EXMOOR & THE QUANTOCKS - September 2025

EXMOOR, THE QUANTOCKS & SLIMBRIDGE

Coast From Nr Lynmouth

Dunkery Hill

Lynmouth

Sunday 28th September
Had just 4 nights free, so Exmoor was quite a slog to get to for such a short time...but weather wise it was far better than the forecast for Wales or the Lakes. I drove it without stopping, 4.5 hours..to ensure I got there before it was dark, in fact I arrived just before sunset, and found a cracking night stop at the top of the super steep Porlock Hill. The views along the coast and over the moors were outstanding, but the best was after a night's nap....


Monday 29th September
An advantage of the days closing in, is that sunrise is at a reasonable hour (about 7am)..and I awoke to the most glorious sunrise, see photos. Using a combo of ChatGPT (for a general itinerary) and Komoot (for specific routes) I drove west along the coast to Lynmouth (and  Linton)...a very pretty setting in between the coastal cliffs and estuary of the Lyn, and the location of a tragic flash flood in the 50's that claimed several lives. 

The Komoot route was a affectively a figure of eight, with Lynmouth  being the crossover point. Firstly it took me up the river valley, via Watersmeet, then climbed up and over to the cliffs looking over the coast.. Back down into Lynmouth, where I sat for a while looking out across the Bristol Channel over to Wales. The footpath up to Linton was a challenge, at times it was so steep my new trail shoes were slipping! Now heading west, towards apparently one of the hotspots, the Valley of the Rocks. A dry valley (glacial reasons) with a border of sandstone edges, rather tor like....certainly had character, but relative to how I've been rather spoilt in more mountainous national parks this year! 

 The full hike was 17km, no poles and with my new HOKA trail shoes, I continued my progress on walk / jog...in fact this was the most I had done the jog part since I started....and so far so good! 🤞 All in all a good day out, quite diverse and very enjoyable.
On completion and after a short chill, I decided to explore the interior of Exmoor and eventually find a place for the night....heading through Simonsbath and Exford I generally was not that impressed. I guess the name Exmoor is a giveaway, as swathes of the vista were the endless homogeneous bleak heather terrain. It does nothing for me, although later I came across more I guess cultivated areas...much like the contrast of the White and Dark Peak District.

 The plan for tomorrow was a decent gravel bike ride including the highest peak of Dunkery Hill, but the enthusiasm for biking 3 hours in this sort of terrain did not excite....I'd learnt that lesson earlier in the year on my Yorkshire tour....also I noticed a road practically went over Dunkerry Hill, so off I set. I arrived just prior to sunset, and decided to walk to to the summit just a mile away at the most. 
The sunset was amazing, as was the after glow of varying pinks lighting up the high cirrus....see the photos. Encountered a farmer's daughter who was exercising about 15 springer spaniels..Lovely dogs, under different circumstances I would've pinched a couple!
I decided to stay the night on the shoulder of the summit, and pleased I did....

Tuesday 30th September
Because again, I was welcomed by an amazing sunrise, and being at the highest point in the National Park, I had tremendous views...including the valleys which were engrossed in lowland mist....

 The original plan was to cycle this area, but as stated before, the heather vistas simply do nothing for me...so I decided to travel the 30 mins back north east to the Quantocks....but what a disaster of a morning:

Firstly there was a diversion sign for a rural road closure...the diversion made the journey over 90 minutes and later learnt it had been totally unnecessary. Looking later on my Google Maps timeline, I'd basically done a "sausage loop", and arrived back at the same place! I decided to find my own detour but down many tiny high hedged lanes, and at one point several "warrior" pickups with hunting types in them came the opposite way...rather a squeeze. I arrived in the village for the start of my ride, only to discover I'd left my Garmin in Sheffield (after turning the van inside out), so clear navigation was out....to then discover that the actual start point of the route was a mile away....
Not to worry I thought, only a mile I can easily cycle there...so off I went with Komoot on audio in my back pocket...to immediately confront a 25% gradient, that went on and on and on...to the route...one mile of almost impossible climbing (for my fitness) with zig zagging at points just to keep the wheels rolling.
I made the top without stopping, but immediately Komoot was getting confused about directions...telling me I'm off course, turn left, turn right...I cycled not 800m more (clocking an elevated super van spot) and gave up, my enthusiasm was empty!
Returning (at 70kmh) to the van, I took a deep breath and told myself to reset.

I drove back up the hill, and straight to that spot where I'd quit the bike ride, got my chair out with book and the rest of the weekend's Times...made a cuppa, and sat in a glorious autumn sun trap for 3 hours or so. Unlike me, but for once, this inactivity was throughly enjoyable! As the sun started to drop, it looked like another stunning sunset...so I decided to hike off into the moors to a higher point! And it was really worthwhile, both the sunset and also meeting another bunch of springer spaniels. Four this time, stunning black, liver and white markings...the owner did suggest I should have (at least) one with my (UK) lifestyle....but it's the restriction on travel further afield that I still hanker for....?

Anyway, muts aside, I returned to the van, by which time it was practically dark and settled down for the night reading and catching some Champions League footy with a temperature boost from my heater! Blissful van life!!

Wednesday 1st October
Back on the bike, determined to find out what the Quantocks had to offer, and is there a better way? Komoot navigation again on phone in back pocket, actually worked quite well, just a few double checks....

 Became very impressed with the varied terrain, from broad moorland gravel tracks to woodland single gnarly ups and downs...glades galore etc. Perfect for gravel riding...unfortunately the route was a kind of figure of eight with the van in the middle....after near 2 hours I passed it for the second time with approx one more 10km loop to complete, in a new area...but the temptation to stop and put the kettle on was too much...Id done 2 hours and it was quite tough in places...anyhow after sorting myself and the bike back on the rack I regretted not continuing....next time then, if I ever return to this area....but where to next?

I planned to be back in Sheffield for Thursday teatime, and the continuous 4.5 hour drive was a little too much...so looked for somewhere to take a chunk out of the return journey.. I considered the Glastonbury area, but whilst checking the map I noticed Slimbridge. The original Peter Scott wildfowl centre, I had visited once before, about 55 years ago! So, Google Map was set to some parking spot (from Park4Night) just 15 minutes from Slimbridge. Driving through a surprisingly busy Taunton rush hour, 90 mins later I arrived. The spot was excellent, with an elevated view over the Cotswolds and the Severn estuary with Wales in the distance, and another spectacular sunset. But at first ballsy,  I then hesitated to stay there, as there were no overnight parking signs and what looked like a fake CCTV camera, or was it? Anyhow I checked the app again, and found a pretty ideal one not 8 mins away, a small remote carpark for Cam Peak, near Dursley - not so ballsy after all Ainsworth?!

 

Thursday 2nd October 

First thing I decided to do my walk jogging effort...first a short sharp one up Cam Peak, with decent views, but soon travelled the 15 mins to Slimbridge. 

 Bit disappointing tbh, very zoo like....open various geographical enclosures / ponds with mainly wildfowl, I assume clipped. A large closed aviary with avocet, red shank, godwit, sandpiper etc - really unsure about these....and admittedly some stunning varieties of flamingo. 

There were "wild" hides overlooking lagoons and marsh of the Severn with flocks of wigeon and grey lag geese amongst others...but after 2 hours I'd seen enough and headed back norf.  With a Sale detour to collect the very last Mallorcan artefacts from Sally...a very nice drive over the Peaks via Winnats and home again, but until when?

So, was a chunk of 5 hours worth the trip to Exmoor? In fairness under normal situations I would have probably stayed and explored for at least 2 weeks, but also venturing around Cornwall and even the Dorset Jurassic coastline. In this context though NO! What I saw of the interior of Exmoor is lots of that homogeneous heather landscape, very Yorkshire - the coastline though was very nice....and the Quantocks certainly offered more diversity....but you'll never beat the character of Snowdonia,  the Lakes and Scotland....I'm just too spoilt!

STAFFORDSHIRE PEAKS - August 2025

South West Peak District (Staffs, bit of Cheshire!)

Three Shires Bridge

Dragon's Back

Lud's Church

Monday 18th August 
Had a chance of a few days away, and as the weather locally was reasonable, there was no need to travel far. The Staffordshire part of the Peak District is less visited, certainly by me, so late on the Monday afternoon I headed across to the south west Peaks. I'd planned a rough itinerary (thanks ChatGPT), so the first challenge was to be a route based at the Roaches. Similar to Stanage Edge but possibly a little more character. I found a spot with a great vista across the valley, and settled down for the night....on Roaches Road!

Tuesday 19th August 
I pinched a route off Komoot, which was an ambitious 17k, ambitious because I was having issues with my right ankle, but Rob, my trusty physio had told me I'd be fine, and I took two hiking poles though to be safe! Irrespective of supposedly being cautious, almost immediately I took a scrambling route up on to the Roaches, 

 

instead of the more sensible line below the edge! Anyway, a very pleasant walk it was, with great views and a good day...the next stage was something called Lud's Church, a gorge along a fault line causing a massive landslip...and then dropped down along the river on the Dane Valley Way, very purdy. The two poles were out now, thought I was overdoing it, but arrived back at the van OK, and no major reaction, so far...

Wednesday 20th August
Staying a 2nd night on Roach Rd, I wasn't sure where to go after, the plan was a bike day, in order to rest the ankle....eventually I ended up in Macclesfield Forest alongside Ridgegate Reservoir, for some reason I'd lost my enthusiasm, but persuaded myself to pick a Komoot 8km walk on a gorgeous late afternoon, not all through the forest, plenty of raised viewpoints. 

 

 I took my book, and initially had a rule to read a couple of chapters per bench I encountered! Pleased I did the walk, had good views over the Cheshire plain to the west including Jodrell Bank, and the Peaks to the east....returning with a much more positive mind.

Thursday 21st August
Taking a mountain biking route off Komoot, started with some enthusiasm, but eventually lost it...probably when I realised I was heading to scale the Cat & Fiddle pass...I knew from my road cycling days that this area is really tough and gnarly...I'm simply nothing like as fit as I used to be

but also although there was plenty of off road, substantial sections were not for a gravel bike. 

 Eventually I cut short the off road, but it was still a slow and arduous route back. A highlight though was the Three Shires Bridge on the river Dane, nice little waterfalls. Anyway pleased to get back...then set off to the Longnor area to hike the Dragon's Back tomorrow.
Finding a place to stay the night was a challenge, I drove too much looking for a spot, and when I did a lady farmer had a polite word (this was after awaiting 180 cows to walk a lane to their barn)...rather belatedly I decided to go to the local pub in Longnor, The Cheshire Cheese....I had a couple of pints and a meal (sat with guy from Nottingham) and stayed the night in the pub carpark, after asking permission, but not ideal.

 

Roaches

 Friday 22nd August

I'd hiked Parkhouse and Chrome Hill aka The Dragon's Back before...but chose to do a tight loop, affectively an out and back....where from was an issue though?!  Eventually I started from Earl Sterndale, after being "scolded" by a farmer (probably the son of the woman yesterday) from another closer spot...apparently on "his land".

Actually the route from Earl Sterndale was perfect, I initially was accompanied by a Belgium guy whose wife was doing a textiles course in Macclesfield.  By early afternoon I was back at the van, as planned and heading back to Sheffield to check how things were....😭🙈😭

 

 

Notes from this trip:
1. Leisure battery was charging fast but dying fast too, so on return I got a double gel set of batteries installed, to be tested, but should be fine for my use, especially the heater as the nights draw in...
2. Hosepipe ban in Yorkshire so didn't fill my van tank, but will ignore that next time...I used my plastic jerry can, but it soon ran out. I ended up driving out of my way to Parsley Hay for a standpipe (and a coffee and cake) using the Location app
3. Macclesfield Forest: no big deal, but although remote, there were occasional pipping horns,  I assume from unhappy locals...I guess with nothing better to do, first time I'd encountered this anti van NIMBY attitude.
 

WALES - July 2025 - Kites, Waterfalls & Tryfan

Devil's Bridge Waterfalls

Rheidol Valley

Nant-y-Moch Resevoir

X




Wednesday 2nd July - Nanty nr Arian, Kites and Lake Ogwen

What a contrast! I awoke at 6am to an amazing blue sky morning, and sadly drove to another spot for breakie where I knew I had 4G....

Nearby, not on the itinerary were the Devil Bridge (3 bridges on top of each other from differing eras) Waterfalls....a coffee and cake nearby first (really to use the loo) then I entered the turnstile to pay for the pleasure of the walk! I claimed O65 concession and the rather lardy youngish woman warned me that it was a long arduous walk...how long I asked? "As much as 45 mins!!" FFS

I nearly mentioned that I was planning on scrambling the North Ridge on Trefan the next day, but lardy wouldnt have known what I was talking about. Cheeky mare!

The falls were quite impressive...but next stop Nanty Yr Arian. 2pm was the Kite feeding time, and unknown to me this area was also a mountain biking centre, so I had 90 mins to at last take the gravel bike out...cracking area for gravel too, and eventually ended up very close to where Id stayed over the previous night...I went down one of the red routes on the way back, which was easily doable on the bike, but didn't have time to conduct further exploration.

There was still 30 mins until feeding time, but as I approached the centre, the Kites clearly knew their freebies were imminent....scores and scores of them in air and covering some of the Pines. With a quick spin around, I walked down to the viewing spot and took a front seat on the ground! It really was impressive, whilst the woman was there, they were diving and scooping, but once she left a lot of them landed, together with the bloody seagulls! Defo worth the visit, and will probably return, if my fading cycling doesn't completely disappear? 🤷‍♂️
I did clock some good looking off grid places above the centre too.

Now, partially my fault on two fronts...a predicted 2.5 hour drive to Lake Ogwen for Tryfan tomorrow. Firstly I did asked ChatGPT to include both Cader Idris and Trefan....in the future I'd concentrate on one region, there's so much to see.However it took me well over 3.5 hours...why? In Google Maps I entered Ogwen Cottage as the destination, which does exist where I wanted....but I was questioning why I was driving so far east, even into England, passed Wrexham and Chester....then saying I was only a mile from my destination in Holliwell, NE Wales not far from the Wirral! I realised immediately I'd gone to the incorrect Ogwen Cottage, and really missed out on what should've been an excellent cross country route. Anyway, I arrived eventually at Lake Ogwen, lots of space on the layby, and overnight staying OK, albeit 80 minutes later than in shouldve been! Top spot.....

Thursday 3rd July - Trefan and the North Ridge (Bochlwyd Horseshoe)

No signal again, so couldn't check the forecast, although the chat in the layby was that it was going to be a good day. However, that was the least of my worries, my ankle and knee were worrying me. This was going to be a huge rocky scramble day, and didn't want to get to a stage where I could hardly walk! Also I admit I had some apprehension re the North Ridge and the grade 1 scramble...there was no single obvious route, it was a free for all...where one route could be easy, but the adjacent one could be bordering a grade 2.

As it happened I met a rather typical Aussie, Russ from Perth and very early on a couple from Manchester - the guy had done Trefan numerous times, so we trusted him!

Generally it was really good, and like other things, after a while you get more confident and smoother. There was one section that was rather sketch though, a rope would have been useful! We stopped for photos at the Cannon, although I bottled it, not sure why...and as for Adam and Eve (two rock pillars on the summit) I didn't even consider climbing up one, never mind skipping across them!

Cracking scramble though, almost from the very start to the top...the mountain is considered "the mountain" in Snowdonia....and the dramatic vertiginous rock scenery underlined that....the rocky nature didn't stop on the tops either...another ridge, Bristly, a grade 1/2 scramble was up to the next peak, although I went solo just before this....I'd had enough of head down scrambling and wanted to soak in the views (that was my excuse 😉)...although I stepped into the ridge for the last 1/3 of the ridge....solo now I headed to the interesting Castles in the Wind rock morphology, chatting and talking to two local guys who were descending the exact same way as me, the Y Gribin Ridge....two routes down this, a relatively easy path to the left of the ridge, or right over the spine of the ridge, right on the precipitous drop below! I followed the boys on the latter!

Grade 1 again, but descending can be harder...anyway once complete I was scrambled out for the day. I let the boys go, and sat for 15 mins looking at the excellent views, eyeing the full route Id done....and the forecast was spot on, very warm and sunny.

Soon I passed the tarn Bochlwyd, with youths cooling down in the waters....but soon it was my turn, once back at the layby, straight into Lake Ogwen....very refreshing!

I sat for ages with a guy who had been rock climbing, but had an almost identical running and cycling background to me....he also had identical attitudes...it became funny, reminded me of Alan Partridge meeting his nemesis, and trying to out do each other on all they agreed. He included slagging off modern runners getting excited about doing an 18min 10k; ultra runners and triathletes piss poor quality and thinking they are bloody Olympians; deluded cyclists; strava warriors who have never raced, "finisher"T shirts, "turn up" medals etc etc The only mistake is not swapping numbers as he was looking to move to Ruthin from Wiltshire....although Id never rock climb, not now! Top geezer! 

So that was the amazing Tryfan, I'll definitely be back, but explore the regions more intensively, so much to do and see!

And all in all, 5 great nights, ticking all my boxes from nature to challenging mountains, with stunning river valleys but only scratching the surface, the start of a Walesfest!

This time, rather than use Google Maps, I got my road atlas out and headed towards Mold and Ruthin via Betswy Coed....via Park4Night I parked on the edge of Ruthin with views of the castle.

I considered a light hike in the Clwydian Range on the Friday, but decided to head home. My right leg gremlins had survived Tryfan, in fact bizarrely I never felt the knee issue, but thought best now to fully rest with a frustrating two weeks rest.

 

WALES - June 2025 - Cader Idris & Nice Chicks No Beaver

 Monday 30th June - Cader Idris

Wales at last! Of course I've been to Wales before, but often I've considered there is so much to explore in Wales, and so much diversity. Setting off on the previous evening, I stayed barely 15 minutes from the planned start of the climb up Cader Idris at Minffordd- on the hoof fairly late in the morning, as the forecast was better later in the day. 

 

Some sea fog early on, but it cleared and it was very humid...the first main stop was Lake Cau (tarn) then onwards to the summit of Cader Idris....steady climbing, no scrambling as such...but impressive panorama on the top, and great views of fighter jets training. 

 Extended the walk to Mynnd Moel summit then a rather gnarly descent, great views (see the stile photos) and after man built rock steps all the way down, which was a godsend because my lower quad upper knee was complaining, aswell as my right ankle...these have been slowly worsening for a while. A dip in the river at the car park...then I set off looking for a spot for the night....in prep for a "nature day".

Via Towyn on the coast, then Aberdovey...eventually I headed slightly inland along the Dovey Valley to Machynlleth. Struggled to find an off grid spot, so decided to park rather hidden on a No Overnight Camping layby, with great views of the Dovey. What's the worst that can happen?

 

 

 Cader Idris                                                                                   River Dovey nr Machynlleth 

 

Tuesday 1st July -  Nice Chicks but no Beaver

First stop, a walk along the gorgeous River Dovey at Machynlleth- Llollo Williams of Springwatch produced an excellent 4 Welsh valley series including the Dovey. And apparently there is a single beaver on the stretch I walked....no sign though. I spoke to 3 locals, one of which knew the exact spot (under the new bridge) but none of them had ever seen it in all the years that had lived locally! And dusk or very early were the best times, not 10am in the morning! A colony of sand Martins though were nice plus a solitary goosander. 

 

 More guaranteed were the Ospreys with 3 fledglings, just 20 mins down the valley...very nice and clear to see from the observation tower, telescopes and screens provided.

Next door was a RSPB reserve but closed on Tuesdays and finally the only Welsh nature heritage site near Borth....mainly dunes, estuary and beach but £10 to park on the beach, so I headed off towards my next stop (BTW all based on a ChatGPT itinerary).

I popped into Aberystwyth for a short time (I don't do towns) via Lidl (coconut Greek yoghurt! ) and although it was on my itinerary for the next day, I thought I had time to see the Red Kite feeding at Nanty yr Arian. Arriving at 2.30pm, it had actually just finished.

However what was on my itinerary was an overnight stay in the Upper Rheidol valley. Several dams had filled the valley with reservoirs and the target was the Nanty Y Moch Reservoir...very remote, with a choice of places to stay remotely, but no phone signal! As I bedded down, the hill mist rolled in right down to the resevoir.