good….aided by a Spotify own mix, started by some new The The, but it rolled into a similar broad genre: Julian Cope, The Church, Waterboys, Suede, Lloyd Cole etc - cruising in my trusty gal, with this ridiculous huge sky….mountains galore….like a geography theoretical text book, but in real life! If you want moraines and remnants of volcanoes? They are here, there and everywhere! 🥰🤗

This was the approach and descent up to and over the third of the three passes over the Alps, Lewis Pass (the others: Arthur and Haast) - before I knew it, I’d been driving for 4 hours, but it felt like 30 mins! 😊Then the mini detour materialised, the road to Hanmer Springs.

Named after a Welshman, 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿it has natural volcanic springs with a stunning landscape (well, where does not?). I expected the spa to be a couple of pools, but heck, it was a huge complex, with multiple pools for different purposes….being solo I shyed away from the temptation. ☺️

The town itself was lovely, very Swiss like and chilled (it is a Winter ski resort too)….imagine it being a nice long weekend break place.

I’d camped under canvas for 10 straight nights by now, 😳it had been a revelation, not sure if “enjoy” is the term, but it’s been fine…but gives that 100% flexibility, I didn’t book ahead anywhere….however, a quick check on Booking.com and I found a hostel / backpackers with a double bed for $85 - ahhhh a bed! 😁I deserve this…It was lovely, made me appreciate it so much more, irony is I slept poorly!

The plan was to hire another MTB in the morning, but….I awoke to a sudden turn in the weather, and decided to head directly back to Oamaru, so, in time for Hamish’s birthday BBQ 🍻🌭🥗

Kaiteriteri - the advantage of being a "tenter" - up early!

MTB - Kaiteriteri MTB Park

Half Apple Rock Beach

Kaiteriteri

Top of descent - Coppermine Trail

Abel Tasman

Coppermine Trail - Nelson

Driving up the Takaka Hill

Hop Farms - en route to St Arnaud

Nelson - after the pub

Top of the Island - Farewell Spit

Anchorage Bay - Abel Tasman - waiting for water taxi!

Earthquake - Blenheim

Kaikoura - sunset & beers

Marlborough Sounds

CHRISTCHURCH

Setting off again to Christchurch to meet only Katie and Jamie, who were there with the rest of the family already, for some city R&R. 🎉

Of course being a “veteran” visitor to Christchurch, 😂 on my suggestion, we rendezvoused at my favourite cool cafe, C1 Espresso in the edgy part of downtown. Quickly dumping our apparel in our AirBnB gaff, and then a less than $20 Uber back into town….a few drinks later, and shocked to understand why 12 year olds are enticed by strawberry flavoured vapes. 😳 We were fortunate to get a cancellation in a smart restaurant in the New Regent Street quarter, Twenty Seven Steps. And very noveau and nice it was too, not sure Jamie appreciated it, who by now was on his last legs! 😴🍻

Katie wanted a beach and to sunbathe the following day, and it was boiling hot. ☀️🥵So again, being that veteran, Sumner beach it had to be….slightly surreal to return with Jamie and Katie, after being there fairly recently en solo.

Katie did her sun thing, while Jamie and I did a lap of the Lyttleton peninsula, again (as on my bike last time) stopping at the Kiwi Cafe at the top of Dyers Pass. ☕️🍰

We regrouped back at Sumner, and had a table booked for dinner, at the Beach Bar Restaurant (where I ate solo last time!)….with a table adjacent to the local troubadour! 🎸🎶 We got chatting about music, Jamie yet again, impressing on his musical knowledge, and we became the “request table”….everything from Neil Young to The Smiths to the Pet Shop Boys….was a grand evening! 👏

In the morning we split, with emotion and hugs 😢 and I set north. A cracking diverse journey through the Waipara vineyards and yet more dramatic hill/mountain scenery.

However, I didn’t plan to return! Stopping just minutes from Kaikoura, encouraged by a throng pointing seaward (dolphins no doubt!), I realised I’d left my camera and binoculars in Christchurch! FFS - I wasn’t happy, to say the least….🤬🤬

Roll on 24 hours. 🙄

KAIKOURA 🐳🐋

The whale “capital” of NZ….a multi thousand feet trench not far offshore, is the locale of various species, not typically seen so close to the shore. Spontaneously, as per the Mt Cook helicopter trip, I happen to pass the local airfield, advertising “Whale flights”…..so off we went, in a light aircraft, ✈️ and being Billy No Mates, a front seat too….soon spotting a 14 meter Sperm Whale, the pilot took us into a repetitive spin, first left, then right….for the passengers to get direct views….impressive to see, but certain passengers were almost seeing too much of their stomachs! 🤢

The flight before saw two other species, including two Blue Whales….unfortunately that was our quota for our flight, but with a huge dollop of supplementary supporting dolphins, hundreds in fact!

In the evening I cycled for beers, 🍻firstly near to the end of the Point Kean peninsula….on a beautiful evening….returning via a popular bar “downtown!” Joined by a Suisse guy, who amongst multiple adrenaline fuelled interests, his main passion was conversely fly fishing! Apparently NZ S Island is the place, but in specific locations across private access areas…he smiled when I mentioned Hamish’s fishing reputation! 😊

The “emergency tent” was required. 🏕️ Psychologically the last resort, and really not wanting to do…I tried to negotiate with a few motels, but $120 was the best I could do…..it became an issue in my head, I really didn’t want to camp…but this could now be a change….cracking location, right next to a river, with a Mountain View….and cosy as hell, and I slept fairly well! And it gives so much freedom…👏🥰

Straight after breakie I completed the Kaikoura Trail en velo….another one with quite a proportion of “tunnel riding” i.e. single track through bush, bush and more bloody bush….fairly forgettable…on return, I decided to head further north….

PICTON

Driving through Blenheim mid afto, totally unaware there had been an epicentre of an earthquake that had been felt even in the North Island, just hours before….I arrived in Picton, the end of Highway One, and the route to the North Island by ferry….but not for me….

Another perfect erection, 🤪 the tent was sitting happily next to a kids play area, by a soothing stream in the nearby small harbour village of Waikawa…accommodation was at a premium, due to either the after affects of the recent north island cyclone, or mechanical issues with the ferrys….I heard both! But who cares, when you are an experienced camper! 🤷‍♂️😂

The weather turned, it really did….the blue skies and sunshine had been taken for granted for a few weeks now….but storm ahoy. I got soaked going to the local hostelry, and the tent was fighting a battle with the elements through the night….and…..won! ⛈️🌪️And reyt cosy it was too…I even had a siesta on the second day!

Both Waikawa and Picton were very scenic, at the base of the Queen Charlotte Sound….very fjord or Scottish sea loch like, with a frame of mountains, what else!

On the second day, I’d set my alarm for 0615, the plan was to catch the boat ferry to the top end of the Queen Charlotte trail, and ride back to Picton….however, the weather was worse on that second night. I’m surprised the tent didn’t take off, 😳⛈️and at alarm time, the rain was bouncing off the canvas, fortunately waterproof canvas! So another morning socialising in the kitchen was more attractive….

Leaving by 10am - I headed over to the official end of the Queen Charlotte trail at Anakiwa, the weather had improved enough to entice me out on the bike. The plan was to ride approx 30km out then spin back, to experience at least some of the trail…however….firstly, the going was very slow, below 10kph, the CX bike was really out of its depth, I had to carefully navigate around rough ground, and with all the rain it was really muddy in places…..after 75 mins I’d hardly done 15km, but worse I hadn’t fvckin left bloody BUSH! 🤷‍♂️🙄

One must admire how they’ve cut a trail through such dense rain forest, but it’s like riding in a friggin tunnel indefinitely, with occasional glimpses of a tremendous vista….as I’ve stated before, these Kiwis love their bush, Mrs….but it’s not for me….eventually I escaped on some tarmac….and thankfully reached salvation, my car! 🙌

Hypocritically I love the camping now….it gives total freedom and no space for concern on accommodation….so I set off generally towards Nelson, but not fussed where I would end up….as it happened I got to the outskirts by 5pm, checked my app (Rankers Camping) and within 15 mins I had a sea view camping spot! 💕